Saturday Night Classics: Sisley Eau du Soir Review (Jeannine Mongin) 1999 + The green maze draw

Sisley Eau du Soir review

Bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir, photo by Nicoleta

The Sisley brand was launched in 1976 by Hubert d’Ornano together with his wife, the countess Isabelle d’Ornano. Looking at their noble bloodline, we see that the passion for beauty also runs deep and through generations as Humbert’s father, Guillaume d’Ornano was the co-founder of Lancome in 1935. After the second world war, Hubert and his brother Michael founded the fragrance company Jean d’Albret and the cosmetic prestige brand Orlane. After founding Sisley, Humbert d’Ormano led it for forty years, then passed on the chair to his son, the company remaining privately owned to this day, as a legacy of tradition and old-world luxury heritage.

Count Hubert D'Ornano and wife Isabelle in Paris,

Count Hubert D’Ornano and wife Isabelle Potocki in Paris, © Photography by Arlu Gomez

Countess Isabelle Potocki’s life is nothing short of a fairytale. She was a member of the Polish royal family, grew up for the first two years in Lancut Castle, then forced by the war, together with her mother and sisters “with a suitcase and nothing else” to leave Poland, then moved to Spain, then to England, before finally setting in Paris, where she met, fell in love and married Hubert d’Ornano.

Vintage sisley eau de soir ad perfume ad 1999

Création Hubert Isabelle d’Ornano pour Sisley, perfume ad

The legend is that Sisley Eau du Soir perfume was a romantic gift from her husband – but, in reality, the story is more in tune with her vivid and hands-on spirit. In a rare interview, she reveals the story behind the creation of Eau du Soir: “In 1990, when the Eau du Soir was created for you, what was your initial reaction?   I was actually a part of the creation! I wore it for a long time because we haven’t decided to launch a second perfume. I was brought up in Spain and I was in love with the gardens. I’ve always been fascinated by the smell of the gardens — especially in the evenings. That’s why we called the fragrance Eau du Soir  [Soir meaning night in French]. That smell is very much a smell of the syringa —it’s sort of an orange flower — and it smells especially strong in the evening. It’s not a very exuberant flower but it’s a small flower with a smell that you can recognize anywhere. The syringa was the starting point of the fragrance. However, a fragrance is a composition. It’s like a piece of music or even a picture. You have an idea, a subject and you build around it.”

Sisley Eau du Soir was Countess Isabelle’s personal signature fragrance for nine years, and after almost a decade of compliments and questions, she decided to share with everybody and launch it worldwide.

Game of Thrones – the Water Garden castle from Dorne

The Gardens of the Royal Alcazar of Seville, www.visitasevilla.es (you might recognize the place from Game of Thrones – the Water Garden castle from Dorne)

On a personal note, as I have previously touched upon in my “fragrant awakening” I absolutely adore chypres, they are the fragrance genre that – to me – smells like home, mind you an imaginary home, one I have never seen but always felt gut-wrenching nostalgic for, ever since childhood.  Eau du Soir checks all the bullet points of the typical chypre-tailored pattern: green, citrus top, bitter, oakmoss, but it’s also cut from a different, more modern fabric than the greatest hits vintage counterparts we all know and (some of us) love. Fuel of false memory infused with  nostalgia, at first Eau du Soir can seem intimidating and/or aristocratically distant. Once you are under its spell though, there is no turning back.

1999 Sisley Eau du Soir

Bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir, photo by Nicoleta 

“Understated opulence” is the perfect association that came to my mind, the first time I encountered : Sisley Eau du Soir, in an airport, in one of my first travels in the 2000s, and it quickly became THE aspirational perfume – the promise of a settled-in-flawless-maturity and pearl-wearing-tailored-powersuit-elegance I never reached in the way I pictured it back then. Wonderful to wear, comfortable like a second skin; regardless of season (its beautiful bitter bite works perfectly with humid summer heat). Nor is it tied to an occasion – I have worn it to full glammed up “du soir” opera evenings and to morning walks in the park; it acts and feels like having a bubble of self-awareness and comfortable relaxation.

The Maze Garden at The Real Alcazar of Seville

The beginning of the perfume is a perfectly blended green veil of aromatic and citrus notes making way into a perfectly cut maze of stern geometrical bushes – flowers come into play, but they are austere, drained of colour and painted in various shades of green: the crisp lily of the valley mixed with a thorny stern rose and a very serious jasmine. I don’t know how the syringa flower smells, but there’s a “night blooming” floral undercurrent flowing beneath, cooling and keeping the fragrance safe from any deviations from the course.  Old moss-covered statues guard the exit of the maze, and a pale orange warmth comes, with the last rays of the sun, from the deep notes of the base: the musk, amber and patchouli.

Sisley Eau du Soir was created in 1990 (but launched  to the public in 1999) and the nose was Jeannine Mongin. The bottle was designed by Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof.

Top notes: Mandarin, Grapefruit, Pepper;Middle notes: Syringa, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Lily of the Valley, Iris, Genever Clove ;Base notes: Musk, Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Cistus

Nicoleta Tomsa, Editor

Disclosure: My own bottle, opinions are my own

Vintage Sisley Eau du Soir, review

 We have a 20 ml decant of Sisley Eau du Soir for a registered reader in the US, Canada or EU (be sure to register or your comment will not count). Please be sure to register. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Nicoleta’s review, and where you live.  Please congratulate Nicoleta on her promotion to Editor! Draw closes by 6 /30/2020

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46 comments

  • Extremely descriptive review of a house i have wanted to try but as yet haven’t gotten around to. Big fan of florals and chypres and the phrase “understated opulence” resonated with me! NYC here

  • I also am a Chypre fan and this one sounds absolutely beautiful.
    This sentence hit me like a freight train. it acts and feels like having a bubble of self-awareness and comfortable relaxation.
    Congratulations to the newest CaFleureBon editor. You certainly have earned this Nicoleta.

  • Loved the photos of the Real Alcazar in Sevilla! I visited back in… Omg I don’t remember even, perhaps 2014? But was blown away by the beauty and or course mesmerized by the orange trees everywhere!

    I love both green notes and orange blossom so I would adore trying this fragrance! Often orange blossom makes its way into summer scents that feel quite frivolous so an “austere” scent using it to give a feeling of maturity and poise sounds really wonderful. It’s more my genre.

    Thank you for the lovely review!

  • Trinity33 says:

    I adore chypres as well. I recall trying Sisley Eau du Soir years ago but I don’t think my “nose” was sophisticated enough to appreciate it. I love the imagery of the maze and the notes point to a cool elegance. I’m interested in finding out more about the syringa flower too. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Congratulations Nicoleta.
    I haven’t found a chypre for a long time that I love or comes close to the vintage ones. I loved the history of the Princess and wish I could smell syringa.
    Please enter me
    USA

  • This sounds like a wonderful combination and “understated opulence “ is always welcome. Congratulations to you Nicoleta on your promotion to editor, hard work pays off ! Brooklyn NY USA

  • ll grhm I live in USA says:

    I liked learning about the history of the perfume and its creators Count Hubert D’Ornano and wife Isabelle Potocki. Nicoleta is also quite talented in describing the notes and development of a perfume.

    I live in the USA

  • I have heard a lot of good press about this perfume and this review underlines that. The bottle is absolutely stunning as well! Congratulations Nicoleta, I’m looking forward to read your future posts. I’m in Denmark.

  • Jake Dauod says:

    First off, a huge congratulations goes out to Nicoleta for her promotion to editor, she really deserves it. For the fragrance, I love the emphasis on the green notes. I love how Nicoleta associates chypres with home and I can very much agree. For me, green notes and oak moss always remind me of home (can’t quite put my finger on why, but chypres will always give me comfort because of this association). Kind regards from Illinois, USA!

  • Congratulations Ms Nicoleta! As a gardener, I’m familiar with flowers that exude their intoxicating fragrance only at night. My neighbor had a syringia, mock orange, in her garden, and yes, it was very fragrant. I absolutely love the description of Eau du Soir, especially the oakmoss note. Thanks for another fabulous article and generous draw! Mich USA

  • First things first, congratulations Nicoleta on your promotion! I love chypres too, especially if they portray the image of tailored-powersuit-elegance like how you described Eau du Soir to be! Thanks for the review. I live in the US.

  • Steliyan Syarov says:

    Very well written review. Seems like a well crafted mixture of florals – very elegant and classy. Austria, EU.

  • Base notes: Musk, Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Cistus. I am intrigued by basenotes the mostly patchouli, amber and musk. A beautiful description by Nicoleta and congratulations on the promotion you deserve it. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Congratulations Nicola! Well deserved!

    The article perfectly describes how I remember the fragrance. My partner used to wear this, and still has the empty bottle. I find it beautiful, classical and soft. Like an expensive luxury lotion. The lasting power is excellent. This is a perfume that does not need to develop to be beautiful.

    I live in the EU (UK).

  • Nicoleta Martinez says:

    I am new to this community and I am definitely enjoying the storytelling and the wealth of information. Nicoleta’s review is a skillful combination of storytelling and factual information that evoke olfactive memories of my own and a desire to create new ones.

    Congratulations on your promotion!

    Nicoleta,
    Raleigh, NC

  • Old moss-covered statues guard the exit of the maze, and a pale orange warmth comes, with the last rays of the sun, from the deep notes of the base: the musk, amber and patchouli. A beautiful description by Nicoleta and congratulations on your promotion. I am intrigued by the notes of Patchouli and Musk in the heart. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Lots and lots of notes I like in this. I enjoyed reading of the “fragrant awakening”. Congratulations. US

  • Margarita K says:

    I love chypres too, I love florals even more. I know what you mean when you say wonderful “bitter bite”. Thank you for the opportunity and congratulations Nicoleta! I enjoy your writing and I look forward to reading more of it.

  • FELICITĂRI to Nicoleta for her well deserved promotion! Here’s to many more wonderful articles from her!
    I resonated very well with her observation about the chypre family in general, and Eau du Soir in particular, as seeming distant or hard-to-reach aristrocratic. I have that false feeling about classical chypres as well. I feel that modern chypres, the mainstream ones at least, have really been moulded in order to be less intimidating, more approachable, “easier” and blended with enough other familiar, more popular elements in order not to appear as cold or unknown anymore. On the other hand, I am wondering where this whole unapproachability idea came from. Because actually, chypres are way more real, way easier to relate to for the human being, who longs for nature, freshness, forest and mountain air and mosses and shrubs growing in the wilderness, than let’s say chocolate, caramel, panna cotta and all the gourmand notes that flooded us around the past decade (mind you, I love gourmands too, but I just don’t understand how the ratio of people smelling of choco is overwhelmingly larger than those smelling like oakmoss, vetiver or lavender, when you can, and DO eat choco everyday and can definitely smell it whenever you feel like it and basically you simply HAVE it 100% of the time, while the other ones I counted are so yearned for, missed and pretty hard to immerse oneself in nowadays?). Anyway, rant off, I really enjoyed Nicoleta’s detailed and practical description of the perfume itself as well as info about its history and creation, as well as the observation of this perfume being like a comfortable second skin in any climate and occasion.
    I live in the EU and would love to try Eau du Soir in my attempt to expand my chypre experience. Thanks for the description and the draw!

  • “Like having a bubble of self-awareness and comfortable relaxation” I want to fall under the spell of this chypre too! I live in the US. Congratulations, Nicoleta!

  • doveskylark says:

    I love the idea of an aspirational perfume. It really is true: when I need help being a better version of myself, I have certain perfumes that I turn to. Eau du Soir, with its illustrious background, as Nicoleta so wonderfully described it, certainly sounds inspirational and aspirational.
    I live in the USA.

  • Yay! Congratulations, Nicoleta, on your promotion!!!
    I loved this review. I love that you say it is comfortable like a second skin. It sounds so earthy and natural.
    I live in the USA.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    Congratulations on your promotion,
    Nicoleta! I appreciated your highlighing the background of the husband and wife, the lead up to the fragrance’s creation, and then giving your own view/breakdown of the fragrance (“Understated opulence” is the perfect association that came to my mind, the first time I encountered : Sisley Eau du Soir, in an airport; etc). The notes make this seem like something that would be worth getting my on. I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • This was a beautiful review by Nicoleta, who described this intriguing green chypre beautifully. I enjoyed reading about this being Countesse Isabelle Potocki’s signature scent that later became available to the public. I am a lover of chypre fragrances notes and the sound simply wonderful. Congratulations for getting promoted to Editor, Nicoleta! I am in the USA.

  • Congratulations Nicoleta, great news! I understand what you mean when you describe chypre’s as reminiscent of some home. I have that feeling with particular fragrances and they bring about strong emotions. I’ve been curious about Sisley and would love to be considered for the draw. I am a US reader

  • Nicoleta,

    Great review, as always, and what a fantastic backstory! I will admit, ashamedly, that this is my first time hearing of this house. I’m definitely going to have to do some research on this!

    This perfume sounds wonderful, opulent, stately. I’ve never smelled Syringa, so this would be fun to try, and the remainder of the notes are amazing.

    I’m in the US

  • Congratulations Nicoleta, it’s amazing to love and to thrive following your passion. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the Syringa bloom and how it inspired Eau de Soir back in 1990. I live in California , thanks for the review.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Thanks for this interesting and lovely review. I wasnt familiar with the history of Sisley and the Family behind. I once smelled this perfume and I love it, it is perfectly designed and the Garden is present. Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • Congratulation, Nicoleta, so proud to have you as an editor and Dana as a Senior editor, both from Romania, writing intriguing reviews on the biggest site there is! I looked for minutes at the picture with Count Hubert D’Ornano and wife Isabelle Potocki in Paris and I am still not sure if I aw everything that happens in that picture:-)) So much life, and luxury, maybe even “intimidating and/or aristocratically distant”, the same words you used to describe Eau de Soir. I perfectly understood what you meant with the idea of tailored up..and pearls..and all…
    I live in Romania and this occupies all my time 🙂

  • I love Chypre and I love romantic gifts 🙂 wanted to try this house from the beginning, but didn’t yet get round to it. Loved the review and would love to try this one. Living in the EU

  • Congratulations on your promotion! Its so cool that it was an exclusive fragrance for the Countess Isabelle Potocki for 9 years before being released to the public! I would love to know what the night smells like for her. USA

  • Anna Egeria says:

    Thank you ,Nicoleta for this dreamy review. You deserve your promotion. I’d love to be wearing the Countess Potocki’s beautiful fragrance. I’m in the US.

  • Congratulations On becoming an Editor! I loved the review of this very versatile scent. The beauty and Gardens of Seville are enchanting. I loved the descriptions of “Old moss-covered statues guard the exit of the maze, and a pale orange warmth comes, with the last rays of the sun, from the deep notes of the base: the musk, amber and patchouli.” Sisley Eau du Soir sounds like a comfort scent. USA

  • Michael Prince says:

    Nicoleta, congrats on your promotion to editor Nicoleta, great review on Sisley Eau du Soir. I am also a fan of chypre fragrances especially with a modern touch or twist to it. I am from the USA.

  • Wonderful review as usual, Nicoleta. And wonderful pictures too of the gardens in Seville and the fragrance bottle. So many nice descriptions of Eau du Soir – “smells like home, mind you an imaginary home, one I have never seen but always felt gut-wrenching nostalgic for, ever since childhood” and “Fuel of false memory infused with nostalgia” and “the promise of a settled-in-flawless-maturity and pearl-wearing-tailored-powersuit-elegance I never reached in the way I pictured it back then” – many have this sense of nostalgia for things they never had, and a fragrance that can create that feeling is indeed special and powerful. The story of its origins and the smells of the gardens in Spain, especially the syringa flowers, created an achy nostalgia in my heart for these gardens and the syringa flowers. False memories indeed as I haven’t actually experienced syringa flowers or evenings in Spanish gardens, but in a Jungian archetypal sense, the nostalgia evoked from your writing is real. You have a lovely way with words, and so I heartily congratulate you on your promotion to Editor position at Cafleurebon. Would love to check out Sisley Eau du Soir. Thanks for the review and the draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Jannick85 says:

    I really like the the imagery of the maze and overall a great review.
    Also congrats to Nicoleta on the promotion
    I’m from Denmark

  • Congratulations on your promotion Nicoleta and hope to see even more reviews from you. It is well earned 🙂 I loved that you included countess Isabelle d’Ornano’s narration of how the fragrance came to be. For this to have been the countess’ signature for 9 years indicates it must be exquisite. I’m in USA

  • Camille Sheil says:

    Congratulations Nicoleta! Your work is beautiful on this side of the screen! Thank you for your dedication to art in many forms.

    What a beautiful fragrance! A garden at night, a chypre. I think that Chypres are my favorite style of fragrance too! I love the balance. I love the bitterness.

    I also a fragrance that is like a best friend, that can go to the opera as well as on a morning walk. It can bring comfort in times of uncertainty and boldness and joy no matter the circumstances…all from a fragrance!

    Thank you so much for this review! Thank you for this opportunity! I live in New Hampshire USA!

  • I enjoyed learning about the heritage of the family and brand. (I can’t imagine having a signature scent for 9 years!) Thank you for the review & congratulations on the promotion! I’m in the US.

  • I really like Soir de Orient from Sisley, and have sniffed this one quickly at the counter in the past. However after reading Nicoleta’s review I think I need to give this one a try as that syringa and night garden smell really resonate with me. I remember thinking it was a generic green scent, but I think I need to let this one develop as I was not patient enough to look beyond a quick sniff first impression. I live in the USA. Congratulations Nicoleta!

  • Bonnie Anne says:

    So lovely to read an ode to green scents. My first grown up perfumes were No. 19 EDT and Cristalle EDT. They were perfect for the hot, humid northeast Florida weather. Sadly, one has been reformulated to the point that it no longer resembles the original, and the other is discontinued. Today’s “mainstream green” fragrances seem to be centered on lime and/or mint. Even a good, unsweet green tea scent is hard to find. I haven’t tried any Sisley fragrances but now I truly intrigued!

  • NiceVULady says:

    Congratulations on becoming editor Nicoleta!! I look forward to many more reviews. This one is a pleasure as Eau duSoir is exactly “understated opulence.” That is its perfect description. Thank you so much for your wonderful review and some history of the d’Ornano family. Thanks also for a most generous draw. I’m in the USA

  • Nicoleta.Tomsa says:

    Thank you all for your wonderful comments! So nice to see so many chypre lovers 😀