St.Clair Scents Song of Aubrac and Pharaoh’s Passion Review (Diane St. Clair)2020 + Cleopatra and Narcissus Draw

 

Diane St Clair of St Clair's Scents

Diane St. Clair of St. Clair’s Scents digital effects by MC

Artisanal American perfumer Diane St.Clair has been nominated as a finalist in this year’s 2020 Art and Olfaction Awards for her perfume Eve, and last year in 2019 for her glorious Gardener’s Glove. Her latest compositions are Pharaoh’s Passion (inspired by the recent discovery of resinous residues suggestive of Cleopatra’s perfume) and Song of Aubrac – a lyrical rendition of rare and costly narcissus absolute grown in France’s Massif Central (surrounding the environs of Lozère) where it is cultivated with care. If Diane speaks to us of music, I will not resist. Add the mention of narcissus absolute and I am ensorcelled.

BEST NARCISSUS PERFUMES

tourisme-aveyron.com

Why narcissus? Few materials straddle the sophisticated/bucolic arena as this one does. Certain absolutes may terrify/cause concern when the uninitiated smell them undiluted; their potency belies their potential. You might count narcissus among these with its honeyed heft, tobacco/haylike notes, balsamic/herbal nuances, the whiff of barnyard which lies beneath its ebullient floralcy. When black currant bud absolute (aka bourgeons de cassis) accompanies it, more wizardry materializes: a verdantly fruity-herbal resinousness with a wisp of spice, its undertone distinctly urinaceous. Oft times perfumery is undeniable alchemy – what occurs in dilution, in combination presents as something significantly different than the sum of its parts.

St. Clair's Scents Song of Aubric review

Echo and Narcissus by John Williams Waterhouse

So it is with Song of Aubrac. Diane St.Clair fleshes out many facets of the flower in chiaroscuro fashion, shooting narcissus through with shafts of light (jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, ambergris). Each of these materials possesses an animalic underbelly alongside the sunny disposition; they couple with inimitable shadow-play of ivy, sandalwood, vetiver and musks. Diane’s inclusion of tonka provides balance, its echo of hay and caramel-like tone accented by spicy balsamic aspects. Nothing in Song of Aubrac skews cloyingly sweet and tonka’s judicious dosage is a welcome accompaniment and fixative. What is there about a grassy pastoral plateau that isn’t happy-making? This fragrance is seductive in a guileless manner, fresh and cunning with an underpinned growl that highlights its complexity. Notes: citrus accord, blackcurrant bud absolute, frankincense, ivy, ambergris tincture, narcissus absolute (Laboratoire Monique Remy/IFF) jasmine absolute, ylang ylang, orange blossom absolute, Indian sandalwood, double distilled vetiver, tonka bean, musks

Pharoah's passion St. Clairs Scents review

 Alexandre Cabanel. Painting, 1887

St. Clair Scents Pharaoh’s Passion is a spicy floral étude embedded in amber and resin; its protagonist- as- inspiration is Cleopatra, the last Pharaoh of Egypt. The archaeological construct cited by Diane is a recent discovery in the summer of 2019, when vestiges of a (likely) perfume factory revealed ancient jars containing dried resins, oils and other aromatic substances. It raised the possibility that Cleopatra’s perfume might have been comprised of potently spicy, resinous and musky materials. Surely this grants sufficient premise for the creation of a heady potion – which is precisely what the perfumer has accomplished.

Cleopatra's perfume

Lawrence Alma-Tadema. Antony meeting Cleopatra

Pharaoh’s Passion is foremost a voluptuary’s delight and as is always the case, no expense is spared in artistic pursuit. Diane does not cut corners in her compositions. As this fragrance opens, a brisk bergamot cavorts with coriander and cardamom, both sweet and piquant. The heart is flagrantly floral, with rose participating in fruited and dewy guise (Turkey) and also as counterpoint – the rosy/herbal/mintiness which geranium contributes. Jasmin sambac and ylang ylang are rich, unctuous and provocative: together they smell honeyed, velvety, luxurious as they swan above a balsamic, leathery base. Labdanum is ambery and redolent of leather, slightly musky even. Grassy vetiver flirts with lemony frankincense; cedarwood recalls the masts of Cleopatra’s ships – and benzoin smooths any edges with its tender cinnaminic sweetness. Pharaoh’s Passion possesses remarkable longevity and dries down worthy of its name – a leader of the ancient world renowned for her charm, accomplishments, extravagant tastes, political acumen and brilliant steel-trap intellect. It throbs with mystery. Notes: coriander, cardamom, bergamot, Turkish rose absolute, jasmine sambac, ylang ylang, geranium absolute, benzoin, labdanum resin, frankincense, vetiver, cedarwood, musks

Samples provided by the perfumer – many thanks!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Diane St. Clair of St. Clair Scents we have one sample pack for one registered reader of deluxe spray vials (2 ml) of both St. Clair Scents Song of Aubrac and Pharaoh’s Passion for two registered readers in the USA only. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please comment upon what appealed to you in Ida’s review, and which one intrigues you the most. Do you have a favorite St. Clair Scents perfume? Draw closes 5/22/2020

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29 comments

  • Kirsten says:

    These both sound so unique! I would adore each spritz! Thanks for the opportunity! I’m in Florida USA

  • chrisskins says:

    I have and love Diane St. Clair’s Casblanca and a delicious sample of Gardener’s Glove. I really want to share with my friends who garden, but I just can’t part with it. Both of the new fragrances sound beautiful, but the Pharaoh’s Passion has the built-in, “I’m going to have a Cleopatra day” and who doesn’t want that. Ida’s detailing of the history of the 2019 discovery always adds that extra layer, which really helps in appreciating the perfume. I live in NY.

  • drjedi says:

    I am ensorcelled by Ida’s descriptions of Song of Aubrac and Pharoah’s Passion. They both seem to be delightful fragrances, especially the latter seems decadent. What a nice description of how the various smells interact with each other, as many painters have done with the interplay of shadow and light, in a “chiaroscuro fashion” – ‘shooting narcissus through with shafts of light (jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, ambergris). Each of these materials possesses an animalic underbelly alongside the sunny disposition; they couple with inimitable shadow-play of ivy, sandalwood, vetiver and musks’. Lovely review as always – Ida has such a way with words. Thanks for the review and the draw. Writing from USA.

  • Tami H. says:

    Oh my. What a review. Here is my favorite part & my choice for a favorite sample.

    leopatra

    Pharaoh’s Passion is foremost a voluptuary’s delight and as is always the case, no expense is spared in artistic pursuit. Diane does not cut corners in her compositions. As this fragrance opens, a brisk bergamot cavorts with coriander and cardamom, both sweet and piquant. The heart is flagrantly floral, with rose participating in fruited and dewy guise (Turkey) and also as counterpoint – the rosy/herbal/mintiness which geranium contributes. Jasmin sambac and ylang ylang are rich, unctuous and provocative: together they smell honeyed, velvety, luxurious as they swan above a balsamic, leathery base. Labdanum is ambery and redolent of leather, slightly musky even. Grassy vetiver flirts with lemony frankincense; cedarwood recalls the masts of Cleopatra’s ships – and benzoin smooths any edges with its tender cinnaminic sweetness. Pharaoh’s Passion possesses remarkable longevity and dries down worthy of its name – a leader of the ancient world renowned for her charm, accomplishments, extravagant tastes, political acumen and brilliant steel-trap intellect. It throbs with mystery. Notes: coriander, cardamom, bergamot, Turkish rose absolute, jasmine sambac, ylang ylang, geranium absolute, benzoin, labdanum resin, frankincense, vetiver, cedarwood, musks

    Thanks much for the generous giveaway, I live in the USA .
    I absolutely adore Casablanca.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I loved how Ida perfectly described narcissus and all of its strange nuances! The way this scent seems to play with those various facets sounds perfect. I love st. Clair’s First Cut and am looking forward to this! Both sound wonderful–Sound of Aubrac especially. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • patrick_348 says:

    Both scents sound like they have a lot going on–lots of notes, complex structure–and so I liked how Ida broke them each down into component parts and gave a sense of what each part contributes. If I had to choose, I would choose Pharoah’s Passion, because I have smelled some real-life narcissuses that didn’t appeal to me, but I still would want to try Song of Aubrac. Either would be my first St. Clair scent experience. North Carolina, USA

  • Dami C says:

    I really enjoyed the descriptions of the narcissus note in Song of Aubrac and of the sweet spiciness of Pharaoh’s passion. They both sound as very unique creations from a line I am not familiar with. I would love to try both! I am in the USA.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I love hearing about new creations from St. Clair Scents! Her perfume Casablanca is absolutely beautiful, and I look forward to trying these as they sound wonderful, especially Song of Aubrac. Thank you for this review and generous draw! I’m in the USA.

  • INYA says:

    Both fragrances sound lovely, but I’m drawn to Song of Aubrac. Love the notes: narcissus, frankincense, ivy and black currant. Thanks for the opportunity to sniff! Mich USA

  • Jake Dauod says:

    Pharaoh’s Passion appealed to me most because of the spicy notes lifted. It sounds like a middle eastern perfume and I absolutely love spices in fragrances (hence why I am drawn towards it). I haven’t tried a St. Clair Scents perfume, sadly, so I don’t have a favorite. Kind regards from Illinois, USA.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Ida,
    I too have been ensorcelled by Song of Aubrac. Now I wish I had purchased both.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the excellent review, Ida. Both the review and the images are fantastic. Pharaoh’s Passion in particular appealed to me and made me think of the old Egyptian Series that Wilbur Smith had written. Those books were filled with politics, wars, mages, pharaohs, and young princes and queens and boats on the Nile.

    This scent reminds me of all of these.

    Thanks for the draw.

    Regards from WI, USA

  • helenlam says:

    These both sound positively luscious and appealing, but oh so different. I haven’t tried anything from this house before, but based on this review, I’d have to pick Pharaoh’s Passion. I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Jack3Tlife says:

    I loved how Ida perfectly described narcissus and all of its strange nuances. Both scents sound like they have a lot going on–lots of notes, complex structure–and so I liked how Ida broke them each down into component parts and gave a sense of what each part contributes. If I had to choose, I would choose Pharoah’s Passion, because I have smelled some real-life narcissuses. USA

  • serephia says:

    Both sound unique but they include florals I love, namely jasmine. I would love to try both. USA

  • audesko1 says:

    These scents sounds beautiful. With Ida’s descriptions of Song of Aubrac and Pharaoh’s Passion it is hard to decide which is more beautiful. The first with narcissus and black current accord as well as other flowers. Pharaoh’s Passion with rose and herbs sounds more to my liking. Both sound amazing! Ida’s words are so heavenly to read. Thank you for the chance. I love Gardeners Glove. USA

  • xoe says:

    Thank goodness this is for both. I would not be able to choose between these two very different scents. They are both ensorcelling. I have never tried St. Clair Scents.

  • Naomi Sawyer says:

    Ok, I am hooked: Song of Aubrac is “fresh and cunning with an underpinned growl”, and Pharoah’s Passion “throbs with mystery”…. how could one choose between them? Perhaps I would be more likely to wear Song of Aubrac during the day….

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I adore scents with narcissus notes. So, Scents of Aubruc naturally calls to me although both sound wonderful. I have yet to try any from this line. I would the chance to. Thank you for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Atonya L Roush says:

    I had always worn Boucheron and my mother gifted it to me every year on my birthday. She passed unexpectedly May 19, 2008. I haven’t worn it since that time. I love perfumes and the two described sounded incredible. I also use essential oils so this product is my cup of tea so to speak.

  • Sngash says:

    Thank you Ida, I like it when I can learn new words from an article and I get them from you every now and then – I had to look up voluptuary :). These sound lovely I’m in USA

  • snowflake15 says:

    I love the article! Song of Aubrac intrigues me the most. Narcissus in all its varieties in one of my favorite flowers. I find it fascinating to translate the actual flower scent into a perfume scent.
    I have never tried a St. Clair scent before.

  • Old Herbaceous says:

    I am so intrigued by Song of Aubrac! I love narcissus and daffodil scents, and they aren’t very common. I thought Ida’s description of Diane creating a chiaroscuro effect in the fragrance. I do have a favorite St. Clair Scents perfume, though I have loved them all: Gardener’s Glove, a beautiful floral/green/leather. I live in the US; thanks for the draw!

  • Rarnabus says:

    I have not yet had an opportunity to try any of St. Clair Scents’ perfumes yet. I’m only starting to dip my toes into indie perfumery recently! So much to explore.

  • Sulnaso says:

    I am interested by both Song of Aubrac and Pharaoh’s Passion. Me being an Egyptophile I find Pharaoh’s Passion the most intriguing. Many others perfumers have attempt to recreate the fragrances found in the clay vessel. I love to experience Diane’s interpretation. I live in California.

  • Carboytony826 says:

    Ida, as always it is a pleasure to read your reviews. They titillate the senses and tickle the brain cells.

    Both of these sound amazing – I just got a sample of Gardener’s Glove, and if that foreshadows Diane’s tremendous ability, these must surely be masterpieces!

    Song of Aubrac sounds interesting, though Narcissus and I have a love/hate relationship, but if anyone sounds like they can make it work for me, it is Diane.

    Pharoah’s Passion sounds like it hits all the right buttons for me – it’s got some of my favorite notes, plus the egyptology side of it is really quite fantastic!

    I’m in MA

  • Caliwas says:

    Excellent review by Ida who explain both fragrance notes and scent DNA. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I haven’t tried any of the St. Clair Scents, but I feel I must have been waiting for these two. Pharaoh’s Passion calls to me particularly because I am so interested in the history of that time and place. Song of Aubrac also calls to me as I love the scent of narcissus in flowers and am so curious as to how it scents in this fragrance. As always, Ida’s reviews are magical. Thank you for the review and thank you for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • LinePlaneVolume says:

    Song of Aubrac is wonderful. Highly recommended. Pharoah’s Passion, so far, reminds me of the latter phase of Casablanca, so I’m still not sure where I fall on that one.