Aether Arts Perfume SHIBARI © Amber Jobin
Blest be the tie that binds. ~ hymn written by John Fawcett, 1782
Aether Arts Perfume perfumer Amber Jobin (two-time Art & Olfaction Awards winner for 2022’s Mayan Chocolate and 2014’s John Frum) is one of those artisans and visual artists who regularly jolt us out of our habitual comfort zone with artistic aplomb. This, in part – is fueled by her extraordinary curiosity and openness, an ongoing pursuit of new experience, and the ability to assume a prismatic perspective while scrutinizing her subject matter. No subject, in itself – is taboo simply because it may appear fanciful, politically or socially astute in its complexity.
public domain wikiart Seiyu Ito bound women (the “father of kinbaku-bi”)
In Aether Arts Perfume SHIBARI, Amber’s latest olfactory exploration – the topic of fascination is the Japanese art of knotting and binding: its aesthetics, customs, rules of engagement and connotations. The word shibari literally means “to tie or bind”: not particularly controversial in itself. Kinbaku-bi, however, translates as “the beauty of tight binding”. Whether it be an erotic experience, purely artistic from a visual viewpoint, sadomasochistic, a highly-regulated form of discipline (as in kata, form relating to the martial arts), deeply meditational and liberating, a study in supreme trust and intimacy, or any combination of the afore-mentioned is entirely up to the participants and observers. That which initially involved the restraint of prisoners of war in feudal Japan has spread its wings and infiltrated other countries and cultures – primarily as an additional erotic art form and loveplay.
Aether Arts Perfume SHIBARI © Amber Jobin
Like the true artist she is, Amber Jobin has chosen to represent that which is beautiful and compelling about her subject matter – to reflect its various exotic elements through aromatic interpretation. She is, after all – a storyteller, something I deeply appreciate. SHIBARI opens with a tender nosegay of quintessentially Japanese peony, a rich plum accord, and mimosa (yes! It grows in Japan as well as the Mediterranean!). I love this commencement, and wish that the florals lingered awhile longer; I find them soothing, reassuring, so delicate, aesthetically pleasing. It feels emblematic of a specific sort of Japanese beauty.
plum blossoms and cranes by Ito Jakuchu (public domain)
Shogatsu ya/ Mura no kosumi no/ Ume no hana
It’s New Years. At the corner of the village, Ume blossoms. ~ Kobayashi Issa (1763-1828)
Blossoms become a tender memory as Aether Arts Perfume SHIBARI’s singular rope accord holds sway: asanawa, a triple strand, loosely woven jute rope (asa – hemp; nawa – rope) is skillfully evoked by an accord which smells reminiscent of driftwood. The tying of asanawa is subject to specific artistic principles, and is affectionately and veraciously rendered by the perfumer. Amber intimates a rare incense with a dark, brooding set of accords which simmer softly as a harmonious whole. At this juncture in SHIBARI’s development, ghostly florals are still in attendance – but they feel peripheral. How to distinguish incense from wood? My nose finds that question rhetorical, as the elements wend their way in and out of this fragrant web. I cannot speak to how SHIBARI’s deer musk (cruelty-free, as always) is constructed: it suspends the perfume as ropes bind the wearer, to which Amber alludes in her scent description. I find SHIBARI to be an enigmatic, elegant fragrance of substantial subtlety and delicacy. However one interprets this topic, the perfumer’s vision is a haunting, serene one and very grounding, intimate.
Notes: peony, mimosa, plum accord, asanawa (hemp) accord, Japanese incense accord (buddha wood, ho wood, oud), oud accord, wood accord, deer musk (synthetic) accord
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Aether Arts Perfume 5 ml. bottle via brand
Thanks to the generosity of Amber Jobin, we have a 5 ml. bottle of SHIBARI for one registered reader worldwide. You must register of your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what fascinates/repels you about SHIBARI and where you live. Draw closes 1/21/2023
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