Tilda Swinton as Archangel Gabriel via desktopnexus.com

“These are the times which try men’s souls.” ~ The Crisis by Thomas Paine, December 23, 1776

Nolo contendere, dear readers. We at ÇaFleureBon are cognizant of the transformative power of perfume, its soothing effects and its singular ability to restore a much-needed sense of well-being. Long live the Scented Skein! It can prove challenging to pare down an interminable list of favorites; here are three of my most soothing fragrances which are unlikely to fail you. They are well-suited to the blooming season – but candidly, any time is a good time to acquaint yourselves with this lovely and lovable trio of olfactory antidepressants- soothing fragrances for unsettling times. Now is a time for tenderness…

Perris Monte Carlo Jasmin de Pays (Jean-Claude Ellena) 2019: Few feel the south of France the way Grasseois native son Maître Jean-Claude Ellena does. His fragrant love ode takes flight in this sun-drenched jasmine soliflore; the moment I set nostrils upon it I was well and truly done for. Since that moment I have purchased backup bottles, decanted and mailed it out to my friends – and will continue this practice.

Grasse Jasmine Festival via Telegraph UK

Sophistication weds simplicity: feral enough to reveal jasmin de Grasse’s inherent sensuality, it flirts with grandiflorum’s indolic aspect. Tagetes, aka marigold – lends a fruity herbal tone veering towards that tinge of bitterness as aromatic counterpoint. The deftest touch of clove, the soft furry nudge of musk; it’s Jasmine as Talisman. And as I’ve harped on incessantly before, jasminoides may mimic the effects of Valium, but they are not a controlled drug as we speak. This perfume IS that good. Notes: jasmine absolute, clove, tagetes, musk

 

Fabrice Pellegrin via the Fragrance Foundation

L’Artisan Parfumeur Bucoliques de Provence ( Fabrice Pellegrin) 2016: Speaking of the Provençal: in L’Artisan Parfumeur’s collection entitled “Les Paysages’, another native Grasseois – perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin – proved an intuitive choice to compose this exquisite eau de parfum. Monsieur Pellegrin is the son of a perfumer and worked first for Robertet, then Mane, and since 2008 for Firmenich: in 2017, he was awarded what amounts to a ‘fragrance Oscar’ by Cosmétique Mag, Perfumer of the Year. His passion is nature and naturals (he helps shape Firmenich’s strategy for innovative natural materials) and his Bucoliques de Provence fairly sings with this passion.

via tmblr

It’s an amorous duet between lavender and leather amid orris, perhaps the limpid grace of violet leaf (or so it smells to me) and a subtle spice accord. The first spritz is sprightly and a bit strident, followed by earthy tones of warmed haystack, both herbal and floral faces of lavender which soften rapidly to a lingering murmur that hums upon the skin, only to be refreshed by activity. You lose track of it and then it revives itself (and your spirits) at unexpected intervals throughout the day. I add that this one is likely a sleeper on the fragrant scene – but everyone who has smelled it adores it and I’ve sent this out to many friends along the way. Notes: lavender, iris, spices, leather

 Sr Editor Robert Herrmann( RIP)

DSH BIWA (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) 2020:  This was a dream realized; the fragrance which beloved terminally ill Robert Herrmann, our Senior and Emeritus Editor – dictated to Michelyn in a moment of lucidity, citing Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as his designated perfumer. He even had a name: BIWA, evoking the irregularly shaped pearls sequestered in mussel shells from Lake Biwa in Japan. A poignant attribute not previously imparted: Biwa pearls are said to possess the power to purify thoughts traveling through one’s mind and body, believed to enhance awareness and encourage expression of the nobler Self. How appropriate then was Robert’s choice. BIWA wasn’t created in a day; it required a tremendous amount of work on Dawn’s behalf during the madhouse holiday season. A labor of love from which the profits go towards husband Ron Hall to assist with medical costs. I bought both edp and extrait without a second thought. There was no other choice.

DSH Perfumes BIWA is available at DSH Perfumes and Indigo Perfumery here

BIWA floats upon the aether and skin like celestial grace, vox angelis. Brilliant aldehydes tickled with mint embrace the savory warmth of jasmine rice and floral/woody vanilla before they nestle into a veritable onsen of serenity embodied by Dawn’s use of cypress, hinoki, cedar and a pine moss note. A perfume of contrasts: cool and warm, feathery yet long lasting, BIWA refreshes the spirit with its ethereal beauty. Notes: aldehydes, crushed mint, cypress, rice powder, steamed jasmine rice accord,  rice absolute, Tahitian vanilla, Base: hinoki, Hiba and  Virginian Cedarwood,  pine moss

Kahlil Gibran image from The Prophet via The Conversation

We at ÇaFleureBon wish you health and peace of mind during trying times, we all need soothing and fragrance can help . May all manner of thing be well!

(My first bottle of Jasmin de Pays was a gift from Gian Luca Perris, bless you! The following bottles of it I purchased. Bucoliques de Provence and BIWA are from my personally acquired collection as well.)  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Ida has decided to send these three soothing fragrances, which she will decant into her lovely 4 ml.glass cube flacons – for one registered reader worldwide (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Ida’s choices for soothing scents, what you enjoy most about ÇaFleureBon and where you live. Draw closes 3/39/2020

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