Resins in Perfumery: Ancient and Modern + Fragrances that Resonate Draw

  

In the search for early perfume substances, ancient civilizations gravitated to resins like myrrh, frankincense,  pine, fir, olbinam, agarwood, and balsams.  Perhaps as these resins were burnt, it became obvious that the resin itself provided an intense, sweet and woody aroma to fragrance the environment. 

Resins are derived from wounds in trees and are produced commercially by cutting an incision in a tree and collecting the tears or resin that weeps out from the bark. 

Some resins became associated with religious or ceremonial purposes, perhaps being burned in holy places.However, it is also sometimes associated with death as it is one of the ingredients used in embalming by the early Egyptians where it is believed perfume was created

Sometimes resins and balsams are used as skin healing agents. Because of their long-lasting aroma on the skin they were used heavily in early perfumes and still find an important place in a variety of perfumes, most notably those in the incense group.  Incense type perfumes are often thought of as heavy, dark and spicy, yet frankincense is a common incense ingredient that can provide a light, lemony base that beautifully complements citrus or floral perfumes. Frankincense is peppery, lemony, and to me, slightly reminiscent of varnish on a wooden floor.  Myrrh are another ingredient and may be burned for sacred purposes.  Myrrh can be described as woody, warm (yes!), sweet, but also dark, slightly medicinal, even anisic.  I don’t hesitate to use frankincense and love the woody, lemony aspect it can give to a perfume.  Myrrh is difficult and should be used carefully and sparingly but I love the richness it adds to a strong perfume.

In my interview with Camille Goutal  she told me that she was fascinated by Orientalist Art

Balsam fragrances are another resin and are often used as the very definition of a sweet, nearly vanilla, rich and cinnamic fragrance.  They may come from several different plants and include peru balsam, tolu balsam, styrax balsam amber and benzoin.  The term balsamic is often used generically to describe a rich, heavy, sweet, woody and incense note.  Despite this similarity in descriptions, the different balsams are, to my nose and for my purposes, quite different.  Each kind of balsam has its own character and can enrich floral, green or woody perfumes.  Peru balsam is quite sweet, just a bit spicy, and really enhances a vanilla or amber accord.  Styrax benzoin is great for smoky, leathery, intense perfumes and tolu is of similar character.  Styrax is a little harder to work with than peru balsam and tends towards the dark, leathery, and rich.

 Aimé Guerlain  1889 -M. Guerlain used both synthetic and natural ingredients

Benzoin, labdanum and amber are other resins, and are  great all-purpose sweet vanilla balsam that is used in a variety of perfume types and is a great fixative for many blends.   (Editor's note: in synthetic perfumes courmanin and vanillin "creates amber" and was  first used in Guerlain Jicky but Shalimar uses an overdose of Vanillin). PS I actually wear benzoin straight )

Elise Pearlstine, Monthly Contributor

Tis the weather for resins and many of our supporters think so too. These are all my picks along with a little help from our friends:

Providence Perfumes Rose Boheme– agarwood and amber

 's 's  BelleFleureNY- Pine Fir Candle- fir, pine sap 

3.5 ml of Amberess by Anya's Garden– balsam,styrex, labdanum, balsam tolu,amber fossil eo distilled from the resin, benzoin *Click on Anya's Perfumery banner on our site and Anya's Garden

 

 10ml each of  Frapin1270  and Frapin 1697MinNew York  balsam, cistus labdanum 

1 oz spray of DSH perfumes Mahjoun – Amber, Frankincense (Olibanum), True Arabian Myrrh or  DSH perfumes Cimabue  Ciste Absolute, Labdanum, Oppopanax, Siam Benzoin 

1oz spray of Heavy Sugar –Opus Oils La Bohemes  dark amber, aged labdanum, fossilized amber

  clic5 samples of Huitiemme Arts Myrriad – Fragrance and ArtMyrrh

  5 samples Parfums d'Empire Wazamba – Frankincense, Myrrh

Draw closes TuesdayNovember 15 EST

-Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

READ CAREFULLY

There will be 3 winners. In order to be eligible: Tell us any  interview you liked on our home  page   (and a quote from one)   something of interest on ALL the home pages of all our sponsors and your favorite resin

 

We announce draw winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

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21 comments

  • Lovely evocative writing Elise, making me restless for the Studio and I’m thinking of the Balsamics I’ve been working with lately.They are so rich, always giving me pleasure and I must say,rarely grief! I like the way you have described the character of the separateness of the Balsams as well. What beautiful prizes to be had!

  • i made it easier There will be 3 winners. In order to be eligible:

    Tell us any interview you liked on our home page (and a quote from one) something of interest on the home pages of all our sponsors and your favorite resin

  • I liked the interview on September 26, 2010 with Pierre Guillaume: Huitieme Art Perfumes. PG quote from that interview: HAP perfumes consist of perfumery accords for example in Fareb, Bois D’Immortelle which is a composition of original ingredients such as Ginseng extract, which can be described as absolute: a dark brown gum suggesting roasted coffee with hints of wood, spice, tar and cedar. my favorite resins are Galbanum and Myrrh.

  • Forgot to add favorite from homepage of each sponsor:

    Providence Perfume Co. now has travelsize atomizers starting at $26 (great idea)

    MiN New York has an awesome black and white image on their home page with woman holding 2 face masks and an alarm clock.

    Anyas Garden :Amberess Winner – Best New Perfume 2010

    BelleFleur : shows beautiful flower bouquets on her site.

    DSH: Dawn introduces Pandora and has her Last Blast sale going on.

    Opus Oils i like the old fashioned pitures.

  • I loved the interview with Mona di Orio! Her statement” What I love about being independent is that I have the wonderful opportunity to use all the best and marvellous natural ingredients as I want, without any compromise, I don’t have any brief, no prices limit, I’m totallly free and nowadays it is an incredible and rare privilege and a great luxury.” This is why natural perfumers do what they do! A true passion for the senses. Opus oils Scents of imagination, Providence Fine natural perfumes handcrafted and blended in Rhode Island from the best aromas nature has to offer. Anya’s link for perfume course I liked the side by side comparison. (just wondering why there isn’t a link to her web store)? DSH loved her comment Please enjoy your time among my creations and thank you for allowing me to share my world with you! As far as resin favorites.. I am a total resin person. I am drawn and adore them all. Labdanum, Frankincense, Myrrh, Tolu, Benzoin, etc.. That is just me..Great article and thanks to the sponsors.

  • Belle Fleur I immediately remembered her love of the aromas In flowers is what brought about the enviormental fragrance line. Min Ny the black an white photo reminds me of myself when the alarm goes off.

  • My favorite interview was the one with Maurice Roucel. I loved that he picked Ava Gardner as his choice of a celebrity for whom to design a fragrance. He sounds so warm and funny. I could choose a dozen great quotes from that one, but I will choose his response to being asked for a little-known Guerlain fact: “Jicky by Guerlain was named for Jacques Guerlain and his nickname was Jicky.” I had heard so many stories behind the name Jicky over the years, and I am so happy to hear this from M. Roucel!
    Some thing of interest from the home pages of all of our sponsors,
    Providence Perfume Company: Charna sells travel-size atomizers, at an extremely reasonable price! I will be back there soon! I love the clean design of her website, as well as the simple and recognizable design of her products.
    Bellefleurny: The floral arrangements were jaw-droppingly beautiful. My favorite was the style called “Luxe” with the white and purple theme. The Kyara Clove and the Neroli Pine candles sound like they would smell extraordinary.
    Anya’s Garden: Amberess has ten different base notes? It must smell so resiny, deep and rich. I also noticed that Light sounds so beautiful. I am going to have to order a few of those mini samples someday.
    MiN NY: I did not know about this apothecary boutique. I wish they would open one in Chicago, but at least in the meantime they do online sales! They carry fragrances from so many of my favorite houses. I am a fool for Frapin. I have tried 1270, and a decant or bottle is at the top of my wishlist! I have not yet tried 1697, but it is by M. Duchaufour, so it surely must be enchanting.
    DSH: Everyone is buzzing about Pandora, so of course it is featured on her website. The good news is that the new website should be up soon! Honestly, I have yet to try a DSH fragrance that I didn’t like. I was wearing Menthe Moderne practically all summer.
    Opus Oils: I love the old photographs on their website. They succeed in bringing a touch of Old Hollywood glamour to their online shop.
    Fragrance and Art: There is Myrrhiad, right on their front page. That fragrance keeps calling my name, so I am just going to have to try it! Oh, and I must add this about Wazamba. It’s so beautifully deep and woody. I have a bottle, and I do not hesitate to recommend it to anyone.
    Favorite resin? Oh so hard to choose! But it must be frankincense, I think. I enjoyed the photographs of all the resins that accompanied this article today. I had no idea that is what frankincense looks like!

  • I was excited to read the Bertrand Duchaufour interview, because well…Amaranthine. SIGH! Best part of the interview was, and I quote: ” The name of the fragrance is “Les Ailes du Desir” (Wings of Desire) inspired by the movie by Wim Wenders. The owner of Frapin, called me for a meeting. He wanted me to really bring out something unexplored in the cognac note – subtle like a glimpse. ” Not only is he brilliant, but a Wim Wenders fan. That’s lovely!

    Something of interest on the homepages of your sponsors for this draw:

    Providence Perfumes Co. bath/body oils! The milk glass just makes them that much more appealing to the senses. People sometimes forget how important delivery can be, or presentation. I think they knock it out of the park for presentation.

    Belle fleur ny flower arrangements. If you look under the Wedding tab, it looks like they do some unfathomably gorgeous flower arrangements and florals for weddings. I gasped at the purple-white lilies in the ‘luxe’. Mouth-droppingly beautiful.

    Anya’s Garden’s educational options. I always respected Anya for not only being an amazing perfumer but for being an active educator in natural perfumery. Best of all, it looks like she has consultation services on offer, which would be really great for new perfumers who don’t know whom else to go to with their questions.

    Min NY has Miller Harris tea in the Gourmet section. Ahaha, oh no. I can see this website being a problem for me. Must. Hide. Credit. Card.

    DSH Perfumes. I adore Dawn. Sometimes when I’m bored, I just go through her site, page by page, dreaming of which I’ll sample next. I love that she does body care items on some of my favorite scents and that her perfumes often come in affordable smaller sizes. Everyone should take a peek at her Last Chance Items, because they’re marked down very low now.

    Opus Oils! I need to hit up the storefront soon, in Hollywood. I was worried, when I first saw the site a year or so ago, that it was going to be like a BPAL knock-off, but definitely not. The quality of the raw materials is much, much higher. I got a sample of Heavy Sugar with my last order before it came out and I wore it a lot in the summer. It’s delicious.

    Fragrance and Art. Mure Et Musc has a BODY POWDER? Where have I been? Gorgeous. What’s Kr, is that kroner? Ohhh, they have the ELDO bottles with the controversial art. And they have Futur. Sold. (also, head’s up! Your link above links to fragranceandarts.com, not fragranceandart.

    And! Last but not least, favorite resin: Sandarac! Well, at least this month. I can’t get enough of Cedre Sandaraque by Parfumerie Generale.

    Thanks for your hard work!

  • oop, I forgot to say about Opus Oils: I really love all their themes. Sometimes perfume houses try to wrap a story or theme around their scents to sell them (ie: Creed), with differing success. I think Opus Oils and their themes (Island Girls, Les Bohemes, etc) are really clever and offer touchstones for someone sampling their scents.

  • Thank you for the draw !

    1/ I really liked the interview with Mona di Orio: “What I name a “olfactory chiaroscuro” means for me: the lights and the shadows as in a painting. I feel in a perfume that the the ” lights” are the top notes, the shiny citrus, the sharp green leaves… And with the heart notes, we are going to enter slowly in a different mood, to experiment a certain density, more smooth, velvet-like including for example the woods, some flowers and spices… And then to reach finally the bases notes which are deeper, more intense, sensual, animal and darker (animales notes, crystallized products, resinoids…).”

    This interview perfectly reflected who she is.

    2/ Home pages of all of your sponsors:

    Providence Perfume Company: I will be able to try cocoa tuberose (they now offer international shipping, what a good idea !)
    Bellefleurny: I love the website design,how it flashes such beautiful belle fleurs, a beautiful place of bouquets of flower
    Anya’s Garden: for her natural perfumes, of course, but also for the rare articles about or from Edmond Roudnitska
    MiN NY: For their birdcages (but I would not put birds into it…but flowers)
    DSH: for the original sample packs with themes (spring, fall, holiday etc…)
    Opus Oils: Wish I lived in Hollywood to follow the artisan perfume school !
    Fragrance and Art: unfortunately, I could not reach the website 🙁 The fact that they are selling Huitieme Art perfumes (Pierre Guillaume) is highly interesting for me because they are hard to find even in France.

    my favorite resine: no hesitation, Myrrh !

    Last but not least, I would like to say, being french, how much it is pleasureable to read “çà fleure bon” and to learn so much about perfumes and perfumers (even when they are themselves french !)

    Thank you,

    Narriman, living near Grasse in south of France.

  • Wow! I love resins in fragrances. My favorite is frankincense. It’s so calming… I know many people dislike it because its strong association with churches, but I have always liked the way churches smell, since I was a child.

    I have loved all your interviews so far, but my favorite was the one with Geza Schoen and Mark Buxton. I enjoyed a lot reading about their friendship. They are really nice and funny!

    A quote by Geza after being asked about Mark’s secrets: “Well, there are but it will stay a secret cos that’s what secrets are all about within a strong friendship”.

    Something of interest on the homepages of the sponsors:

    – Opus Oils: the photo of the shop. Beautiful! Free shipping for US.

    – DSH: The muguet project! So interesting and promising.

    – MiN New York: Autumn Warmers: scented candles. I love candles!

    – Anya’s Garden: Online Basic Perfumery Course now open!

    – Bellefleur NY: Amazing photos of flowers and candles.

    – Providence Perfume Co: Orange Blossom Body Oil (sounds great).

    – Fragrance and Art: right now it seems that the page isn’t working, but I’ll try later. I’m interested in reading about the new Pierre Guillaume perfumes.

    Thanks to all the sponsors for this wonderful draw!

  • I love Mona di Orio interview.  
    “What I love about  being independent is that I have the wonderful opportunity to use all the best and marvellous natural ingredients as I want, without any compromise, I don’t have any brief, no prices limit, I’m totallly free and nowadays it is an incredible and rare privilege and a great  luxury.”

    Providence Perfume Co. offers travel size atomizers! 

    MiN New York introduces Adrian Mesko’s silk chiffon and 
    satin scarves collection: TEMPS DES RĚVES

    Anya’s  Garden homepage shows a new perfume Royal lotus was launched on 1st of oct. 

    BelleFleur beautiful flower bouquets

    DSH has a new patchouli project : Pandora 

    Opus Oils has an artisan perfume school and offers perfumer supplies 

    Fragrance and art offers all 6 Phaedon’ fragrances including samples.  

    I don’t know who is the sponsor for the Parfum d’Empire . However, Fragrance and art and Parfume d’Empire introduces on their home page the new: Azemour les Orangers 

    My fav resin? All of them! 🙂 If I have to pick one : Peru Balsam. Labdanum is the next fav. Really I love all of them. Life would be boring without them! 🙂

    Thank you!

  • Beautiful write up Elise. I love resins in perfumery, choosing a favourite would be tough, I think the only one that doesn’t instantly make me weak in the knees is agarwood.
    I love the pictures BTW, especially the first, I didn’t know it:-)
    But what a task, ok I love the Mona interview, and hard as it is to choose a best part of it, one of the best parts to me is: “What I name a “olfactory chiaroscuro” means for me: the lights and the shadows as in a painting. I feel in a perfume that the the ” lights” are the top notes, the shiny citrus, the sharp green leaves… And with the heart notes, we are going to enter slowly in a different mood, to experiment a certain density, more smooth, velvet-like including for example the woods, some flowers and spices… And then to reach finally the bases notes which are deeper, more intense, sensual, animal and darker (animales notes, crystallized products, resinoids…).
    I do not like “flat” perfumes, some fragrances are linear, they smell the same from the begining to the end, it makes me bored as I don’t travel, I don’t feel a story… I need to feel a movement, to follow a development.”
    Opus oils; I like the picture side, the old pictures as well as the party ones just seem to sum up perfectly what Kedra Hart wants to say with her perfumes.
    Fragrance and Art; I like that it’s a niche perfumery that does postal orders not that far from me, what’s not to love about that, in this perfume deprived part of the world:-)
    MinNY; The contemporary picture side and design is just awsome. And so easy to navigate, thumbs up. And they carry a beautiful selection of fragrances, love Frapin.
    Providence Perfume; I love that Charna has a blog attached
    and her nice photo, all smiley and so beautiful.
    Anya’s site is great because she just wants to share all and everything to do with perfumed products it’s like a perfume playground to navigate 🙂
    DSH site is huge and must hold something for all, for me personally it has been Cimabue, which has held my curiosity for so long now, since I love saffron AND resins.
    BelleFleure NY, really has stunning floral photos, and I love the colour combination of their web look.

    Thanks to all the sponsors of this great draw.

  • I like the interview with Maurice Roucel, and I like best that he would play Maude in Harold and Maude. Playfullness and zest for life–excellent! quote:” Do you know we used to call ourselves, i.e. perfumers’? ‘Ghosts’. That has certainly changed since the information about us is more available.” My favorite Resin? not one which is often used in perfume: poplar balsam. THough I also like Frankincense.
    From the sponsors: Bellyflowers: the source of the name is cute, and I had forgotten it.

    The Libby Ross Foundation: anything looking out for cancer survivor’s health is good, and I like the clever picture with the women in “ribbon pose”.

    Anya’s garden study site seems to clearly consolidate a lot of information (not an easy task) and it loads very fast, which is nice. Ineke has, as always, very lovely, art deco inspired icons as images (very consistant across the brand)

    DSH is having a sale! SO that’s exciting, and I’ve always admired her straightforward options: wedding, gift, etc., very helpful.

    Providence: nice chatty blog. very accessible.

    A wing and a prayer has almost as many sales as admirers, and admirably restrained packaging,

    The half bottles on the HIstoires de Parfums is very clever, a nice response to the 200 ml of chanel.

    Naz of The Perfume Shoppe is the only thing I should have to love, but I also love the sale bar on the right–makes it too easy!

    Fragrance and Art seem a little new to really comment much, but I like that they are carrying very unique lines so far–

    Sarah Horowitz has a very direct voice in the text, it’s nice that it seems to address the reader .

    Parfums Micallef, well, I’m going to say the film is beautiful, but I honestly wish it did not have music which automatically comes on. I’m awake but everyone else is asleep. And they should really stay asleep. Sorry, I know you were going for the positive.

    Is Esxence a sponsor or an ad? I do like that they make the world of scent not just about purchasing scent, but studying it.

    Indiescents has a clever name and the site is really fast,

    Luckyscent does great samples and is very legible website,

    En Voyage has an eco motive, which is cool,

    FragranceX has great prices, and has great organization given all they carry,

    Belle Fleur has beautiful photography, and

    Keiko Mecheri has a beautifully sophisticated site.

  • I enjoyed the interview with one of my favorite indie perfumers-Jessica September.I loved the way she described my much beloved Reglisse Noire:”polar opposites could come together and find a place of connection that was perfectly balanced”.
    Something of interest:
    Providence perfume co-travel size bottles
    Belle Fleure- Exotic wood trio candles
    MIN NY-Autumn warmers
    Anya’s garden-food and drink oils
    DSH- that gorgeous bottle of Pandora
    Opus-love that they operate out of the Jitterbug Perfume Parlor-(I must have read that novel at least 4 times!)
    Fragrance and art-a fabulous selection of niche and great samples

    Right now I am loving many resins-I mix them in a carrier oil (sesame seed) and wear this as a body moisturizer-some of my favorite blends are labdanum and vanilla, peru balsam and vanilla and frankinscence/myrrh/spikenard.

  • thanks for the draw
    I was very much impressed by the kindness of Candice Beker but also by her straightforwardness-loved her phrase “my customer becomes my muse”
    something of interest:
    providence perfume co.- travel-size botlles
    Belle fleure- flower bouquet
    Anya’s garden- the draw of vietnamese gardenia
    MinNY- beautiful and full homepage
    Opus Oils- the picture they use for “custom bespoken”- la belle epoque
    DSH- the very tempting Pandora
    Fragrance and Art-they do provide international shipping, but, alas, not to where I live
    Parfums d’empire-they call them also “parfums d’audace”which is a nice declaration of intentions
    My fav is frankincence

  • I have to say the Bertrand Duchaufour was my favorite interview, because I’m kind of obsessed right now! I liked that, when asked whether a perfume must smell good to be “art,” he said this: The art of perfumery must be at the same time, innovative, harmonius, and “sent bon”.

    My favorites from each sponsor:

    Providence Perfume Company: Their recent bestseller Cocoa Tuberose, which I can’t wait to try!
    Bellefleurny: I like their About Us section, Meredith and Tony are both very interesting.
    Anya’s Garden: I would love to take part in her online basic perfumery course someday!
    MiN NY: Their Autumn Warmers caught my eye right away, WANT. And I’ve been needing to try Frapin 1270!
    DSH: The Patchouli Project and the Muguet Project! Very cool.
    Opus Oils: Jitterbug Perfume Parlour Teas, tying together my two obsessions!
    Fragrance and Art: “Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d’Empire is arrived!” I love the enthusiasm.
    Parfum d’empire: I actually have not yet had a chance to try, and have always wanted to. I like the bit about Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s profile.

    And my favorite resin is frankincense!

  • my favorite interview is with Bertrand duchaufour! I liked the opening video with “live from NY Bertrand Duchaufour is coming (what a nice man) and that he will making a rice and ink perfume
    Providence Perfume Co. – Charna smiling and so beautiful in about us and Eva Luna -mimosa
    Anya’s Perfumery- sign me up for one of her classes, I would like to learn!
    Belle Fleur NY- thein about us, I enjoyed reading about The Perez’s and perusing their site really love looking at the yello calla lilies.
    DSH: Muguet Project
    Opus Oils: Intrigued by the absinthe collection
    Min new york- i must admit you chose my favorites, frapin 1270 and 1697.. but i enjoy looking at all the fragrances especially linari
    Fragrance and art- what a treasure trove… lucienne long
    my favorite resin is agarwood

  • I liked the article about Carlos Vinals of Symrise from Nov. 13. [CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Carlos Vinals of Symrise + Control Chaos Draw]

    I didn’t know much about Mr. Vinals before reading this and I loved how his father encouraged his interest in scent, ” As I got older I started noticing how my father smelled every day after work. He saw my interest and inspired me to smell each day by playing a smell guessing game. As my abilities grew so did my passion, which led me away from the Flavor side and right to my mothers dresser where all her fragrances were. This passion continued and after moving back to the New York area as a teenager I had summer jobs working at a fragrance companies and knew at that point what I wanted to be.”

    I love stories about parents encouraging kids passions.

    From Providence Perfumes, I love the idea of travel sizes. I’m also a bit tempted by the Orange Blossum Body collection!

    BelleFleureNY has beautiful and oppulant photography (the Flowers!) on her site! Candles, room sprays, Bath & body – I love the offerings.

    From Anya’s Garden, another line that is new to me, I learned that she was a 2010 winner of the best new perfume for 3 scents! Amberess, Kewdra, Light. I need to explore more. Oh – and I didn’t know they offer a perfumery course!

    From Min New York (Frapin) I was delighted to be introduced to a new site that offers a variety of brands, including Frapin. This is another site I’ve bookmarked to explore more.

    From DSH, one of my favorite lines, I learned about the new Pandora and info about the Patchouli project and the muguet project. I have a few DSH scents and they are all very dear to me.

    From Opus Oils, I am intrigued by the Jitterbug Perfume Parlour Teas – it almost makes me want to like tea! I’ll pass on the tea (coffee for me) but will explore the Scents of Imagination from Opus Oils!

    I’ve already explored Fragrance and ARt pages before. From their home page, I noted that Azemour les Oranges by Pd’Empire has arrived! Huitiemme Arts Myrrhiad is easily my pick with notes of myrrh, amber, black tea, vanilla and liquorice. Yum! I like that they carry Parfums d’Empire (Wazamba) line as well!

    I must really love resins! All my favorite perfumes have galbanum, labdanum, Myrrh and/or amber. Today, my favorite is Myrrh as I am lemming for Huituemme Arts Myrrhiad! Thanks for the draw!

  • To add my final two “scents” my most favorite quote from CaFleureBon came from Michelyn Camen herself when she spoke of perfume making as follows: the top notes are talent, the heart is passion and the base is perseverance. This is a great analogy for any endeavor we pursue in life:)