Jeroboam Insulo © Karl
“Pop, Pop, Pop, it’s showtime!” announced the diminutive jet-black flacon, I wondered what surprise awaited me, well I considered that there’s no time like the present – and with that I joyfully spritzed the mysterious perfume from the gold atomizer… suddenly that 24-karat magic hit the air. Head turner, conversation starter and rouser; the little onyx bottle has made its presence felt.
“Tonight
I just want to take you higher
Throw your hands up in the sky
Let’s set this party off right.”- Bruno Mars, 24k Magic.
Bruno Mars via promo shot for 24K Magic 2016©
Since its inception in 2015, Jeroboam has represented a universal vision and brought a distinct flavour to proceedings. Experimenting and breaking conventions in the world of perfumery is what separates Jeroboam from the crowd. Asked by founder Francois Henin to utilise musk in each fragrance, perfumer Vanina Muracciole has amplified Jeroboam scents with a hearty dose of it to give a volume and breadth to interact with both the air and the skin. Flipping the focus to the base of the scent and saturating oneself in a whirl of musk breaks down the structure of tradition and welcomes in a new playground of olfactory creativity. The effect is exaggerated when combining raw materials with finesse.
Francois Henin Image courtesy of Jeroboam©
In creating Jeroboam Insulo meaning (Island) in Esperanto, Vanina Muracciole created fragrance magic by using two of the most common ingredients in perfumery musk and vanilla to maximum effect. It brings that showtime presence of “Lights, camera, action” and a vivacity of an aphrodisiac based on a central component certain to court attention. It is an invitation to dive in deep and experience a fragrance that is a supple vehicle of bitter and sweet tones. Insulo has a lip-smacking addictive quality to it, the vanilla is deep and resinous. Gilded in its luxurious tonality also its opulence.
There’s something about a scent which creates an excitement around you. It’s a double-edged sword. People want to know what you are wearing; they want to get close and discover more. Look out, because here you will garner the attention of many. Just make sure you have a witty retort at the ready should the need arise. This is a scent of that player-game scenario full of fun and has a bewitching quality to it.
Vanina Muracciole image courtesy of Jeroboam©
Vanilla and musk draw you in immediately, which remain the backbone. Jeroboam Insulo possesses a rhythmic quality full of strength and heft fluctuating between golden, earthy and treacle colours on each smell. You are taken to pleasurable close ups of each element. Dig deeper and you will uncover spicy undertones and a wealth of subtlety such as bonfire toffee mixed with liquorice. This sweetness in Insulo is amplified with a nuance which I can compare to a classic Crème brûlée; the rich custard base contrasted with layered caramelised sugar. It lingers throughout and blends smoothly with the boozy and nutty aspects making this multifaceted and deeply alluring.
The depth of Jeroboam Insulo is offset by a subtle use of jasmine in the heart which adds a floral and slightly animalic touch. Juxtaposing the strength and fragility of the scent – a powerful first impression belying a delicate heart. Musk creates a warmth to bring everything together also extending its longevity. Insulo is above all sensual and Vanina Muracciole has taken the brief of producing a seductive scent and blended a perfume that is a real powerhouse of this genre. 24 Karat Magic indeed.
Disclaimer: bottle of Jeroboam Insulo generously provided by Jovoy Mayfair. My opinions are my own.
Karl Topham, Senior Contributor
Thanks to the generosity of Jeroboam we have a 30 ml bottle of Insulo for one registered reader EU in the UK & USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what strikes you about Jeroboam Insulo, where you live, and if you are aware of Jeroboam. Draw closes 5/7/22
Please read my Jeroboam Ambra here
Please read Emmanuelle’s review of Miksado, Nicoleta’s review of Boha and Floro
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