Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise photo courtesy of the brand
“What’s in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;
So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call’d.” ~ Act II, Scene II from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet
Céline Perdriel of Cosmo International courtesy of the perfumer (apped in Black and white) and Creative Director Veronique Le Bihan courtesy of Atelier Materi
Ah – but must a rose be always sweet? Might a rose not play androgynously upon the heartstrings, a rose-in-fancy-dress or en travesti – blurring the boundaries of gender? It was these (often perceived as hackneyed) lines from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet which immediately sprang to mind when I investigated my first spritz of Atelier Materi’s newest release Rose Ardoise. The very name itself – Rose Ardoise – alludes to the queen of flowers in a slate (or slate-grey) setting, much as a jewel might be mounted in a more contemporary and less traditional manner. This new fragrance has successfully surmounted sexism: to my nose, Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise resembles a rose-inflected mineralic leathery chypre. That is certainly a mouthful, no matter how you regard it – and youthful perfumer Céline Perdriel has done a masterful job of rendering rose with such complexity. If one seeks a rosebud in June or a John William Waterhouse pre-Raphaelite portrayal of the blowsy, voluptuously full-blown rose, Rose Ardoise will not prove your rose-of-choice; best to look elsewhere. Floridly ebullient rose fragrances are plentiful and easily found – but an audacious, challenging-to-encapsulate rose is an aromatic rarity, and Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise falls into that select category.
Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise photo courtesy of the brand
It has taken me several samplings to fully understand and appreciate Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise. The primary reason is the presence of an overdose of Ambroxan (according to Atelier Materi). It takes great skill to master this acutely raspy woody amber aromachemical (my classic exception to the rule is Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir, which is one of my all-time favorite perfumes to wear and share) and I find that the handling of Ambroxan directly affects my appreciation of (and desire to wear) a perfume. On paper such as a mouillette, blotter, or tissue – Ambroxan doesn’t seem to read as prominently as it does on my skin. The opening of Atelier Materie Rose Ardoise is a trumpet fanfare of sorts: a rush of intoxicating nutmeg and pink pepper announce themselves with a flourish as they segue into exquisite roses which feel bonded to vetiver and clary sage. This intense alliance tends to overshadow some of rose’s more honeyed aspects, because a potent woody amber presence is immediately apparent. I smell a startling clarity and the mineralic facets immediately; a raw leather accord underpins it all. At this juncture rose assumes second place, and it isn’t until the drydown that one becomes more aware of its dulcet propensities. On my skin, which tends to amplify anything sweet – Rose Ardoise softens appreciably and smells less scratchy than my initial impression.
Tilda Swinton, photographed by Tim Walker for i-D, June 2017. photo Tim Walker
It’s very lovely, singular and wearable: neither masculine nor feminine in character, an alluring fragrance which possesses its own mystery and adventurousness. I found that, on my husband – Rose Ardoise became exceedingly woody, with very little rose, interestingly enough. Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise is a fragrance which is fascinating, and one which should be sampled before purchasing. No single fragrance suits everyone. This particular perfume can prove extremely satisfying when you approach it with patience and an open mind. It’s good to venture off the beaten track from time to time.
Notes: nutmeg, pink pepper (schinus molle), sage, Turkish rosa damascena, rosa centifolia de Grasse, vetiver, leather, Ambroxan
My bottle was a gift from Atelier Materi – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Atelier Materi Rose Ardoise photo courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Atelier Materi, we have a 100 ml bottle of Rose Ardoise for one registered reader in the US and EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Ida’s review, where you live, and if you have a favorite Atelier Materi Perfume. Draw closes 2/19/2022
Available at Atelier Materi website
In the USA please find Atelier Materi at Indigo Perfumery, ZGO Perfumery, Scent Bar
Also Rose Andoise is available at Jovoy Paris and other fine stockists worldwide
Please read Nicoleta’s Review of Santal Blond, Emmanuelle’s review of Narcisse Taiji here Ida’s review of Iris Ebene here, watch Steven’s video best chocolate perfumes of all time which included Cacao Porcelana here. Bois d’Ambrette was included in our highly curated Make it Musk Jovoy box by Cristian here
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