The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique (Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron) + Postmodern Giveaway

 

 The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique

 The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique bottle, Photo by Rachel K. Ng

 “Knowing the individual behind the flacon… talking about the “nose,” no pun intended, really adds a certain humanity… Perfume remains a platform or terrain of exchange [between the sniffer and the creator]”.  – François Demachy in Les Parfumeurs

Christophe Laudamiel The Zoo®

Christophe Laudamiel, Smelling A Colleague at Olfactory Art Keller Gallery, courtesy of Christophe

I often wonder whether perfumery has fully experienced postmodernism as an art form. The world of perfume, as most experience it today, is a fully modernist project. Science-based and market-driven, the industrial engine behind our beloved Art maintains steady progress into the future. For me, perhaps the most interesting aspect of modernist projects is how our perceptions become mediated by technical operations. As technological expertise increases, it removes every-day wisdom from our social understandings of the world around us. We experience a “loss of meaning” or de-realization of the world. Does it really matter if one doesn’t understand exactly how the circuitry in the remote control works? Is it important that car engines are too complex for us to fix ourselves anymore? Is it interesting that we usually can’t pin down what it means when there is a “rose” note in a perfume?

Olfactory Art Keller

Christophe’s Art Installation “Scent Paraboles against racism influencing odor perception” Olfactory Art Keller Gallery, courtesy of Christophe

Enter the Avant-Garde. Sometimes the process of questioning is the most important part of the journey, not necessarily arriving at an all-encompassing answer. Exciting spaces in our perfume community are exploring hyperreality and simulacre in perfume, interrogating concepts like univocity of meaning and epistemic certainty in fragrance, and much more (venture to Olfactory Art Keller Gallery in New York or take a class at The Institute of Art and Olfaction in Los Angeles). When I want to think about and experience the potentials of innovation (neuroscience, ambient, etc.) and be given a direct view into the Art of Technology in perfumery, I look no further than the work of Christophe Laudamiel. Laudamiel is the rarest of minds. Here is a creator with the industry knowledge, internal ethical drive, limitless curiosity, and raw talent to subvert expectations and give the fragrance community things we couldn’t have anticipated.

best tuberose perfumes

Tuberoses courtesy of Unsplash collage Michelyn

 The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique is just such an avant-garde fragrance, a play on how our sensory perceptions are mediated by the technical operations of perfumery (but this time, we are let in on the intellectual joy as well as the visceral pleasure). The Zoo® is Christophe Laudamiel’s own brand and interdisciplinary workshop of ideas, artists, and experts. Tubereuse Organique is a resulting collaboration by Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron, currently a junior perfumer at MANE. According to the perfumers, “this fragrance evokes the reality of being in a tuberose field, yet is itself a tuberose fantasy since it does not contain any natural tubereuse extract… [Its inspiration was] a dream of a tuberose that smells like fresh dewy blossoms that everyone loves, say on a bright spring morning… not old, not tuberosy, not artificial.” The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique is not indolic, carnal, heady, nor bubblegum sweet. This tuberose is the fresh experience of what rises into the air: milky solar petals, stemmy green and woody stalk, hints of soil. When I smell Tubereuse Organique, the word that keeps coming back is raw: that’s how powerful the experience is… pure articulation.

Ugo Charron and Christo

Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron at the World Perfumery Congress accepting the 2022 Art and Olfaction award for Grandiflora Saskia, Photo courtesy of Minetta Rogers, Institute of Art and Olfaction

Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron invite us “to be a part of the project”. The Zoo® website explains how they reconstruct the tuberose note with Lavandin LMR, Egyptian Jasmine absolute, and organic-certified Tequila. “The tuberose  plant is of the same family as the agave plant, and those quenching tequila notes fit perfectly for a je-ne-sais-quoi so shiny and exhilarating.” A chilled booziness with fruity undertone comes from 123 Organic Tequila made by David Ravandi, a veteran craftsman in the world of artisanal tequila. The perfumers lift us into the air with terpenic Lavandin then delight us with a kind of creamy Wedgewood porcelain innovation. They take a dusty classic tuberose and fire it in the heat of Tequila, creating ceramic texture as the tuberose rests in a cool grace on skin. Tuberose is recast in porcelain. We are then brought down the aquiline stems` of green oakmoss and patchouli into the wood-damp earth of ambrette. Tubereuse Organique is a beautiful, innovative fragrance that I find a joy to wear. Further, it expands the terrain of what olfactive art can make visible, sensate, thinkable, even felt across people and time.

Notes: Organic Tequila, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Iso-Eugenol, Oakmoss Extract (Evernia prunastri), Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Eugenol, Vetiver Certified For Life, Benzyl Alcohol, Lavandin Certified Organic, Patchouli Certified For Life, Farnesol, Jasmin Grandiflorum, Hibiscus Moschatus, Angelica Seeds, Tagete

Bottle my own, opinions my own.

~ Rachel K. Ng, Contributor

Tubereuse Organique The Zoo® 

photo of The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique courtesy of Christophe

Thanks to Master Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel we have a 60 ml bottle of  The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique by for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader worldwide with the exception of Brazil, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Spain and China, (if you are not sure if you are registered click here – you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). Christophe will also include a very special sample of pure tuberose (solvent extracted absolute) so the winner can compare the real material!  To be eligible please leave a comment on this site with what strikes you about The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique and where you live. Draw Closes 3/22/23

Christophe Laudamiel is a master perfumer for DreamAir studios in New York City and Bélair Lab in Tokyo

My Fragrant Awakening on The Zoo® Everlasting here

Please also spend time with Editor Emeritus Robert Herrmann (RIP) 2017 reviews of The Zoo® Spacewood and Rhubarb My Love Here

Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen named Christophe Laudamiel to the CaFleureBon Hall of Fame 2021

Senior Contributor and NYC Brand Ambassador Hernando Courtright’s article RUBEN MUSUEM SCENT EXPERIENCES with Christophe Laudamiel

Please read Hernando’s interview with Andreas Keller of Olfactory Art Keller

Enjoy Editor Elise Pearlstine’s Tasting Scent and Touching Perfume featuring Ugo Charron

Ugo Charron was Michelyn’s Rising Star of 2022

Christophe and Ugo won a 2022 Art and Olfaction Award for Grandiflora Saskia

The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique was released in 2019

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @rachel.k.ng @christophelaudameil @ugoartperfume

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so “like” ÇaFleureBon and use our  blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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54 comments

  • Tuberose is a material I have a love or hate type of relationship with. I often find it to be too heady, too musty, too white-floral-y. It can be such an overdose of those white floral components (like in Frank Boclet’s Cocaine). However, I absolutely adore when it is vibrant, semi-green, and fresh/floral (as it appears in Memo Paris’ Marfa or Rogue’s Tuberose and Moss), which is what seems to be the case here. Rachel describes its greenness, the stemmy facets, and the light florals as they waft in the air rather than what you would get from shoving your nose into the flower. That sounds lovely to me, as does the fruitiness added by the tequila they have chosen here. All in all, this just soudns like a wonderfully unique fragrance. Thank you for giving us this opportunity. reading from NC, USA.

  • I’m struck by the idea that Laudamiel & Charron have managed to create a tuberose that feels raw and organic despite intentionally avoiding the use of actual tuberose — evoking something even more strongly than it can evoke itself, a fascinating exploration of the hyperreal in perfumery. I especially love that a pure tuberose extract will also be included so we can compare for ourselves. I live in New York, USA!

  • RonaldProkes17 says:

    Wow! I am so glad that there’s another Laudamiel fragrance giveaway. And what was super interesting about this fragrance in particular is how transparent and inviting Christophe is. It’s such a cool idea to give people the opportunity to smell the actual raw material extract to compare. There really is nowhere to hide when you do that. Furthermore, I am super interested in the interplay between Tuberose, Jasmine and the actual tequila note. That sounds so playful and lively to me. On top of that I am a big tuberose fan, so I am hooked!

    I am in California, USA.

  • What strikes me most about Tubereuse organique is that it’s ‘not indolic, carnal, heady, nor bubblegum sweet. This tuberose is the fresh experience of what rises into the air: milky solar petals, stemmy green and woody stalk, hints of soil’ – that sounds absolutely stunning! I am also intrigued by the combination of lavandin, jasmine and tequila in order to obtain the same scent profile of natural tuberose.
    Last but not least, I would love to smell the sample of pure tuberose; I have essential oils from many flowers and tuberose, as much as I adore it, is not one of them. Perhaps because it’s much more precious and difficult to extract into an essence?
    Commenting from Denmark – thanks for the draw!

  • The perfume bottle displayed “on the rocks” cracked me up! I have often thought about how as a very occasional social drinker in her twenties, I have almost certainly spent more money on alcohol for fragrance purposes versus imbibement. What a coincidence that agave and tuberose are related to each other. I am such a sucker for tuberose fragrances. While I am in no way repulsed by the heady, indolic qualities of tuberose, I am very much intrigued to experience the pure tuberose absolute alongside The Zoo Tubereuse Organique to pick up on the differences between the reality of the flower and the idealized, dreamy version of the flower.
    My gratitude to Christophe Laudamiel for the most generous draw and an opportunity to try something new!
    Indiana, USA

  • Victor Hinojosa says:

    Came from Mr. Smelly1977 live stream where I learned about this fragrance from Rachel. I had no idea tuberose was related to the agave plant. Intriguing.

  • The fact this quality and realism can be achieved without any natural extract is striking indeed.
    From Ireland

  • Laura Thompson says:

    I have been into fragrance for about 20 years. I love to read your articles because I have such a hard time breaking down notes and articulating… well…most everything. It would be very cool to compare the fragrance with actual absolute. Maybe it would help me on my quest to understand tubereuse and the interpretation of tubereuse. Spring 2023 has been all about tubereuse for me. I’ve added several bottles to my collection in the past few weeks and read with much enthusiasm about this one. I had no idea tubereuse was related to agave. I am very drawn to boozy notes and the combination sounds sublime!
    Thanks for the opportunity!!!
    ~ Laura in Sachse, Texas!

  • I will always love when compositions are made in a non-linear way by trying to achieve it’s destination by taking detours that require masterfully crafted elements and knowledge of them, wether it is without the -material- itself or by doing so in a way to recreate and enhance it, which in this case would be the tubereuse (I imagine that it also took an extensive testing of various bottles of tequila, which is a bonus, I guess).

    Evenmore so when this (re)recreation of the tubereuse is created in a way that adds roundness and a more unique profile without giving up it’s constitutives characteristiques, it silently speaks volumes about the dedication and delicasi of the task they took at hand.

    At this time I’m living in Concepción, Chile.

  • a beautiful, innovative fragrance that I find a joy to wear. Further, it expands the terrain of what olfactive art can make visible, sensate, thinkable, even felt across people and time.

    Notes: Organic Tequila, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Iso-Eugenol, Oakmoss Extract (Evernia prunastri), Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Eugenol, Vetiver. I am intrigued by the notes especially tequila this sounds like a magical concoction I really want need to explore this house further. Thanks a million from the UK

  • The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique is not indolic, carnal, heady, nor bubblegum sweet. This tuberose is the fresh experience of what rises into the air: milky solar petals, stemmy green and woody stalk, hints of soil. When I smell Tubereuse Organique, the word that keeps coming back is raw: that’s how powerful the experience is… pure articulation. A beautiful description by Rachel has piqued my interest in this house. Thanks a lot from the United Kingdom

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    I am addicted to touberose!
    I love touberose and when I see a touberose I want it!
    Interesting description of tuberose by the author explains how they reconstruct the tuberose note with Lavandin LMR, Egyptian Jasmine absolute, and organic-certified Tequila.
    : “The tuberose plant is of the same family as the agave plant, and those quenching tequila notes fit perfectly for a je-ne-sais-quoi so shiny and exhilarating.”
    I am from Europe

  • LovelyMouse says:

    What strikes me most about this perfume that the uniqueness of The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique comes from the blend of the earthiness of tuberose with the freshness of orange blossom and the spiciness of black pepper. The result is a scent that is both fresh and intoxicating. And also that it was inspired by the concept of hyperreality, which is the blurring of the boundaries between the real and the virtual world. Which is so contemporary! The use of natural and synthetic ingredients in The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique is a testament to the art of perfumery. The blending of these ingredients requires a deep understanding of the chemistry of scents and the ability to create a unique and harmonious blend. The result is a perfume that is both complex and elegant. It must be so beautiful!
    And thanks to Christophe for including the real raw component – sample of a tuberose, so thoughtfully, it is always interesting to compare perfume to the real ingredients and find out the artistic though of a perfumer.

    Greetings from Germany

  • adil mjaoui says:

    it seems a great job done here, a huge invisible bouquet of everlasting tuberose that will follow you everywhere, i love tuberose in perfumery, Short of always having a gorgeous bouquet of flowers sitting on the dining room table, I’d wear this all day.
    From France

  • It struck me how perfumery is wild in that you can create an entire illusion of a scent without one drop of the actual ingredient. I would love to smell this side by side with tuberose absolute. Thank you for the giveaway, writing from the EU.

  • “The ultimate sophistication lies in the virtuoso handling of artifice to create a natural feeling of poetry.” I want to win this perfume because this part of the text: “The Zoo® Tubereuse Organique is not indolic, carnal, heady, nor bubblegum sweet. This tuberose is the fresh experience of what rises into the air: milky solar petals, stemmy green and woody stalk, hints of soile” really says what I’m looking for in a signature scent to wear every day and I can’t find if on top of that the hold and the sillage are huge then Organic Tubereuse is the perfection I’m looking for For years!

  • This sounds flat-out amazing! I love tuberoses across the board, but I tend to LOVE those perfumes that capture the whole plant plus the ground underneath, as Rachel says this one does. Smelling pure tuberose extract would also be a real treat. I’m in Connecticut, USA. Thank you for the great review!!

  • I like the way the tuberose note was reconstructed here and how this is supposed to be an avant-garde fragrance. I live in Bulgaria, EU. Thanks.

  • I love tuberose and the most realistic representation of the flower i’ve smelled to this day is carnal flower. curious to see how laudamiels version compares to it. also very intrigued by the use of tequila in the perfume. live in the US (Illinois to be specific)

  • Margie Noire says:

    Love Rachel’s description of Tuberose Organique. Can’t wait to sniff this someday soon.

  • I just don’t have enough experience with Tuberose. I do own Nuit De Bakelite which I love, but my husband doesn’t and it’s not a fragrance I can wear often or to work so I have avoided Tuberose. After reading this I do need to explore more, the paragraph of what this tuberose is and what it is not has piqued my interest. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • I haven’t been on a tuberose field, so I’m very curious about how Tubereuse Organique smells. It’s has very interesting notes, the tequila note sounds yummy. I would love to compare it with the tuberose absolute sample. Kind regards from Mexico!

  • Wow, this one The Zoo Tubereuse Organique sound so very different! This scientifically achieved tuberose sound like it is expanding how we think of perfume.
    I’m in eu

  • What a fascinating note list with the first ingredient being tequila! I live tuberose but rarely find fragrances featuring that floral well done. I’m impressed that Christopher Laudamiel and Ugo Charron were able to create a convincing tuberose with jasmine and tequila. I also did not know that tuberose was in the agave family, so learn something knew every day! I’ve also tried Fig My Love from the Zoo and was so impressed by that composition. Would love to try Tuberouse Organique. MD, USA.

  • Avrielle Ali says:

    It’s amazing that this can evoke tuberose without any natural tuberose included. The way Christophe Laudamiel truly did something new and interesting is a beautiful adventure in perfumery.
    Reading from Virginia, USA.

  • Rachel Ng’s review of Zoo® Tubereuse Organique painted a picture of a very avant-garde perfume. Sometimes I can’t make sense of contemporary, avant-garde art, but then with some education and art appreciation classes or lectures etc. it starts to make sense and I appreciate how all art is evolving and one has to have the eyes, ears, nose here, to appreciate it. Rachel’s review of Zoo® Tubereuse Organique server as such a tutorial and I am intrigued indeed – what the heck is Zoo® Tubereuse Organique and how does it smell and how did the perfumers make it. Thanks for the review and draw. The idea of including real tuberose for the winner is a great one. From continental United States.

  • kusudamakitten98 says:

    It is astounding to me that the tuberose note can be reconstructed by using jasmine, Tequila, and lavender. I love the smell of tuberose, so I would be excited to try this fragrance and compare it to the real thing!

    From NJ, USA

  • It’s such a cool idea to give people the opportunity to smell the actual raw material extract to compare. There really is nowhere to hide when you do that. Furthermore, I am super interested in the interplay between Tuberose, Jasmine and the actual tequila note. From PA, USA

  • Very interesting to see the pursuit of creating a fragrance with a specific scent in mind and making it smell exactly like envisioned. Some of the fragrances that I’ve sampled that use artificial ingredients rather than the natural ingredient, you can often tell that it smells artificial and unnatural. I’m interested to see the accomplishments that Laudamiel and Charron made in this fragrance in the closeness to pure tuberose. From TX, USA.

  • Constructing a tuberose accord with Lavandin LMR, Egyptian Jasmine absolute, and Tequila! Wow! It makes me wonder how many other iconic raw materials can be reconstructed with an artistic nose towards achieving the hyperreal. The idea of including the read deal tuberose absolute to compare is wonderful for education and appreciation of the art that goes into constructing a perfume like this.
    Best wishes from the US!

  • Nom de Guerre says:

    So many great fragrances by Mr Laudamiel – an airy tuberose with solar, green and woody notes sounds absolutely right for this spring. Greetings from Riga, Latvia!

  • I think it’s so cool that the perfumers were able to recreate tuberose from other materials! It’s a note I’ve come to enjoy a lot and I’d love to experience how they did it. I’m in MN, USA.

  • Wow! Amazing writing and imagery of this perfume and the house. I love the description of this tuberose as milky, solar, and green with a little soil. The description of tequila as a way to fire the flower to a ceramic or porcelain like wear on the skin is gorgeous. Thanks for the chance to win a bottle! In TX US.

  • Oh wow a chance to compare the fragrance (beautifully and enticingly described) to a special sample of the pure tuberose is so neat and special! I have not tried anything from the Zoo but this sounds very creative, and like a new and highly artistic direction to bring to a note like tuberose. The description of the process was extremely interesting and I appreciate having the veil lifted on this fragrance. Thank you for the giveaway, truly curious to smell this perfume! Greetings from Canada

  • Tuberose was the first note to really grab my attention in perfumery! I think it’s so beautiful and was surprised to read about how contentious it can be. Christophe was such a refined and specific point of view, I’d love to try his take on tuberose and as someone eager to learn more and train my nose, I really appreciate his including a sample of the pure thing for comparison. (New York, USA)

  • What a fascinating perfume – a tuberose without tuberose. I had no idea that tuberose was in the agave family! This was a very informative review, thank you for that 🙂 It makes you wonder, what other fragrances out there that tout to be a certain ingredient when in fact it is composed of others! I enjoy tuberose when it goes in a floral direction, but usually not a fan when it goes into minty-chewing gum direction. I have not tried any from Christophe Laudamiel yet! Thank you for the review.
    From BC Canada

  • Olfactory trickery. Convince people it’s something it’s not. A fun project for the perfumers and a fun experiment for the users. Including a real absolute to test against is also a huge treat for perfume nerds. Great idea. (California, US) – Thank you.

  • This is a very Intriguing sounding fragrance with tequila and tuberose. What strikes me about the fragrance is how the perfumers recreated tuberose from 3 other notes (fascinating))). I would love to try this fragrance as I do appreciate Postmodern olfactory artsy fragrances. Thanks for the giveaway. Greetings and happiness from USA.

  • I enjoy how contemplative and ethereal this fragrance is, and I also love that the ingredients do not include the material for which it is named. The Zoo perfumes consistently pull me in with their wonderful novel compositions, but they, at the same time, expand my ideas of what fragrance can be and the multi-level impact that it can have upon its wearer.
    P.S. Greetings from Hastings-on-Hudson, NY!

  • I love love love tubérose. When it’s done well it’s done SO well!! It’s just a blessing. I cannot wait to try this house and can’t think of a better First One to start with. Wow sounds glorious!!!
    Thank you for the opportunity. In US

  • Laudamiel’s designs are consistently impressive, highlighting notes in an interesting way (Rhubarb My Love, Fig My Love), taking a whole archetype in an unusual direction (Amber Classico Modern), or just combining totally unexpected notes (Spacewood). Rachel’s profile of Tubereuse Organique really makes me want to try it. I would never have expected a combination of Lavandin LMR, jasmine, and tequila to yield tuberose in all its facets, and mixing it with oakmoss and patchouli to render leaf and stem is very clever. Laudamiel clearly has a unique knack for this sort of fragrance.

    I’m in the USA. Thanks for the cool giveaway!

  • Oh Rachel, you did this article just perfect! I feel like I just came out of a fascinating course on fragrance chemistry. I’m thrilled with my new little piece of knowledge! Knowing that tuberose and agave are from the same family gives me a thrill. What a brilliant fragrance idea to use tequila instead of perfumer’s alcohol! Christophe Laudameil is so creative. His passion is infectious! I would love to try Tubereuse Organique. A constructed natural smelling tuberose note. I must smell this.

    Thank you for the giveaway. I live in the USA.

  • I love tuberose and have various bottles, but none with tequila! I like how this is concentrated on the plant tuberose, in all its aspects, including stalks and stems. It sounds delightful! Thank you for the review.

  • Fantastic review by Rachael.
    I am a huge fan of tuberose based fragrances and I know I would adore this one.
    Tuberose Organique seems like everything I need in my collection right now. I love the idea that it evoques of being in a tuberose field, just amazing.
    USA here.

  • foreverscents says:

    I am a big fan of tuberose, even when it is at its most heady and indolic. But I am intrigued by the avant-garde creation of Tuberose Organique. I love that there is no tuberose extract. But there is tequila! This is brilliant. These days it is visionaries like Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron that keeps me interested in fragrance as a hobby. I used to chase vintage fragrances, but I would much rather spend my money on creations that can be found from houses like The Zoo.
    I live in the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the nice review Rachel.

    Absolutely love Laudmiels work, especially in the opening of minds to fragrance ethics and materials.

    I enjoy tuberose in all it’s facets – waxy, carnal, floral, green.

    This fragrance is particularly cool, because they have managed to create a full tuberose experience, without actually using tuberose, which is quite marvelous. Really cool to see the inspiration in using Tequila since it is related to the agave plant.

    Also, nothing like LAudmiel to provide a sample of the actual raw material to open the consumers eyes.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • I love the idea of an Avant-Garde tuberose! I find myself missing interesting innovations in fragrance lately, as I look at what L’Oreal has done to my beloved Mugler scents. I want that edge! I have tried The Zoo’s Amber Classico Modern and adored it’s cool, weird opening. Rachel’s description of this new scent seems right up my alley, too. I live in MO, USA.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I’m interested in trying this fragrance for multiple reasons. I do enjoy tuberose in fragrances, e.g. I’m fond of Maison Violet’s “Compliment”. From Christophe Laudamiel, I’m fond of A&F “Fierce”. I think that this fragrance has an interesting notes listing. I’m also interested in trying the special sample of pure tuberose. I’m interested to see how tequila pairs with tuberose. I live in the U.S.A.

  • sephrenia300 says:

    Very interesting review Rachel! What strikes me about The Zoo Tubereuse Organique is the idea of a fragrance evoking a fresh dewy tuberose field without containing any actual natural tuberose extract. Most tuberose fragrance accent the heady, indolic, thick and carnal nature of the flower with its “dangerously” seductive quality. Fresh tuberose fragrances are very rare – in fact I don’t now if I’ve ever smelled one – so I am definitely interested in trying this one! I live in the US