Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019 (Ermano Picco) +Part 2 Draw

The 11th edition of Esxence was a blast of new perfumes to discover from both well-established and upcoming brands in the niche market. It’s my 11th year of Esxence and as long time press attendee, I tend to focus on spending quality time to get in touch with faces I mostly see via web, but want to meet in person. I was happy to see new members of the CaFleureBon team, especially dana sandu of a_nose_knows and Clayton Ilolahia of What Men Should Smell Like (both who I never met before). I believe that Esxence 2019 was a record for the highest presence of VLoggers and “influencers”, and it was a little bit of a shock for me. I hope as a fragrance community we will all care  more about learning and endorsing beautiful perfumery than about growing followers on Instagram.

Palazzina Appiani ceiling

This year’s inspiration FLOW focused on that perfect moment when inspiration comes unexpected and thoughts are crystal-clear flowing unimpeded. That moment is here and now, at least for the players featured in this report. Speaking of crystal-clear, this year’s party at the stunning neoclassic Palazzina Appiani will be surely remembered for its huge crystal chandeliers hanging by the frescoed ceilings over the most creative heads in perfumeland.

Michael Edwards  at Esxence 2019

I saw many new releases …some from established and some newcomers playing shamelessly safe with more commercial scents , or to say it in the flawless words of Michael Edwards, exhibiting “derivative fragrances.” In a market where, flanker after flanker,  the shelves are flooded with homogenous  offerings this is the breaking point between niche 2.0 and new niche inspired commercial perfumes.

Nishane NEFS

 It was impossible to visit all the booths and smell everything in four days, so here are the most noticeable Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019 I experienced walking around the show. Taking a breath while entering The Mall says it all: now that real and Swiss oud leaked all over from the most expensive attar to the cheapest shower gel, the first of the Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019: we can finally say goodbye to oud as a main player. Even cultivated Middle-Eastern customers now look for less obvious fragrances where this raw material is just another wood in the perfumer’s palette. The ultimate reply to their needs is Nishane NEFS (referring to the desire of the soul in Turkish) and comes from Cristian Carbonnel who composed a boozy, fruity, playful oriental with just a pinch of oud.

Timeless Elegance is one of the welcome trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019.   This is bringing back a taste for European compositions updated by the latest raw materials sliding in thanks to the mastery of experienced Master perfumers. The epitome of this is the new line signed by the Grasse born (in 1946) Maître Parfumeur Lucien Ferrero. As I confessed to his Italian distributor Roberto Drago (founder of Kaon and Laboratorio Olfattivo),  there is refinement of compositions like the gorgeously waxy leather Lucien Ferrero pour Lui together with the love for sandalwood that makes Ferrero’s signature worth of Jean Kerléo’s most exquisite creations for Jean Patou. Walking down the UBI France area in the show I was won over by L’Aterier français des matières; founder Rémi Pulverais’ philosophy is to pursue an almost made to measure excellence… from the quest for uncommon raw materials to the final product as a remedy to the flattening of perfumery. Their Les Indemodables collection smells gorgeously French with a certain je ne sais quoi and Cuir de Chine smote me with its osmanthus loaded rendition of the 1919 Tabac Blond fierceness.

The search for a new gourmand pallete in perfumes is the first evident departure from naïve stickiness and this is one of the most important Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019. The result is a grown-up Umami Bite that mixes creaminess or sweetness with an uber-chic savory twist that makes the latest mouthwatering addiction you’ll be craving. The crunchy praline-tobacco Spyros Drosopoulos releases with Barurti Perverso (reviewed earlier by dana) is a good example of this sweet’n salty sexiness. When not outspokenly gourmand, this savory mellowness breathes new life to benzoin and vanilla accords, like in the magnolia and rose laden nouveau chypre  Kintsugi by Vanina Muracciole for Masque Milano(reviewed by Ida Meister). This seaweed vibe  conjures biting sundrenched skin as a cuddling treat,  as in in the clean musky SWIM/SX from Pierre Guillaume.

Olfactive Studio Violet Shot was one fo the best at the show

 Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019 include Florals which are in full bloom. They focus on soliflores, and some of the best come from Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena in his career post Hermes. The recognition from the UNESCO to the perfumery craftsmanship in Grasse as immaterial patrimony of humanity translates in a rediscover of precious rose de Mai and jasmine.

Ellena signs for Perris Montecarlo two beautiful soliflores with Jasmin de Pays being the shining gem with its youthfully pulpy muskiness. Again by Ellena, Laboratorio Olfattivo Baliflora (part of the new Masters Collection) tames lush frangipani sensuality with a serene lily and orange blossom bouquet. Back to Lucien Ferrero,  his Seringa brings a ravishing sparkling take on the classic lilac soliflore. To complete the trio of masters of flowers, let me add the cheeky, slightly leathery Violet Shot created by Dominique Ropion for Olfactive Studio.

Zest is Best (or new twist on Citrus) is a most noticeable trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019 with classic or modern takes on a well-known classification. On the classic side, Antoine Lie adds one more gem  with  Puredistance Aenotus, a juicy bunch of oranges, mandarins, lemons and yuzu refreshed by petitgrain and backed by a solid masculine fougère base. On the modern side, HomoElegans’ Like a Jewel by Luca Maffei sparkles with a ginger pillar exuding both the lemony fizz and the earthiness of the root, smoothed by a pear-like luscious rosiness. One could expect a scent inspired by Freddie Mercury to be more flamboyant maybe, but this exotic sparkling glam (as they define it) seems to play more on his silvery voice and Farsi-Indian familial background.

Extrait d’Atelier Maitre Jardinier

One new trend that is very important to bring up is Mending Broken Nature, which not only means to reconnect with nature, but also reconnecting with ourselves, finding a new inner balance as part of the nature. Reocurring hues of this pattern are coniferous notes ranging from the classic cedarwood to cypress, passing by the mellowness of fir balsam with grassy touches of violet leaves, campfire hints and aromatic herbs to amplify the outdoors connection. Amazing examples of this trend are  to be found in the elegant Italian garden of Extrait d’Atelier Maitre Jardinier trimmed by Bertrand Duchaufour or the more urban-zen escape of Calè Liberamente by Maurizio Cerizza which features a special extraction of spirulina, an alga also used as a diary supplement.

Maison Rebatchi,  Uèrmi  and Tonatto were standouts

Alienor Massenet explores in the new Maison Rebatchi Tassili the complex violet leaves absolute, from green leaves to tea, from hay to leather. More on the spiritual side, Meo Fusciuni Spirito (reviewed by Danu Seith Fyr) exudes meditative angelica bitterness while Anima Mundi takes inspiration by druidic spring rituals for Triskel.

Speaking of new brands, one of the best discoveries was Plumage Parfums, a line inspired by the love for birds of the founder where each scent renders the plumage of a specific bird embodying its textures, colors and temper. Even the delicate lactonic-floral musk Ciel Blanc dedicated to the dove exudes uncommon grace.

Last but not least, I have news on amazing previews. Antonio Alessandria introduced me to his next fragrance to be released next fall: it’s an  amazing aldehydic incense backed by a sweet-toothed Sicilian torrone base inspired by his childhood memories during the Patronal Feast. Second I put my nose on Mme Patricia de Nicolai upcoming Parfums de Nicolai Cuir Bajkal, a leathery fougère celebrating the 30 years of the brand with a more modern, spicy twist that won’t disappoint the younger fans. I have to thank perfumer Thierry Bernard who I met during the show for introducing me to the brand L’Orchestre, whose next release will be named Bouquet Encore: a radiant, fruity tuberose plugged straight into the amplifier by Pierre Gueros. Perfect for an electronic festival.

Ermano Picco, Editor (with contributions from Michelyn)

Michelyn, Ermano and Ida

Please read Editor-in-Chief and Senior Editor Ida Meister’s report and you can still enter the draw they have for samples here. If you leave a comment on your thoughts on Ermano’s Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019, your previous comment will count twice. You must be a registered reader so please do so here. Draw closes 5/10/2019

all photos by Ermano©

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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51 comments

  • Vlach says:

    Thanks for the fascinating lookout on the new trends. I hope there will be many reviews on the mentioned fragrances here to come soon, too many of them sound very intriguing. I am most interested in the trend „mending broken nature“ – I think it’s great to see that everywhere we as humankind seem to wake up and try to rethink  our situation and purpose.

  • DulciusExAsperis says:

    Super interesting and though i love oud, I am a bit relieved that that particular trend is going by the wayside, it seems we have one million and one excellent ouds from which to choose. Although I am surprised that gourmand seems to be the hot pick of the moment as I thought we'd see more classic chypres reemerge. 

  • Gail says:

    So interesting and informative, Ermano!  Your report was thorough and  fascinating.  I found the new trends in gourmand to be especially interesting.  

  • NiceVULady says:

    Loved your report and your spin on the new trends in fragrance.   Kintsugi has two of the notes that I especially love.  

  • Claudia Kroyer says:

    Interesting and informative. Nice to know where the trend is heading. 

  • fazalcheema says:

    Good to know Michael Edwards is still active and advancing knowledge of perfumery. When I saw picture of Lucien Ferrero stand and read just the word Lucien, for a moment I was excited because I thought it is a resurrection of Lucien Lelong brand 🙂

  • Doni Light says:

    Have to agree with Rémi Pulverais' philosophy, as well as the theme of 'mending broken nature.'  Difficult to do if perfumery really is flattening as Ermano intimated.  Plumage seems to be a popular one!  But too bad oud had such a short stint.  Was sort of hoping it would keep the masses from receeding into the all-too familiar maison d'ennui.  Who knows – maybe that'll be the next hit brand name eh?

  • audesko1 says:

    Love all the new fragrances and houses that I have not heard of.  How do we try them all?  Loved all the photos too!  Violet shopt is something I need to try.  Thanks again for the chance.  USA

  • bigscoundrel says:

    I'm always playing catch-up with fragrance trends. Ermano has really been very informative and is helping me stay on top of the emerging trends. US.

  • INYA says:

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts and pics. My "to try" list us definitely getting longer. I'll be looking into Masque Milano's and Nishane's new releases. USA 

  • Cynthia says:

    Plumage Perfums again! I am so intrigued! I hope there is a review planned for this line!

  • Alen says:

    Thank you for the nice and informative report. A lot of new houses that i’ve never heard of, and i would love to try them. Also i cannot wait to smell the new fragrances from Nishane and Masque Milano, fantastic houses.

  • Salem says:

    I was glad to read about the “old trends” becoming the “new trends”, with oud being cast one step back to give room to the more traditional, French styled perfumes. I really enjoy oud, but I felt like there already was a very big range of ouds to choose from on the market in the past couple of years. So I’m looking forward to smell the new wave of whatever will come. I was also happy to read gourmands stopped being sickly sweet and became more salty, savory and multifaceted. Grazie Ermano for your impressions!

  • JH says:

    Thank you Ermano for this report! I love the house of Nicolaï and will always wait with impatience for their new releases, although the description of "modern", "young", "spicey", "fougere" makes me fear it would turn out to be one of those disgusting woody ambers so popular right now. Hopefully Mme de Nicolaï will do better than that!

  • Timea says:

    Thank you for this wonderful article! It would be so good to trying all of those wonderful fragrances. Thank you very much for the chance! EU.

  • Old Herbaceous says:

    Great report, thank you! I'm excited about the renewed focus on florals, which are always my favorites. I enjoyed your description of the trends, especially "Mending Broken Nature"; your description of those scents really appealed to me. I live in the US; thanks for this draw.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    It is always interesting to see which things caught people’s eyes at these huge events. I am definitely excited to get my hands on the newest Baruti as well as to smell the Violet Shot from Olfactive Studio. Thanks for the chance to smell some of these! I’m in the US. 

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Thank you for this review. It is so exciting to hear about the new perfumers and trends. I am so intrigued by Umami Bite. I hope one day I have the opportunity to try this one. A savory take on gourmand sounds so interesting. 

  • yukon1 says:

    Great article ,thanks  . So there is a few that I really like  Puredistance Aenotus, a juicy bunch of oranges, mandarins, lemons and yuzu sounds like a wonderful citrus and all the Pure distance I tried were really nice….And like a jewel the freddy mercury fragrance 🙂 Anyway appreciate the write up draw ….thank you very much.
    Canada here….

  • lilacdays says:

    Many thanks for your sum up of the Esxence.

    I'm particularly interested in the new artistic perfumery trends: new gourmand and florals. At the same time, I can't deny that i'm delighted to read about the goodbye to oud as a trend. 

    With regards to new gourmands, I'm definitely looking forward to try out Barurti Perverso. Currently, I'm also experiencing a florals period and I can't wait to try out Jean-Claude Ellena work for Perris Montecarlo, especially Jasmin du Pays.

    To be honest, after reading the previous review from Ida meister where she raved about Jasmin du Pays, I went directly to Perris Montecarlo counter in Paris to try out this soliflore. Unfortunately, they didn-t have it yet. Damn it 🙂

     

     

     

  • marcopietro says:

    Thanks Ermano for the exhaustive and interesting report, many suggestions as always appetizing, for my personal tastes I cannot resist to Nishane NEFS or Baruti Perverso. I am in EU.

  • Crazyperfumelover says:

    Thank you for all these great trends especially mending broken nature, the Perris Monte Carlo Jasmine de Pays, Nishane Nefs,

    Plumage Parfums and the new  Parfums De Nicolai cuir Bakjal

  • helenlam says:

    The new gourmands is the trend I'm most interested in seeing what happens with it. Also I'm looking forward to the Masters series too. Always good to know what's coming down the pipeline!

  • Steve A. says:

    Goodbye oud as a main player, you've served us well. Always interesting to read these and live vicariously. US

  • KWMonty says:

    I think the new trends could be interesting, but my taste tends to go towards darker, more daring fragrances and I didn't see anything mentioned of perfumes like that. I would love to get the chance to to check out these perfumes and see if there are some that I would like to add to my collection. Thanks for that opportunity. Canada

  • KWMonty says:

    By the way, everyone should check out the Esxence TV YouTube channel. They have many great videos about the 2019 show.

  • Naz says:

    Thank you for the interesting report. I had the impression already since two years that there is a lot mainstream influence what’s sold as niche perfume nowadays. And that it is getting more and more difficult to find true niche these days. The fragrances you have introduced in both reports sound very interesting. I am happy that the floral theme is trending as it is one of my favorite genres.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I am so curious how they will work a more savory aspect into a gourmand.  So happy to see that oud is on it's way out.  I'd love to try these samples to find a new "love".  Thanks for the chance and the highlights of the show.  USA.  

  • samppahoo says:

    The “mending broken nature” part was very inspiring. I don’t know if that also means leaning on natural and eco perfumery instead of classic one more, but even the fact that perfumery nowadays inspires from natural elements more is very interesting, and a positive thing in my opinion. I love naturalistic green and forest notes.

  • adrienne says:

    Very intrigued by Plumage perfumes. Also the new citrus scents! Thanks for chance to try so many scents!

  • mmkpa says:

    Very excited to hear about a new Nicolai, I am a huge fan of the line.  Also excited that oud is on its way out as a main player – I have never been a big oud fan. Excited to try new soliflores and zest!  Yum! USA.

  • Michael Prince says:

    All of the fragrances mentioned from Esxence 2019 sound amazing. One fragrance I am interested in is Nishane Nefs,  a modern oriental which is an Oriental that is boozy, with touches of honey, fig, and florals.  I am a subscriber from the USA.

  • aprilo says:

    I am so enjoying these posts so that I can live vicariously through your Esxence  experiences! Olfactive Studio Violet Shot is now on my radar, I'll be watching for that one among several others! Thank you for the inspiration, live in the US.

  • recursivemask says:

    Thank you for covering this event, for those of us who can't go to one this is the next best thing! I'm sad to see oud go, I hardly knew it, and it's deep bitterness is something I love.

  • aurora_ru says:

    Thank you for sharing your impressions. After reading it, another Nishane on my list to try!

  • BetsyG says:

    The trend that caught my eye in this review is Mending Broken Nature. I’ve been doing a lot of gardening lately, so green scents are what I’m feeling right now. Extrait d’Atelier Maitre Jardinier sounds particularly fascinating. This review also affirmed my interest in Like a Jewel from HomoElegans! Thank you for the reviews of Esxence 2019 (an event that I would like to attend in the future, “influencers” or not) and the draw.

  • m3000 says:

    Thanks so much for describing your experiences in Milano and drawing our attention to perfumes and houses. I will look out for Violet Shot for sure.

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading this roundup. I like learning about the trends, especially Timeless Elegance.

    I am especially interested in HomoElegans’ Like a Jewel. I enjoy ginger a lot. I’ve heard about this house and their wonderful fragrances. I hope I cab try on e this year.

    I live in the USA.

  • kb1993 says:

    These all sound so interesting and wonderful as I said on the other post I would only dream of getting to go to this event.I especially loved reading about the gourmands as I always do

  • Diana D says:

    I have been wanting a Nishane perfume. I love the description of Nishane NEFS.
    I live in the US.

  • Ben says:

    I am going to comment on both. I love these events and plan to go next year, I feel like i missed out ! I have to say that Berruti pervurso stands out to me and i yearn for it. I also find it appealing that voilet is returning and being used tactfully, since I quite like it. Brilliant and fun post and I love in the USA.

  • Vahagn says:

    I read as hungry man every your reviews from Excense 2019.
    I am curious about legendary Ellena’s Jasmin de Pays, and new Nishane perfumes.
    Violet Shot sounds very interesting. I would like to test Rebatchi too.
    US

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    I, too, am relieved that oud domination is on its way out, it has just become all so overwhelming. Plumage Parfums’s offerings interest me, thank you for introducing them to us and I will seek out samples.

  • Dosva says:

    I hope one tine I can visit Esxence. So many nice perfumes. I want to know all of them, but at first clean musky SWIM/SX from Pierre Guillaume, Nicolai Cuir Bajkal- WOW… leathery fragrance by Patricia Nicolai !!!
    USA

  • JozefJak says:

    I’m so happy that actual trends are coming back to classic perfumery. The renaissance of fougere, chypre and cologne styles with a modern twist is great for my taste. Also the coming back to the florals in man’s perfumery is so wonderful. Thanks for the draw. I live in Poland.

  • strangedim says:

    Really informative overview. I hope we’ll read soon some individual reviews, many new creations seem so special. Thank you all for sharing your impressions.

  • sowa says:

    I am happy to hear that „we can finally say goodbye to oud as a main player”. Except for a few fragrances where you can smell real wonderful multidimensional oud, it is not my favorite ingredient. In most cases a pungent aromamolecule created to resemble oud made me sick.
    Based on Ermano’s report I am mostly interested in a radiant, fruity tuberose perfect for an electronic festival – Bouquet Encore, meditative angelica bitterness of Meo Fusciuni’s Spirito and sweet’n salty sexiness of Baruti’s Perverso. Plumage Parfums with fragrances that reflect the bird’s plumage promise an exciting experience. I live in the EU.

  • Caliwas says:

    I love the article and my thoughts on Ermano’s Trends in Artistic Perfumery at Esxence 2019 is it is true that a lot of perfumers are playing it safe with fragrances. I see perfumer as an art, I am a frag head and love this site! I live in USA, CA.