EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: On the Record with Bertrand Duchaufour & Michelyn Camen+ “Duchaufour 2 Die 4 Draw”

The past few days had left me dazed and confused. In House perfumer? Leaving L'Artisan Parfumeur and Penaligon's? COMING …GOING? (no pun intended re: La Petite Mort) It boiled down to a miscommunication of what an in house perfumer meant. Master perfumer and friend- in- fragrance Bertrand  Duchaufour clarifies his multiple positions, projects and explains why he is in the mood for Aoud.

 

Bertrand when I last interviewed you in October 2010 in NYC, you hinted you would be taking on more projects. Since then we have seen fragrances for Parfums MCDI, Marc Atlan and Frapin. What were the challenges and inspiration for each?

BD: For Frapin, the team wanted to evocation direct of the cognac scent and the atmosphere of a cognac brand. For MDCI, Claude Marchal gave me all freedom I need and I worked on one of my favorite flowers : the osmanthus. For Marc Atlan, the brief  for La Petite Mort was precise and focused on the female odor after the orgasm… it was clear and direct.

 

The 800 lb gorilla.  Will you leave your Atelier at L’Artisan Parfumer?

BD:   I AM NOT LEAVING ! ! !  No, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon's give me all their trust for working upon any project of any brand I want, as long as I  keep everything  separate and that my projects with other clients are not in conflict.

Will you be creating any more Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan fragrances this year?

BD: I  am working on two Penhaligon’s projects ( one is finished already ) and one project for L’Artisan Parfumeur  as well

JCE: 2002 (Photo: Bois de Jasmin blog)

What will your role be at The Different Company? Will it be similar to Jean Claude Ellena’s at Hermes (who started the Different Company and left in 2004)?

BD:   I will work like I am working already for L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon's; they will give me exclusivity on their next projects

How much creative latitude will you have?

BD: I have already the same freedom and latitude of possibilities as  with L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon's … no more, no less

Why the Different Company, when so many houses would have wanted you?

BD: I am choosing only the more exclusive, the  most luxurious, those one accept my desire to create fragrance without limitations of price or creativity

What are the core values of The Different Company that you will continue, what will you bring that is different?

BD: not completely different, but an evolution of work,  just because I will try to achieve a different style of creation

Aoud is erotic;  I chose these African sculptures to reflect Bertrand Duchaufour's love of African primitve Art

When will the first fragrance you create for The Different Company debut?

BD: I think the first launch is in April…An oudh

 

Of all the fragrances to date by the TDC, which is your favorite? Why?

BD: “Sel de vetiver”

When Jean Claude Ellena started The Different Company , the fragrances were in his minimalist style , in keeping with his training as a student of Edmond Roudnitska.  I don’t think of you in those terms…you are about challenge and dualites. In what way will you bring your signature to your new position?

  BD: You’re right I have a different style than JCE… The first fragrance I am working on for TDC is quite sophisticated but I will try to come back to “house’s style”, working more… simply…

How is our Rice and Ink fragrance? Is it in progress?

BD: I did few tries upon it… by it’s in stand by for while… I will come back to it later, I promise.

  

Henri Toulouse Lautrec: Woman Sitting on a Divan

 Cafleurebon’s 1st birthday is March 22, 2011. What fragrance would you dedicate to us of all you have created and why?

  BD: I will choose the more eccentric and sensual for you Michelyn…L'Artisan Parfumeur  NUIT DE TUBEREUSE … c’est la fête

When are we going to drink a great Scotch whiskey in NYC?

BD: Hum… I don’t know… may-be in the end of this year I guess… when somebody will invite me  to New York. I hope so ! 

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 

 

 Courtesy of www.lartisanparfumeur.com

 Editor's Note: I dedicate this quote to -Bertrand- from Toulouse Lautrec who's art I used to 'paint' Nuits de Tubereuse ". In our time there are many artists who do something because it is new.. they see their value and their justification in this newness. They are deceiving themselves.. novelty is seldom the essential. This has to do with one thing only.. making a subject better from its intrinsic nature"

Thanks to our friends at L’Artisan Parfumeur you too can smell eccentric and sensuous J This is a draw for 100ml of Nuits de Tubereuse and will kick off www.cafleurebon.com’s  first Birthday. Please leave a comment on your favorite fragrance by Bertrand Duchaufour, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Penhaligon’s and /or the Different Company. Draw end Monday March 14, 2011 at  6 PM est

   REQUES : Please read the links, and go through our archives as we will be holding  many draws and  special surprises as well as a Celebration contest beginning today, for your favorite interview, article, review from March 22, 2010 –  www.cafleurebon.com

 

 

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56 comments

  • Nuit de Tubereuse is by far my favorite perfume by Bertrand Duchaufour and by L'Artisan.  It is totally addicting and could be a signature scent, if I had to choose.  Hot humid summer weather brings out all its facets.  Traversee du Bosphore is delightful, my second favorite perfume from LAP.
    I was thrilled to read that Mr. Duchaufour's favorite fragrance from The Different Company is Sel de Vetiver, as it is mine too.  I admit to having a little crush on him.   

  • I haven't had the chance to smell many of Mr. Duchaufour's creations but I really really like Avignon. During my trip to Europe last year, every church I visited, reminded me of CDG's Avignon (I know it should probably be the other way 'round)

  • Aedes de Venustas awakened me, Avignon fed my soul, Timbuktu led me on flights of fantasy, but Flora Bella has become a companion– soothing and smoothing my rough times, and bringing beauty to everyday. 🙂 Thank you Bertrand Duchaufour for these… and thank you CaFleurBon for this engaging interview.

  • Congratulations on your first birthday! And I would love to smell eccentric and sensuous, as well as to be that way in general. For my favorite Duchaufour fragrances, I'm going with Ea d'Italie, Baume du Dodge and Paestum Rose. 

  • Have to say Avignon, but oh am I looking forward to the new release with oudh. No dirty secret
    that this is one of my passions. Lovely article Michelyn. Happy Coming First Birthday Cafleurbon 😉

  •      
    Havana Vanille talks to me like the ages of a woman. My youth, my follies, my dreams, and even my foibles. Dynamic & unpredictable, the fragrance is soft & evocative in nature, playful in expression. An all time fave, though on a mad hunt for an ideal tuberose. Been through the gamut of the usual suspects, but none have tickled my fancy.

    Happy, happy birthday to you! A recent addict of the histories, scents & sensibilities behind my fave brands and notes.

  • I love many Duchaufour fragrances, but I would have to say my favorite is Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver.

  • I like many Duchaufour creations, but Amaranthine is such a beauty! Naughty and nice. Floral, tropical and oriental. It shouldn't work, but it does. Just marvelous in hot weather.

  • I love Nuit De Tuberose and Dzongka as well as Amouage Jubilation. Duchaufour is a legend in fragrance and his style and artistry cannot be duplicated. His scents are not similar to each other and they have a taste for adventure. I loved the Eau de Italie fragrance he created because it gave me the scent of nature. Dzongka has some incredible incense notes. Amouage is a wonderful patchouli scent. Nuit is just fantastic!

  • Claudia Kroyer says:

    Wow…i am so excited if his next creation will be something with Oudh…i am hoping it will be a oudh fragrance on the softer side. He is such a talented perfumer. Nuit de Tubereuse sound amazing. he has created many fragrances i absolutely love. Oh and then the new Frapin…Gorgeous. What a wonderful draw. This was fun reading.

  • Thank you for all your comments.is anyone excited about  BD's new fragrances???? I am trying to picture an oud for TDC…. it will be very interesting.

    sandi- thank you for wishing us happy birthday!!!!

  • Claudia- I am glad you noticed the oud  angle… its so not in the tradition of TLC… and its certainly wonderful to be called sensual and eccentric. Did this clear  up any confusion?

  • hmm.. I had an ex boyfriend introduce me to Anthology Gardenia years ago…  brings back so many memories. I also adore Jasmin de nuit.
     I woud love to try Nuit de tuberose. The tuberose scent can be tricky but beautiful if done well.

  • …oh, when I hear Pennhaligon's all I can think of (and smell!) is Amaranthine! True love at first sniff…

  • My favorite Duchaufours are Dzongkha and Al Oudh.  It took me a while to get Dzongkha, and now I just love it.  Al Oudh I find incredibly sexy, especially in the summer!
    I have so many more to try, and I am really glad he is able to create so much for different houses.

  • Traversée du Bosphore, Al Oudh and Dzongkha are my favorites of BD for L'Artisan, while I also adore Paestum Rose and Baume du Doge for Eau d'Italie. I wasn't fond of NdT on sampling, but maybe it would grow on me…and I am excited to hear about TDC An Oud – unlike others, I'm not tired of the oud trend – bring it on!

  • I simply can't be expected to narrow it down to ONE favorite….but I'll try to put them in today's order….which may be slightly different tomorrow…you know how that goes.  
    Traversée du Bosphore
    Nuit de Tubereuse
    Havana Vanille 
    Amaranthighs (otherwise known as Amaranthine)
    BD is truly a gifted perfumeur.   All 4 of the above–I bought unsniffed…and loved them all…and now just because he did it–I've ordered Frapin 1697… I just don't see how that can be a bad thing… 
    I can hardly wait to see/sniff his next projects. 🙂 

  • Whew! I am so relieved that L'Artisan will continue its partnership with Mr. Duchaufour. My favorite of his? I will narrow it down to five: Amaranthine, Timbuktu, Fleur de Liane, Sienne l'Hiver, and Havana Vanille. Did I say that I'm a big fan? 😉
     

  • I'm a big fan of TDC–Sublime Balkiss and even Oriental Lounge that doesn't get much love. In terms of L'Artisan's and BD I also am a fan of Dzongkha, although at this point it is more the concept of it rather than when it is on my skin. I'm also looking forward to smelling the new TDC Oud. 

  • taffynfontana says:

    His  creativity is astounding, I have to say my favorite is Timbuktu followed by Nuit de Tubereuse.

  • I like both Timbuktu and Nuit de Tubereuse. Both of them are personal and unique and impossible to mix up with something else.

  • Happy upcoming birthday and many happy returns!
    The only perfume by Mr. Duchafour I've tried so far was Amaranthine. I liked it but it hasn't become my favorite. From everything I'm reading I have a great journey in front of me.

  • Oh, I don't have a favourite Duchafour. I love them all – I discovered some of my favourites were his creations, after I fell in love with them.
    But my favourite TDC is Charmes et Feuilles, even though I like all of them a lot.

  • Happy Birthday! My fav would be Traversée du Bosphore right now..if you asked me tomorrow, I might say something different. I cannot wait for the new oud…

  • This is too hard!  He's created so many wonderful fragrances….but I have to say a tie between Timbuktu and Traversée du Bosphore. Expecting to not like either, I ended up loving both.
     
    Happy 1st Birthday and here's to many more!

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    My favorite The Different Company is also Sel de Vetiver and I have a bottle and a backup already. My favorite from Mr. Duchaufour are CdG Avignon and Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose. Please enter my name in the draw and Happy Birthday!!!

  • Happy Birthday…and thank you for giving" us", so many" Scentsational" moments.Your stories and insight have added pure delight to my reading and education about fragrance.
    Keep the articles coming!
    Mr Duchaufour's new fragrance sounds exciting and I would love to try it….. 

  • sonia garcia says:

    Hi first I just wanna say: HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!! keep all the posts cominng and hope that you guys can keep going and going… My favorite Bertrand Duchaufour creations are Comme des Garcons Kyoto and Sequoia, Also want to add that my favorite The Different Company fragrance is Sublime Balkiss. I can't wait to try the new oud that he is going to do with them. Thanks!!!!

  • I agree this is too hard to pick favorites!  But if I had to pick I'd say L'artisan L'ete en Douce, Penhaligon's Artemesia, TDC Sel de Vetiver (same as Bertrand Duchaufour =P ), and my favorite by Bertrand has got to be L'artisan Poivre Piquant

  • So many favorites of the creative Duchaufour. I love Dzongkha and TDC Sublime Balkiss. I love the uniqueness and complexity of the way these evolve on my skin. I have always been a fan of wearing niche but these are even beyond that. I enjoy wearing perfumes that will bloom differently on me from one wearing to the next.  I laso have enjoyed the journey with Bertrand as his own talents have evolved…from Paestum Rose's seemingly dirty & trendy rose to the upcoming genuinely rare Frapin 1697. I am joyful to have been along for the ride. I look forward to the future and what he will create for us!

  • Duchaufour has done such great work in this last year alone (so many projects) that it' hard to choose. I really love the CdG work of his the most I think (Kyoto is so brilliant— more than a fragrance; it's a meditation). But in terms of "pretty" perfumes of his, I truly like Nuits de Tubereuse the best. So I hope I win!! 🙂

  • My favorite Penhaligon's has yet to be discovered I'm sure…..I'm going to London in a few weeks and that's part of my quest.  For now, it's Endymion. Having a wife that is a tuberose freak, the Nuits du Tubereuse would be great.  As for Duchafour, more votes for Kyoto and Al Oudh. 

  • I have not had the chance to smell all of BD's perfumes, I do love Colonia Assoluta and Flora Bella. One of my favorite TDC's is Oriental Lounge.

  • Michelle Hunt says:

    Oh, how I would LOVE to try Nuit de Tuberose..tuberose is my absolute favourite absolute, and my first luxurious bottle still remains in my cabinet of aromatics…I love even looking at it, it reminds my of the joy I felt when I received it as a special gift.
    My favourite Bertrand Duchaufour fragrance is Mechant Loup.  My husband wore this for years and I think if he were to start wearing it again it would bring back happy memories.  It is a very appealing mascuilne fragrance! 

  • I am just a couple of months into expanding my perfume horizons, so I haven't yet tried anything by Bertrand Duchaufour. Based on your glowing review here and my research in the blogosphere, my choices would be Nuit de Tubereuse, Traversee du Bosphore and Amaranthine.
    With regards to the interview, Michelyn: I went back into the archives so I could read all your previous interviews with this perfumer. It has been really interesting — the discussion of duality as a starting point, his need to work with quality ingredients and never compromise his art for commerciality, and his lack of concern about the IFRA regulations ("I can create with what is available") are what stood out for me. I also appreciated his opinion that bloggers need to put out correct information and I appreciate your having done that re his "in-house" perfumer status. 
    Thanks so much for your work in interviewing the perfumers. I really enjoy this aspect of your site.

  • i really like Jubilation xxv that i tried several months ago and colonia Absoluta that i came across this morning :D.

  • Bertrand Duchaufour is one of my favorite perfumers I love his creations, my favorites are Timbuktu and the recent Sartorial, I always try to follow his work, have to try the new oud for The Different Company, and to answer if you are loyal to the houses, I think that perfume aficionados don't get stuck with one or two houses, we want to explore and try many things as possible and not the get stucked with just one or two, is different when you follow a perfumer, then like in Mr. Duchaufour case he has a prolific career that covers many houses is really good because you can discover a lot of gems.

  • Thanks for another great interview, Michelyn! My experience with Duchafour's fragrances isn't extensive I'm afraid, but from what I have tried my favourite would have to be the sexy beast Timbuktu.
    Can I just say that I enjoyed the artwork as much as the interview itself? 🙂

  • Wonderful article! I can't wait for his next creation.  My current favorites of his are Amaranthine and Havana Vanille. Happy Birthday and congratulations!

  • My favorite Duchafour fragrance is either Aedes de Venustas (because it feels socozy) or Nuit de Tubereuse (which is the first tuberose fragrance I've ever liked). I can't wait to try the new one for MDCI!

  • Thanks to all for birthday wishes
    sean-good answer
    dusan- sexy beast indeed ! TY  for  the compliments on art..it is dear to me
    dleep- amaranthine 🙂 its a favorite of so many
    rosyia- I love assoulata
    Lindaloo-  we love your  answer
    Hackensack- so lucky to go to london

  • you smell!!! says:

    Wow! This is a great draw, first I just want to say that this is a great blog, I have to check everyday not just for the draws but for the interviews, reviews and the news in upcoming releases, it is a solid blog and I hope it continues many years down the road, Happy Birthday!!! Now on Mr Duchaufour he is one of my favorites and his creations are some favorites of mine, he worked with many houses and have an impressive portfolio, my favorites are Timbuktu, Avignon, Sartorial and Paestum Rose. And he keeps on going which is amazing because his works are getting better now, I can't wait to try his first creation for The Different Company.

  • Bertrand Duchafour has created one of my favorite perfumes ever: Baume do Doge for Eau d'Italie. I love it so much! The blend of incense, woods, cinnamon, citrus… It's really evocative.
    And I think that Timbuktu is a masterpiece too.
    I had de chance to try Traversée du Bosphore two months ago and it is another wonder. And Sartorial! A perfect unisex fougere.
    I would love to win Nuits de Tubereuse. I have never tried it but it has received great reviews.

  • Ohh i would love to win this, I've tried Nuit de Tubereuse and fell in love with it.. my favorites from Bertrand Duchaufour must be Timbuktu, which i happened to wear just last night, it's amazing!, Mechant Loup, that I adore and will rebuy soon as the bottle is almost empty :), and Poivre Piquant, which happens to be my "comfort" scent. Thanks for the draw! 

  • Without doubs Nuit de Tubereuse. Absolutely lovely tuberose. 
    I have many of his fragrances but NdT is just perfect. I am sure I can use a whole bottle in no time. 

  • Dzongkha is my favorite L'artisan perfume by Duchaufour. I've lived around Asia and visited Buddist monasteries in Bhutan and Nepal. This captures the mood of the place so perfectly for me, it's nothing short of an olafactory miracle!  My favorite Penhaligon's scent by Duchaufour is Amaranthine.

  • Happy birthday and congratulations, Michelyn! 🙂 Really great blog you have here, love it!
    My favourite Bertrand Duchaufour scent from L'Artisan has got to be Vanille Absolument. Such a comforting scent to wear, it just makes the person wearing it feel so at ease, Bertrand Duchaufour is a real legend!
    Would really love to try Nuit de Tubereuse!

  • For me, it has to be Penhaligon's Endymion…incredibly sexy- and while it has some masculine notes, it can be as easily worn by a woman as a man- provided she's got confidence…!

  • Many happy returns of the day! 
    I love Dzonkha too but Traversee du Bosphore is great too… I love BD's range and adventurousness.
    The discussion reminded me of the old Cafe Lautrec in DC:

  • Just experienced Nuits de Tubereuse for the first time- received a small sample- and IT IS FABULOUS!!!!! Run, don't walk, to your nearest seller of fine perfumes and snap up a bottle…probably the sexiest perfumes I've ever encountered…