Best Fragrances of 2024 an overview Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief and Ermano Picco Editor

For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010), (2011), (2012), (2013), (2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018), (2019) (2020), (2021)  (2022) and 2023 there is always the question, “was this a good year for perfume”? We assure you despite living in an often challenging and  conflict-ridden year, politically, professionally and for many personally, it was a good year for perfume. There was something for everyone. It was a year of stark contrasts. Skin scents that were soft and subtle and bold statement making fragrances. In 2024, extrait versions of niche best sellers were everywhere. Some brands took the originals, reworked them and brought them to the next level, by adding a hero ingredient that elevated the fragrance. MATIERE PREMIERE founded by Aurelien Guichard was the best collection of Extraits for me, but more later- Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

   

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Trends: Immersive and multi-sensorial events, featuring fragrance linked with the arts. One example, The Premio Aromata awards founded by Laura Amato and held in Rome was dedicated to the connection between literature and perfume.  –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief @aromata2024

Worst Trends: TOO MANY perfumes. I read on one online database that over 2000 fragrances were released in 2024. I believe that is underrepresenting what actually was launched. Some new companies released 8-9 at a time. Where are they going to be sold? There may be some gems among them, but too much clutter -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Creative Director: Alessandro Brun of Masque Milano and Moe Khalaf of Kajal Perfumes Paris

Photo courtesy of Masque Milano

 Alessandro Brun of Masque Milano: The visionary creative director of Masque Milano, stands as the epitome of excellence in 2024. Renowned for his unwavering passion for quality and craftsmanship, Brun championed the philosophy of “slow perfumery,” meticulously guiding the creation of fragrances that resonate deeply with emotion and artistry. This year, his leadership brought us three extraordinary additions to the Le Donne di Masque line, Catherine (Caroline Dumur), Diana (Vanina Muracciole), and Vaiana (Mackenzie Reilly), along with the breathtaking Alcove in the Emerald Collection. Composed by Karine Chevallier, Alcove is a masterful ode to Mysore sandalwood, its profound beauty capable of moving the heart. Brun’s untimely passing in 2024 leaves a void in the perfume world, yet his legacy of artistic dedication and olfactory excellence will continue to inspire and enchant perfume lovers for generations to come. – Ermano Picco, Editor  @masquemilano @milanofragranze @gliemems

 

Photo courtesy of Kajal

Moe Khalaf of Kajal: Moe Khalaf celebrated 10 years as the creative director and founder of Kajal in 2024. I first met Moe in 2017 at Esxence and will tell you that I have not met a more humble, kind, respectful and generous man. He is incredibly detailed oriented, from the bottles (which should win best bottles every year) caps, which reflect his love of architectural design and of course in choosing the perfumers and working with them closely so they achieve his vision. Kajal IV was awarded an Art and Olfaction Award, and while Moe was attending the ceremony, with perfumer Kevin Mathys, he sent me a photo of the Golden Pear.  He also allows them space for input as we learned from Patrick Muller’s introduction to Lamar Noir. This year we were treated to Äican, (spoiler alert it is one of my top fragrances of the year), and Lamar Caviar (Mark Buxton). –Michelyn Camen @kajalperfumes

 

photo by Ermano

Best Fragrances of 2024: Best Fragrance you never heard of: Black Fades Ming4
The best fragrance I never heard of was an amazing discovery I made in Pitti Fragranze; The Hong Kong based brand Black Fades that instantly won me with their aesthetic mixing Asian traditional minimalism, and industrial concrete replacing the classic black lacquer. Their offer includes beautifully crafted candles and incense boxes, as well as various eau de parfums that exude a genuine taste of the contemporary Chinese art of perfumery. The epitome of this refinement is Ming4, a woody chypre fragrance where myrrh, incense, and oud swirl around the best chrysanthemum bouquet I have smelled in years. – Ermano Picco @blackfades.co

photo courtesy of Meo Fusciuni Parfums

Best Fragrances Of 2024 Best Perfumer: Meo Fusciuni (Guiseppe Imprezzabile)

A poet, a photographer, a world-traveler, an aromatic alchemist and true olfactive artist, Guiseppe Imprezzabile aka Meo Fusciuni creates liquid emotions for his brand Meo Fusciuni and this year for Astrophil & Stella’s In Extremis. Buio, Last Season and In Extremis couldn’t be more different, yet each are masterpieces that give us glimpses into his soul, and into our own. –Michelyn Camen @meofusciuni

courtesy of Hiram Green

Best Fragrances of 2024 Natural Perfume: Hiram Green Philtre

Drawing inspiration from the legendary love story of Tristan and Isolde, independent natural perfumer Hiram Green unveiled Philtre in 2024, a creation that instantly captivated me with its extraordinary and intricate interpretation of carnation—the most nuanced and unique we have encountered in decades. A true marvel for perfume aficionados, Philtre makes the heart race with its masterful craftsmanship and homage to Caron Bellodgia, the iconic 20th-century carnation masterpiece born from the love story of Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Wanpouille. The fragrance opens with a vibrant, peppery burst, unfolding into a mesmerizingly rich floral and balmy symphony that is nothing short of breathtaking. – Ermano and Michelyn @hiram_green

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Natural Perfumer 2024: Award-winning Hiram Green first won our Best Natural Perfumer award in 2014 (he has appeared many times since) and here Hiram is ten years later. This year Tryst, the stunning honeyed orange blossom that drips with seduction and Philtre floored us –Michelyn and Ermano @hiram_green

 

Maiada El Khalifa photo Ermano©

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Discovery: Tayshaba and Badar Parfums

Tayshaba emerges as 2024’s most thrilling discovery in artistic perfumery, blending French craftsmanship with a deep homage to Sudanese heritage. Founded by the visionary Maiada El Khalifa, the brand seamlessly bridges cultures, creating fragrances that are as evocative as they are innovative. Under the guidance of renowned perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, El Khalifa honed her craft, weaving Sudanese traditions and raw materials into French olfactory precision. The result is a collection that feels entirely fresh yet deeply rooted in history, celebrating Sudan’s rich aromatic legacy—think smoky incense, desert blooms, and warm spices—through a refined, modern lens. Mrs. El Khalifa definitely delivers an exhilarating new voice in perfumery, expanding the map of cultural storytelling and artistry in scent creation. – Ermano Picco @tayshaba.paris

Badar Parfums: Badar Parfums is a new French house that combines the rich history of French haute perfumery with the complexity of Arabic perfumery. The owner chose to launch two perfumes in his inaugural collection, Estelle by Margaux Le Paih GUERIN and Sinai composed by Amelie Bourgeois. Badar Parfums should be on your radar, and is currently not sold in the USA. We hope that changes soon. -Michelyn Camen @badarparfums

photo by Tanguy Sergheraert

Best Fragrances of 2024 Rising Star: Margaux Le Paih GUERIN of Flair Paris

So young and so talented, Margaux paints, draws and designs clothing as well as fragrances. Since her young perfumer series article in June, Margaux Le Paih GUERIN has added 15 more perfumes including Rouge Smoking Extrait from BDK Parfums (in collaboration with colleague Amelie Bourgeois), 7 for SORA DORA, Lhasa Rose 1924 for HIMA JOMO (in collaboration with Amelie Bourgeois) and numerous exhibitions including Obvious rose for Le Spectre de La Rose w/ Florian Mermin and Monde Sensibles MIP GRASSE. In 2024, Margaux signed Sora Dora Red the exclusive to Jovoy and the beautiful Estelle for Badar @margaux.le.paih. guerin @flair.paris

Best Fragrances of 2024 MVPP (Most Valuable Perfume Person): Pia Long and Frederic Malle

Art&Olfaction 2024 award winner Pia Long is a cornerstone of the perfume community, celebrated for her expertise, generosity, and commitment to education. As a skilled perfumer and IFRA member, she dedicates significant effort to debunking myths surrounding perfumery in general, and especially on IFRA regulations, ensuring transparency in an often-misunderstood industry. Through her active presence on social media, Pia provides invaluable insights into perfume formulation and chemistry, breaking down complex topics for enthusiasts and professionals alike. Her passion for sharing knowledge is matched by her ability to foster informed discussions, empowering the community with accurate information and dispelling misinformation. Pia’s contributions not only elevate the understanding of perfumery as an art and science but also inspire others to approach the craft with integrity and curiosity. – Ermano Picco @perfumer.pia

photo via FredericMalle.com

Frederic Malle

Pia is indeed a cornerstone of the perfume community and deserving of this honor. My MVPP is Frederic Malle who left his eponymous brand in June this year nearly 24 years after he launched Editions de Parfums. Before him, the names of perfumers were never known to the public. This is a quote former Contributor Tim Girvin included in his article about Malle. When I “came up with the term ‘Editeur de Parfums’ ten years ago I was determined to liberate perfumers from the kinds of restraints often imposed by marketers and focus groups. I work as an editor works with writers. I give these ‘fragrance authors’ complete freedom to explore and express their ideas.” We owe Monsieur Malle quite a debt. –Michelyn Camen

Best Fragrances Of 2024: Best Concept: Fragrance Alliance Network

I first learned about the Fragrance Alliance Network, founded by Gustavo Romero, through brand ambassador Hernando Courtright. From what I’ve seen, there’s nothing quite like it in NYC or even across the US. Opportunities to learn about perfume are surprisingly limited, but this network uniquely fills that gap. You can attend online classes or if you are in NYC special events. If you’ve ever been curious about perfume-making, the network offers classes where you can explore blending scents or delve into the science behind creating fragrances. These classes are great for anyone who is interested in fragrance- from beginners testing their creativity to enthusiasts expanding their expertise including navigating and understanding regulations. What makes the Fragrance Alliance Network stand out for me, is that it merges education with collaboration. It’s a space where fragrance lovers and industry professionals come together, sharing ideas and learning from one another, while helping brands and individuals turn their creative visions into reality. – Michelyn Camen @fragrancalliancenetwork

 American Legends by Michael Edwards photo Ermano

Best Fragrances of 2024: Best (fragrance) Book: American Legends – The evolution of American fragrances

Michael Edwards’ American Legends is undoubtedly the standout perfume book of 2024, a masterful tribute to the pioneers who shaped the American fragrance industry. Taking nearly five years to complete, this meticulously researched, and elegantly written work reflects Edwards’ unparalleled dedication to his craft. Known as the “Fragrance Bible” creator, and the Perfume Experts Expert Edwards delves deep into the stories of iconic figures, with a particularly heartfelt admiration for Estée Lauder, whose groundbreaking vision revolutionized modern perfumery. Through vivid storytelling and rare insights, Edwards explores Lauder’s transformative impact, celebrating her as a trailblazer who made luxury fragrances accessible while maintaining an uncompromising standard of quality. American Legends is enriched by stunning imagery and Edwards’ profound understanding of the art and business of fragrance. A true homage to the American perfume heritage, this book is essential reading for anyone who cherishes the artistry and history of scent. – Ermano and Michelyn @michael_edwards_official @fragrancesoftheworld

Hernando Courtright photo courtesy of Hernando

Best Fragrances of 2024 Hardest Working Person in Perfume: Hernando Courtright of ÇaFleureBon

Sr. Contributor Hernando Patrick Courtright has been the New York City brand ambassador since we began in 2010. He has traveled the five boroughs by foot, subway and bus, spending hours finding the best scents in this city. Hernando attends nearly every industry event, and trade shows, handing out cards and chatting up complete strangers about what we do. Recently he was in Bermuda (on his anniversary no less) to meet Isabelle Ramsay Brackstone of Lili-Bermuda and Los Angeles and searching out new and exciting fragrance boutiques. Thank you, H, for your hard work, team spirit, and fantastic writing. I don’t tell you often enough how much you mean to me and to ÇaFleureBon. – Michelyn Camen @courtrightmgmt

photo by DSH Perfumes

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Home Fragrance: DSH Perfumes HOME LOVE

Award-Winning perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes, is known for her wide range of artistic perfumes and Heirloom Elixir Limited Editions, but not for candles or home fragrance…until recently. This autumn, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz invoked her olfactive magic to create a new collection of soy and beeswax candles and room / linen sprays bringing the same level of sophistication, elegance, and materials to her HOME LOVE fragrances as her award-winning perfumes.  And, not only are the fragrances gorgeous on their own, you can mix and ‘layer’ the fragrances to create your own unique atmospheres. One of the favorite pairings at Dawn’s studio is Baies & Zebra Wood with Bed of Roses for a luxuriously lush woody floral, but my favorite pairing is Plumeria Lei and ABEX series: Oranges which creates a sunny, uplifting tropical escape. Burn time 30 hours, 30 grams and $30, really !-Michelyn Camen @dshperfumes

Most Disappointing Perfume: It’s a category. I haven’t seen so many perfumes marketed as “Smells Like” since the 1980s. They are back and there is even a “brand” named Smells-A-Like. Don’t be duped-Michelyn Camen

photo via Miller Highlife

You can’t make this up award fragrances of 2024

Miller Highlife recently released its own perfume, Bar-fume that “captures every familiar dive bar scent, from the satisfying crack of a freshly opened beer to the comforting savory taste of classic bar snacks.” Although I haven’t been to a dive bar in years, I remember the smell quite differently, not like cedarwood, patchouli and champaca, but like BARF-ume. (I was given a sample and I don’t drink beer, so I am not the target customer in all fairness) P.S. Walk of shame not included-Michelyn Camen

photo via Cartier website

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Designer Fragrance: Cartier La Panthère Elixir

Cartier La Panthère Elixir redefines the designer fragrance category with its striking complexity and artistry, elevating it to near-niche territory. Perfumer Mathilde Laurent drew inspiration from the mysterious allure of the panther, crafting an opulent elixir that exudes strength, sensuality, and elegance. Through a meticulous creative process, Laurent enriched the iconic chypre-floral DNA of La Panthère with velvety jasmine, intensified musky facets, and a captivating dark amber accord, resulting in a fragrance both bold and hypnotic. The packaging has also received a luxurious upgrade, with a redesigned faceted bottle that mimics the feline’s sculpted grace, enhanced by gold accents symbolizing its untamed spirit. This artistic synergy of scent and design solidifies La Panthère Elixir as the pinnacle of designer perfumery in 2024, and the price is less than $200 USD. – Ermano Picco @cartier @mathilde.laurent

photo via website

Best Fragrances of 2024: Best Celebrity fragrance RS No.9: “A scent that evokes London’s Soho in 1962: a throbbing metropolis bustling with excitement as a new cultural era emerged; a time of discovery and freedom, when anything could — and did — happen, and the year The Rolling Stones played their first gig at the Marquee Club.  999 bottles were available for a short time only, for $99.99 and alas, “You can’t always get what you want, ” as R.S.9 sold out-Michelyn Camen

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Perfume You Want to Drink Or Eat: Rosy & Earnest Vanilla Rhum Royal and  Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur Gourmandises collection:

Rosy & Earnest Vanilla Rhum Royal is a fragrance so delectably rich it feels almost edible. Its luscious blend of creamy vanilla and boozy notes creates an intoxicatingly sweet and indulgent aroma, evoking a sense of warmth and nostalgia. For me, it brings back fond memories of my dad, whose Sunday ritual involved savoring a slice of homemade pie dipped in Moscato wine — a guilty pleasure he proudly embraced. Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer captures here that same comforting pleasure, masterfully balancing gourmand sweetness with the sophistication of Moscato grapes floralcy, making it a delicious scent to experience repeatedly. – Ermano Picco @rosyandearnest @nathaliefeisthauer

 

Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur Gourmandises collection: Pavlova, Macaron Bourbon and St. Honore

I agree with Ermano regarding Rosy & Earnest Vanilla Rhum Royal (and Pistachio Delight); they are standouts. I don’t have a middle name but if I did it would be gourmand. Gourmands were everywhere this year. Unfortunately, many smelled like something you would eat at an airport kiosk. The Gourmandises collection by Patricia de Nicolai elevates gourmands into haute Parisian patisserie, olfactive interpretations of iconic deserts –Michelyn Camen @nicolaiparfumeurcreateur

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Fragrances of 2024: Best Fragrance Name: Äican from Kajal

Äican, pronounced “I can” is an Arabic term representing gold that has been purified of all imperfections. A piece can be hidden beneath layers of earth and stone, yet even through the darkness, its radiance is not lessened. Äican embodies the transformative power of optimism and renewal. Each bottle includes positive affirmation cards. It was a year where many of us needed to “radiate love.”  –Michelyn Camen @kajalperfumes

Alex Lee and Alexandra Carlin

Best Fragrances of 2024 Best Buzz: Alex Lee and Alexandra Carlin join IFF and Bertrand Duchaufour has his own brand L’ENTROPISTE Paris

Perfumer Alex Lee leaving Mane 1871 after more than a decade closed with the successful launch of Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Infusion to join IFF. Same for Perfumer Alexandra Carlin leaving Symrise to join IFF as well. – Ermano Picco @alexleeperfumer @alexandracarlinperfumer @artofperfumeryatiff

 

Bertrand Duchaufour courtesy of the perfumer

Although it was hush hush for a few months, it is official. Bertrand Duchaufour who is unarguably one of the world’s most revered perfumers has announced via Instagram he is starting his own brand L’ENTROPISTE Paris. His first fragrance is inspired by Dorian Gray, the amoral character in Oscar Wilde’s only novel “The Picture of Dorian Gray” who never ages (a painting of him in the attic grows old and shows his soul) “indulgent almost addictive gourmand notes with a stark contrasting austerity.” I am glad I was writing this the day I spotted it on Instagram 12/24/2024 @berttrand.duchaufour @lentropiste

via Instagram

Best Fragrances of 2024 Hall of Fame: Alessandro Brun of Masque Milano and Milano Fragranze

Alessandro Brun was much more than a creative director to me he brought a much-needed leadership to artistic perfumery. Not only hands on, but as Ermano wrote in his article dedicated to Alessandro after his passing on February 19, 2024, he saw and anticipated the profound changes niche perfumery was undergoing and was probably the first to speak about “Slow Perfumery”, extending the basic ideas of Slow Food. Taking time, for time is the greatest luxury, pursuing creativity, being transparent, optimizing costs where possible without compromising excellence and artistry.  Alessandro Brun always credited the perfumers who helped him shape his vision and a way of spotting talent like Julien Rasquinet, Luca Maffei, McKenzie Reilly, and Alexander Lee (to name a few). We miss you Alessandro and we ask our readers and viewers to help continue Masque Milano and Milano Fragranze by purchasing.  In that article, (please read it here) I wrote: “There is a saying you die twice, once when they bury you and finally when they stop thinking or saying your name. Alessandro Brun, you will live on for many, many years to come.”

For our Best Fragrances of 2024 Giveaway

Thanks to the generosity of Hiram Green, we have a 50 ml flacon of Hiram Green Philtre for one registered reader in the USA and EU

Thanks to the generosity of Badar Parfums we have a 50 ml bottle of Estelle composed by Margaux for a registered reader in the EU or USA. Let us know what you think of our Best Fragrance of 2024 Part 1. What sparked your interest? Which do you want to win of the two above offered, leave that in your comment. What do you want to try or have tried. Draw closes 12/30/2024

We will be back with our top ten fragrances of 2024 soon, as well as over the next week, Ida, Nicoleta, J Wearescentient, Karl, Rachel K. Ng, Oli Marlow, Danu, Hernando, Sandi., Steven and Olya will award their top ten best fragrances of 2024. There will be MANY DRAWS.

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