BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking Extrait courtesy of the brand

BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking was originally composed by Amelie Bourgeois in 2018, and has become a beloved choice among fans of the BDK collection. In this extrait version (30 percent), she collaborates with her Flair Paris colleague, Margaux Le Paih Guérin, to create something truly special. With extraits all the rage, I decided  to compare and contrast both versions of Rouge Smoking. Thankfully Rouge Smoking Extrait isn’t just a Spinal Tap one louder version but rather takes the original and gives it a spin. This iteration feels like Rouge Smoking has embraced the night, presenting a deep, rich and dark character while still cleverly nodding to the original’s composition. There are moments where the two share a familiar scent and sensation, yet they feel distinctly different. The Flair perfumers are definitely having a well-deserved moment in the spotlight and this is a great example of their skills showing off a love of classic and contemporary French and world perfumery.

Flair Perfumers Margaux Le Paih Guérin and Amelie Bourgeois courtesy of the brand

Deep rich candied dark cherries instantly pops from your skin as Rouge Smoking Extrait begins to shimmer with fresh spices and creamy almond aromas giving it a darkly delicious feel. The original Rouge Smoking treads a more classic territory of fresh citruses melting into a powdery vanilla muskiness, it’s sweeter and brighter too with a beautiful cosy heliotrope softness that wraps around you. The citruses come a later with the Extrait adding a subtle fresh sweetness to the cherry as a dry sensation gives it body. It’s very different to the parfum whose lower feel is velvet like with orange blossom giving it’s a narcotic wink. It’s a flirty come hither, while the Extrait is a much drier powder with a dose of coumarin from tonka bean. It’s matches the velvety warmth but in a more crushed velvety way dusted with lightly smoky resins giving it a darker sensation to wear.

BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking courtesy of the brand

Rouge Smoking always made me think of classic Guerlain perfumes, as if your smelling Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue blurring into one on an old silk scarf, but composed to feel brighter and happy, making it feel more contemporary. There’s something very classic and playful about it that makes its fun and easy to wear. Rouge Smoking Extrait takes that creamy white powdery light and makes its deliciously dark. It’s like it’s slipped into a little sleek black number, powdered itself in dark cherry smoke and is sipping on strong smooth liquor. It’s glows with tonka beans ginger bread warmth rather than the originals orange blossom, feeling darkly sweet and rich as deep oud wood facets take the fore wrapped in a milky smoothness. Rouge Smoking Extrait has a much smoother feel, it’s like a fine dark creamy powdery, like fine sand giving its this silky deep flowing elegance. Rouge Smoking original feel is rougher and velvety letting orange blossom give it its edge. It’s also a lot softer and more abstract whereas the darkness of Rouge Smoking Extrait gives it a much more defined feel. Darker resins smooth out the oud as more rich vanilla facets glimmer through harking back to the original. I get much more cherry too from the extrait, it’s got this dark veil wrapping around it go black cherry. The original Rouge Smoking feels almondy at this mid stage with vanilla giving the sweetness with a slight medicinal violet.

BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking Extrait promo image of milk and cherry courtesy of the brand

The dry down of Rouge Smoking Extrait presents a significantly darker profile compared to the original’s softer, powdery vanilla almond musk which features a dry tonka bean and floral quality, reminiscent of more classic French perfumes. Rouge Smoking Extrait on the other hand feels more contemporary and darker with the oud and boozy rum notes. It is creamier and lactonic, with the vanilla giving more texture as benzoin adds balsamic sweetness that works with the darker rich facets bring out a huge almost smoky muskiness rather than the originals powdery softness. Patchouli introduces a deliciously dark, inky swirl that intertwines with the rum and oud, picking up lots of resins on the way giving it a subtle air of mystery. As saffron adds a sleek suede stream sensation The cherry note of Rouge Smoking Extrait feels much deeper too, a black cherry musk formed by incense smoke from the oud and labdanum, making it rich and intriguing, feeling more of the night than the more playful parfum’s original. The sour stone fruit facets of the Thai oud give a delicious tartness to the black cherry. More woody facets and the cherry richness feels like maraschino cherries with its rich syrup poured on it, but that elegant vanilla is still there albeit in a deeper way infused with a smooth white rum, (not the spiced kind but more caramel like). BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking Extrait evokes a different mood.  Rouge Smoking Extrait burns with a darkly daring allure, feeling of the night, with Rouge Smoking feeling more like the light.

BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking Extrait courtesy of the brand

 BDK Rouge Smoking Extrait shares similar elements to the original but is a much deeper take on the composition with a swirl patchouli ink spun through milk with a dark cherry wrapping a smoky soft oud in a sultry silky veil. It’s a “late night out on the town perfume”, ready for the dance floor. A wonderful fragrant collaboration from Amelie Bourgeois and Margaux Le Paih Guérin.

Notes: Red Mandarin essence, Napoleon Cherry, Almond, Indian Pink Peppercorn, Italian Bergamot, Elemi, Milk accord, Tonka Bean, Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Saffron, Thai Oud, Amber woods, Black Vanilla, Martinique rum, Indonesian Patchouli, Siam Benzoin, Indian cypriol, Ambroxan.

Disclosure: A travel size of BDK Parfums Rouge Smoking Extrait was sent to J, his thoughts and nose are his own.

– J Wearescentient, Senior Editor artist & olfactive writer

Please read Margaux Le Paih Guérin Young Perfumer article here

Enjoy my previous reviews on Wood Jasmin & 312 Saint Honore, Karl’s piece on Vanille Leather, Olya’s review on BDK Parfums Gris Charnel.

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