Ugo Charron and Emmanuelle Dancourt via Ugo Charron/MANE

I find it quite challenging to write about UMEMA which has been previously covered by a brilliant and insightful writer like our own Elise Pearlstine. It can be viewed as a daunting assignment – even if it concerns a topic with which you have had extensive professional experience over the years. This was the situation which presented itself recently when I was generously sent a sample of the collaborative fragrance UMEMA (umami, Emmanuelle, anosmia), created by the young and talented MANE perfumer Ugo Charron and Emmanuelle Dancourt – an ambassador and spokesperson for anosmie.org. Mme. Dancourt has been completely anosmic since birth. Monsieur Charron has been fascinated by various aspects of aroma – in particular, synaesthesia: how fragrance translates in terms of shape, color, sound, tactility. The fifth flavor known as umami became his locus of exploration, as it is the flavor profile much appreciated by persons who experience anosmia – an absence of the ability to detect odor – whether it be partial, complete, temporary or permanent. Umami is described by Emmanuelle as being “the taste of fat, rich, creamy and delicious!” The goal was for these two to co-create a perfume which would be pleasing and feel uniquely intimate to Emmanuelle.

 Ugo with Stéphanie Trouiller, Vincent Kuczinski and Andreas Steiner of MANE

This past September World Taste and Smell Month was observed, and a Global Taste and Smell Summit was held at the Museum of Food and Drink in New York City. UMEMA was formally debuted (it had been composed two years previously) during “Senses Intertwined: A Journey Beyond Taste & Smell” session presented by MANE. It would have been marvelous to attend this hallmark event, had I been aware in advance.

 Ugo Charron of MANE

“Creating UMEMA was a journey of synesthetic exploration, celebrating a fragrance that transcends traditional boundaries, connecting us all through the universal language of scent.” ~ perfumer Ugo Charron

Jr. Perfumer Ugo Charron and Senior Perfumer Ralf Schweiger at the Smell Synthesizer station

How do we differentiate between anosmias? And discuss the qualities which embody the flavors of umami? Prior to the year 1908, we have no record of the term umami, which was coined by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda: literally, a pleasant, savory taste. It wasn’t until 1985 that umami was recognized as a true scientific term related to the presence of glutamates and nucleotides – a gustatory sensation which coated the tongue, was long-lasting, and caused one to salivate. This definition, however, is only the tip of the taste iceberg: also categorized as brothy and/or meaty, it encompasses the following foods as well – shellfish, fish sauce, mushrooms, dashi, yeast extracts, kimchi, cheeses, olives, red wines from warm regions, and soy sauce, to name but a few.

Emmanuelle at Mane Tasting Orris Root as part of the creation of UMEMA

“Since I cannot smell, I put everything in my mouth like a baby—things that you don’t eat normally,” Emmanuelle recounts. “Like orris. It’s the root of a flower, and the most expensive thing you can put in a perfume. I put it in my mouth. And I made Ugo taste it, too.” ~ Emmanuelle Dancourt, on creating UMEMA.

Anosmia may be a congenital condition, as Mme. Dancourt’s is: only 1% of the population falls into this classification, and they lack an olfactory bulb – a disorder known as Kallmann Syndrome, which is accompanied by delayed puberty and hormonal repercussions. The remaining 5-10% of affected individuals may have acquired ‘nose blindness’ due to illness (the common cold, allergies, Covid, nasal polyps, traumatic brain injury, diabetes, advancing dementia, Huntington’s Disease). Sometimes surgical intervention may alleviate the worst symptoms, as in the case with nasal polyps (which, unfortunately, usually grow back). As we have witnessed, many who lose their sense of smell post-Covid regain it – either partially or wholly. Most of my career has been spent working with neuroscientists and brain-injured populations. Unfortunately, traumatically brain injured patients rarely recover their sense of smell – and one of the first warning signs of dementia is the loss of olfactory acuity and recognition. The positive, if one may say it – is that those who are congenitally anosmic do not have an increased risk of developing dementia – unlike the acquired anosmia of the neurologically injured. A mixed blessing, but one nonetheless.

 translation of UMEMA into a pastry form courtesy of Ugo Charron.

I’m fascinated and empathetic when Emmanuelle shares her childhood experiences of putting everything in her mouth and feeling the intense need to touch everything in her exploration of the senses she does possess. Our circumstances were polar opposite; I was/am hypervigilant, and compensated for poor visual acuity by sharing the same behaviors, with the annoying (to my family) addition of smelling everything in my vicinity. In an attempt to replicate some of her analysis, the second thing I did after smelling UMEMA was to taste it – multiple times. My observation is that the fragrance is palatable: to me, it tastes more floral/slightly gourmand than my customary umami expectations. Granted, there is always a touch of bitterness which may well be attributed to bergamot, galbanum, the dusty cacao, mate absolute, or any of the materials which Monsieur Charron employs. One is aware of the hazelnut, the jammy fir – which certainly further a gourmand presence. While I have experienced red seaweed Jungle Essence™ and its propensity to contribute a salty olfactory nuance to fragrance, I don’t taste it as such. My impression is that the considerable skill of the perfumer has resulted in a more symphonic representation of umami – one which he has reached collaboratively with Mme. Dancourt. It is unique to them each and both, and they understand this better than I am able. For me, UMEMA is an Impressionist Umami fragrance, one which is composed with a pronounced sense of balance, amalgamating the tangy, animalic black currant with fruity rose, earthy elements (orris, mate, cacao, vegetal musk, umami accord), and the verdancy of galbanum and fir. No one material supersedes another in the process, which is why it would be an Impressionist painting (to my way of thinking) both savory and somewhat sweet – if paintings were edible.

UMEMA is really a lovely perfume – one which stands on its own merits as a wearable art form: sensitive, fascinating, and extraordinary. Its beauty is only enhanced by the compelling back story and the fact that 100% of the proceeds from it sale will benefit research, study, and those individuals who live with anosmia on a day-to-day basis. I can’t imagine a nobler purchase in recent memory.

Notes: blackcurrant bud absolute, red seaweed Jungle Essence™, bergamot oil, mate absolute, umami accord, galbanum oil, Rose Superessence, Hazelnut Neo Jungle Essence™, cacao resinoid, vegan musk, orris concrete, fir balsam absolute.

UMEMA, a perfume for everybody, will be available for purchase at perfumarie.com, tasteandsmell.world, and at the Museum of Food & Drink (mofad.org). One hundred percent of the proceeds will benefit the World Taste & Smell Association, and anosmie.org in the EU.

Sample generously provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

We have one ounce of UMEMA for a registered reader in the USA or EU. You must be a registered reader. Please leave a comment regarding what intrigued you in Ida’s article, and where you live. Draw closes 10/22/2024

To better understand Mme. Dancourt’s condition and the creative process she and Ugo Charron embarked upon together, please read here. Please familiarize yourselves with Elise Pearlstine’s article here.

Ugo Charron was Michelyn’s rising star of 2022 and UMEMA was her best collaboration

Please read his path to perfumery in our Young Perfumer Series

Editor’s Note: UMEMA was conceived in 2022 where it was presented at the World Perfumery Congress, finalized in 2023 and offered for sale in 2024 according to Ugo Charron -Michelyn

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