October 2021 in Paris? The famous Arc de Triomphe ephemerally wrapped by Christo and Jeanne-Claude… and Louis Vuitton extraits, Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique, J.U.S Bloomsastral, Pierre Guillaume Contemplation collection, Estée Lauder (parfums de luxe )collection and Dusita Anamcara – Arc de Triomphe, and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron, bottles via brands.

 Historically fragrance news ebbs and flows throughout each year but 2020 was relatively quiet due to lockdown. Over the past two months everything seemed to happen all at once and I hardly knew where to start. There was  so much going on in October 2021  that I could have written many reviews and posts.  After discussing with editor-in-chief Michelyn Camen, we decided that I would recount my very busy October 2021 calendar which included perfume launches and news  that have re- animated Paris “The City of Love’s” perfumed life.

Louis Vuitton Extraits samples, Louis Vuitton Rhapsody bottle, Louis Vuitton extraits collection and Paris Fondation Louis-Vuitton – all ©Emmanuelle Varron except the Extrait collection ©Louis Vuitton.

 1st October 2021 – Louis Vuitton extraits presentation preview: Shortly before the official release, I was lucky enough to be invited at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann department store for Louis Vuitton new Extraits collection preview, all signed by Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, its official perfumer. Five creations in bottles like a work of art: the body, inspired by the eaux de parfum’s one, has been revamped by Frank Gehry, Fondation Louis-Vuitton famous architect who also created the spectacular cap, an amazing object that one would hardly dare to touch, as it is so imposing. But there are five fragrances to discover, in an 100 ml version quite unusual for Extraits: Cosmic Cloud, a patchwork of musks playing between powdery, woody and fruity facets, wrapped in a tonka bean with very chocolatey notes; Dancing Blossom, a more traditional composition with a jasmine-rose-tuberose trio embellished with osmanthus; Stellar Time, an amber and vanilla orange blossom; Symphony, which combines bergamot, orange and grapefruit with ginger; And my favorite, Rhapsody, a floral chypre combining the light of jasmine and ylang-ylang and the darkness of vetiver and mate, warmed by patchouli.

What a pre-launch party in October 2021! Marilyn, Bertrand Duchaufour and Jean-Pierre Marois (Les Bains Guerbois owner), a branded coaster, a beautiful display, and Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique bottle – all ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 6th October – Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique pre-launch: A week after unveiling it exclusively at Harvey Nichols in London, and three weeks before its worldwide launch, Les Bains Guerbois organized an 1986 Éclectique pre-launch party in the former Les Bains nightclub, which has now become a sublime 5-star hotel. It was an opportunity to (re)discover the fragrance (as it had been privately presented to me a few weeks earlier) within the the place which inspires the brand collection. But above all, I was happy to chat with Marilyn, the mythical Les Bains gatekeeper from 1986, and the new Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique muse. A true delight because at the time, there was no room for catch-up with her: your fate was fixed in a few seconds, a look, and a few words: it was “yes” or (often) “no” to enter. Bertrand Duchaufour, the perfumer (already author of Les Bains Guerbois 1979 Les Bains) was exceptionally there and explained to all the amazed guests how he created Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique. It was quite a party, like the ones we used to have before 2019! You can find my Les Bains Guerbois 1986 Éclectique review here.

Alexandra Carlin, Jean-Baptiste Roux and Brigitte Wormser, testing J.U.S Bloomastral, J.U.S Bloomastral institutional visual – all ©Emmanuelle Varron except institutional visual ©J.U.S.

7th October 2021– J.U.S Bloomastral presentation: The next (early) morning, I joined the young J.U.S brand, launched in 2018 by Brigitte Wormser, Thierry de Baschmakoff and Jean-Baptiste Roux. J.U.S is an acronym which means both “jus” (juice” is the French nickname given to a fragrance) and “Joyau Unique & Sensoriel” (unique and sensory jewel). I was introduced to Bloomastral, the new perfume created by Alexandra Carlin (her third for the brand). The perfumer was present and explained the entire creative process. J.U.S Bloomastral is a tribute to jasmine, but not just any jasmine: the Galant de Nuit, that only reveals its opulent and carnal notes after sunset. Since it is impossible to extract it naturally, Alexandra Carlin had the daring idea of ​​recreating it by playing different chords. It gives an extremely sensual scent, with a juicy and fresh opening thanks to Timut pepper and tangerine. J.U.S Bloomastral then develops its acidulous facets with osmanthus, enriched with rounder facets brought by vanilla and ylang-ylang. Little by little, I imagine the summer night falling, and the heady scent of jasmine tickling my nostrils. It is the magic of Egyptian jasmine (very almond and caramelized) combined with sandalwood. On my skin, J.U.S Bloomastral plays an intense score, as the jasmine sings loudly, accompanied by the apricot facet of osmanthus. A very joyful and sunny fragrance (even if it evokes the heat of summer nights) which comes in addition to the eleven previous creations by J.U.S, signed by Céline Ellena, Aliénor Massenet, Aurélien Guichard, Fabrice Pellegrin … and Alexandra Carlin, of course. The bottles are available in 25 ml and 100 ml versions and are refillable.

 

 

Francis Kurkdjian named new Parfums Christian Dior Perfume Creation Director – ©Julia Noni.

 8th October –Francis Kurkdjian announces he will be Parfums Christian Dior new Perfume Creation Director on Instagram: It was arguably the most coveted position in perfumery now, with François Demachy’s scheduled departure before the end of 2021 is official. Several names were circulating as the new , including that of Francis Kurkdjian, through his link with LVMH (Maison Francis Kurkdjian has been part of the group since 2017), but some doubted that he would abandon MFK for Dior. The perfumer reassured his fans by announcing that he would keep the link with his brand created in 2009 with Marc Chaya while getting on with his new prestigious role, rewarding his combining commercial success and deliberately more confidential creations work. He was therefore the perfect candidate for the Dior institution, whose latest creations have rather disappointed perfumistas. Fans of Eau Noire, one of its colognes launched in 2004 by Hedi Slimane (then Creative Director for Men at Dior) are already delighted to find his touch both sophisticated and modern, so inspired by Art in all its forms. Francis Kurkdjian took office on 18th October 2021. What will be his first creation?

 

 

Pierre Guillaume Contemplation collection display in Paris boutique, Pierre Guillaume Bagatelle Roma institutional visual, Habanera institutional visual – boutique display ©Emmanuelle Varron and institutional visuals ©Pierre Guillaume.

13th October – Pierre Guillaume Contemplation collection presentation preview: A few days before the official release of Pierre Guillaume new Contemplation collection I had the opportunity to discover the eight Eaux de parfum  all created by its prolific founder and perfumer. I already knew four of them, from the Rhapsodie collection hidden from the media and social networks and secretly launched for the opening of the Parisian boutique in 2016. Out of the twelv, Pierre Guillaume kept four: Au-delà du noir (davana, blackcurrant bud, Kyara wood), Femme en smoking (black calla, cardamom, incense, honey, cedar, sandalwood), Lumière fauve (absolute African stone, honey, leather, tobacco, cocoa) and Habanera. The latter actually remained the same and is still a big crush. The rose feels omnipresent but is candied by the saffron, combined with a very cigar tobacco note, patinated with leather and a balmy benzoin: I am transported into the performance of Carmen, the cigar maker, at the gates of Seville. It is without a doubt the opera that I have seen the most in my life (in about fifteen different versions) and one of the most popular in the world. Habanera is undoubtedly its most perfect olfactory signature. And an absolute delight on the skin, ultra-sensual and animal. The other four creations in the Contemplation collection all have a great personality: Au royaume des femmes (rose, tonka bean, benzoin), Irizia pearl (sandalwood, rice, jasmine, amber), Les racines du mâle (vetiver, leather, gaiac wood) and Bagatelle Roma. Then again, I fell in love with the latter. Here, it is very dark, modern and almost masculine fragrance, with an earthy facet of petrichor, a note in between gasoline and rubber that evokes the smell of an old scooter tires rolling on Parisian cobblestones, and a rose–leather accord that gives all its sensuality. Pierre Guillaume was inspired by one of his collaborator’s pictures published on Instagram, showing pots of ancient red roses bought at the Parc de Bagatelle, in the pouring rain, settled in the back of his Vespa. It is a collection that remains exclusive, available in stores in Paris and Clermont-Ferrand, on the brand’s official website and at a few historical distributors.

Estée Lauder Parfums de luxe Masterclass at the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann private salon, Estée Lauder corner department store display, ÇaFleureBon Estée Lauder Infinite Sky review visual – all ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 15th October – Estée Lauder Parfums de Luxe collection Masterclass:  Having just written a review on Estée Lauder Infinite Sky, my favorite of the “Parfums de luxe” collection, I am not going to describe it again. I had the chance to be invited at a Masterclass organized by the brand in the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann private “salons”, where each fragrance was presented to me (and other guests) with great care. I had heard about this collection for a few months, and I thought that it would be in a much higher price scale, especially since the niche brands that are part of the Estée Lauder group (Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Kilian Paris, Le Labo) are very high-end.

To read my Estée Lauder Inifinite Sky review, click here.

 

Parfums Dusita Anamcara raw materials Boutique display, Parfums Dusita Issara, Parfums Dusita Anamcara PR discovery set – all ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 20th October 2021 – Parfums Dusita Anamcara Paris official launch: Senior Editor Despina Veneti wrote the first  written review of  Parfums Dusita Anamcara for CaFleureBon and Parfums Dusita had already unveiled this new creation around white flowers and tea on its website and social networks. But it was great to be invited for a “Parisian official launch”, to meet friends and perfumistas in the boutique which is a stone’s throw from the Saint-Roch church and the very prestigious rue Saint-Honoré where you can find many perfume brands (Anamcara by Pissara Umavijani  was created in conjunction with the Eau my Soul Facebook Group). I enjoyed the evening because I was able to   rediscover her other creations including Mélodie de l’amour and Issara, my favorites). Pissara and her whole team were very attentive to all the guests. The atmosphere was joyful as is Parfums Dusita Anamcara which is a real delight on the skin, both floral and gourmet, but delicious, juicy, and delicate. A scent of friendship (Anamcara means “soul friend” in Gaelic) and of reverie, of true optimism after these long months of pandemic.

Teo Cabanel storefront, insides, Caroline Ilacqua and Patrice Revillard at the inauguration – all ©Emmanuelle Varron.

21st October 2021 – Teo Cabanel’s first boutique grand opening: While there was no fragrance debut at Teo Cabanel,  how could I resist the opening night of one of the newest perfume shops in Paris? The boutique has been designed to welcome customers in a very friendly and cocooning environment (there is a huge yellow sofa that welcomes you with a cup of tea, if you wish). The latest perfumes   could not be promoted in person until now since all had been turned upside down by the numerous lockdowns. October 2021 was an opportunity to smell several raw materials guided by Maelstrom perfumers Patrice Revillard and Marie Schnirer and to better understand these very modern and accessible fragrances. I also previewed the brand’s next two creations, (also the work of Patrice and Marie), which will be released in spring 2022.  Of course, I can’t tell you anything yet, but both Marie and Patrice each composed amazing fragrances. No, no, I won’t say more!

I hope you found this scented, albeit hectic October 2021 walk in Paris exciting and instructive. I haven’t told you about all of my  meetings and discoveries because more will be revealed, dear ÇaFleureBon readers! Which event, launch or perfume are you the most excited about?

 Emmanuelle Varron, Senior contributor and Paris brand ambassador

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