D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. on lips created in a Lucian Freud style via IA – Background MidJourney / Emmanuelle Varron, bottle ©D’Orsay and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 D’Orsay is a perfume institution in France. Created in the 1830s (nearly two centuries ago!) by Count Alfred d’Orsay, who was the Paris Beaux-Arts director, the brand has lived through the decades. First of all, thanks to its founder who composed several perfumes in homage to Lady Marguerite de Blessington, the love of his life. D’Orsay has had different owners during the 20th century, experiencing a great boom after the 1st World War: a boutique on Boulevard des Italiens (near the Opéra Garnier), another on Rue de la Paix (a stone’s throw from the Place Vendôme) and on the New York City’s 5th Avenue. There were many perfumes launched but also… shampoos, creams and toothpastes. In 1936, Jacques Guérin succeeded his mother and took over the management of the brand, actively participating in its development until his departure in 1982, which marked a pause. Despite its numerous “reference” fragrances (Chevalier d’Orsay, Mystère, Tilleul, Le Dandy, Etiquette Bleue, Want, Arôme 3, etc.), the house had to be revived several times before regaining center stage.

1928 D’Orsay Dandy, 1946 Intoxication and 1934 Eau de Cologne ads – ©DR, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

It was through its acquisition by Amélie Huynh 2017 that it was positioned strategically in the perfumery market, distributed in several multi-brand “niche” shops and department stores corners spread across Europe, Asia and the Middle East and its own boutiques, one in Paris and the other in Tokyo. Since 2018, D’Orsay has regularly released new creations in a collection entitled “Portraits Équivoques” (Equivocal Portraits) while rebooting with its past (D’Orsay Tilleul, created in 1912, then reinterpreted in 2008 by Olivia Giacobetti and since 2018 called Vouloir être ailleurs. C.G.). One of the “new” D’Orsay unique initiatives is to choose perfume names in French based on the different feelings that love can evoke, followed by two letters that can be initials or hide mysterious words. All fragrances are keen to be shared between lovers, voluntarily gender neutral. For the record, foreign customers, not necessarily comfortable with the French language, communicate exclusively on these two letters to designate the perfumes.

Amélie Huynhin D’Orsay owner and Art Director and Dominique Ropion, IFF Master Perfumer – ©D’Orsay and IFF, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Since 2018, Amélie Huynh has worked with many great perfumers: Fanny Bal, Nicolas Beaulieu, Anne-Sophie Béhagel, Amélie Bourgeois, Mark Buxton, Karine Chevalier, Bertrand Duchaufour, Caroline Dumur, Sidonie Lancesseur, Vincent Ricord and has just released the 15th perfume in its catalog with Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion, (who needs no introduction), D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. As a flower magician ( among  his masterpieces are Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Portrait of a Lady, Fleur de Cassie, Caron Aimez-Moi, Givenchy L’Interdit, Les Bains Guerbois Purple Night, Burberry London, Olfactive Studio Iris Shot , Rose Shot and Violet Shot, Thierry Mugler Alien), it was logical that the first “white flowers” in the collection should be his work.

D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. Dominique Ropion’s quote – IA background ©MidJourney / Emmanuelle Varron, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. first seconds are highly powdery and musky, reminding me of the blurred and romantic aspect specific to Sarah Moon’s photographs. The iris is featured here, as a reminder of the delicate fragrance that accompanies the lipsticks of yesteryear. I am immersed in a cloud of softness, enveloping, full of shyness. This olfactory torpor reveals its contours when you perceive a slight peppery note emerging after a few minutes. The iris warms up on contact with the ambrette, offering a more sensual aspect. It is in this balance that D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. lands, as soft and delicate as a suede shirt you would wear on a bare skin. Depending on the weather, or the mood of the day, the jasmine note unfolds with more or less force; on me, it often remains quite discreet, leaving the spotlight to the iris which takes a true pleasure in undulating its sophisticated swirls. After an hour, patchouli, Ambroxan® and Ambermor® raise the temperature by intensifying the animalic, almost wild facet composed by Dominique Ropion. The lips of the lovers, who only observed each other at first are now sealed in a languorous kiss.

D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres translated from French means On Your Lips © D’Orsay

D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. is an intimate skin fragrance. Intimate by its relative discretion when worn, barely revealed by the floral bouquet composed of the jasmine accord and the double dose of iris. A skin perfume that reveals the subtle accord of raw materials, then raises the temperature of those who wear it. It is also a perfume that is genderless and should be shared with a loved one by delicately playing on the nuances of each other’s skin. A  fragrance of the first moments, often shy, which lets itself be won over by the warmth of the other, like a game of olfactory caresses that you don’t want to stop.

Notes: pink pepper extract CO2 LMR, ambrette absolute LMR, jasmine accord, iris concrete LMR, iris resinoid LMR, patchouli essence LMR, Cashmeran®, Ambermor®

Disclaimer: A huge merci to D’Orsay for the 50 ml Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. bottle provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador

D’Orsay Sur Tes lèvres E.Q. 90 ml bottle – ©D’Orsay.

 Thanks to D’Orsay, we have a 90 ml bottle of Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please tell which words you believe are hidden behind the letters E.Q., how you feel about Emmanuelle’s review and where you live. Draw closes 06/03/2023.

D’Orsay Sur Tes Lèvres. E.Q. is available on the brand’s website. Please read more about its creation here

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