Face to face with the stag, with a brightly lit bottle of Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf bottle between its antlers – Stag ©Pixabay, bottle ©Saint-Eustache, collage and montage ©Emmanuelle Varron

 Amidst the dozens of perfume launches I have been fortunate to attend, on occasion one really stands out, both in the philosophy of the project and in the storytelling. Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf (The God Stag) recently launched in Paris.  I’ve been following its development since last October: first through Instagram, totally by chance. Curious to know more, I investigate, and find out that behind this perfume there is, of course, Saint-Eustache church… but also Etienne de Swardt, Etat Libre d’Orange founder! I contact him and finally realize that this fragrance is not only a scented creation among many others, but also a priesthood. A way for Etienne de Swardt to support the parish to which he has been faithful for several decades, also known for being open to the poorest and to Art.

From left to right and from top to bottom – Saint-Eustache church – Saint-Eustache nave – Keith Haring The Life of Christ triptych – all ©Emmanuelle Varron

 Governed by the Oratorian order since 1922, the church of Saint-Eustache is located in the heart of Paris, in the popular district of Les Halles, which has undergone a radical transformation in recent years. Just a few meters   away  there is a brand new (and architecturally daring) shopping mall, a huge garden and the Bourse de Commerce, which has been entirely renovated by the billionaire François Pinault (who has made it the new showcase for his immense collection of contemporary art). Present on this site since 1223, and after having undergone many transformations, the church is part of Parisians’ historical heritage. In addition to its architecture oscillating between Gothic and Renaissance, its prestigious organ among the most imposing and famous in France, and a height under the vault exceeding that of the Notre-Dame cathedral (33 meters high! ). Saint-Eustache is also known for its generosity (a soup kitchen is available every day in winter), its open-mindedness (it welcomed many AIDS patients in the 80’s). A Keith Haring triptych “The Life of Christ” is hanging in one of the chapels which was as gift from the artist and its eclecticism with numerous concerts that are organized there and  art exhibitions its bays.

Launch day at Saint-Eustache church 1/20/22 – From left to right Louis Robiche, Father Yves Trocheris, Ralf Schwieger and Etienne de Swardt – ©Emmanuelle Varron

Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf is a story of encounters, initiated by Louis Robiche, the dynamic church manager, between Etienne de Swardt and Father Yves Trocheris, the parish priest; it was a match between the entrepreneur and the churchman. We know Etienne de Swardt’s association with scent and as for Father Trocheris, “perfume allows us to play with our multiple identities. I’ve always liked to explore it, because it refers to animality, decomposition, and the flora aspects”.

The idea of a perfume dedicated to the church seemed a natural. The name was quickly found inspired by “Le Dieu Cerf “, the story of St. Eustace written in 2019 by French novelist Philippe Le Guillou: then named Placidus, a Roman general hunting in the forest ran into a beautiful stag with a golden cross sparkling between its antlers. The vision was a revelation for the pagan who converted to  Christianity and was then baptized Eustace… A fatal conversion since he and his family were then persecuted and martyred.

The Conversion of Saint Eustace ©Josef Binder (1849) via Wikipedia

For Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf, Father Trocheris had a precise idea in mind: that of a woody perfume, without embellishments and airy, an invitation to travel…. like Eau de Cologne. Etienne de Swardt chose Ralf Schweiger, the perfumer and collaborator for Etat Libre d’Orange Afternoon of a Faun, Etat Libre d’Orange Exit The King and of course Etat Libre d’Orange Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes. Delighted by this unusual project, the Mane perfumer had no trouble finding inspiration, while respecting the wishes of Father Trocheris: when he lived in Paris. Ralf Schwieger often walked near the church, and was inspired by majestic organ from outside. So, let’s go with a modernized cologne: “I imagined soldiers, greenery at the edge of the forest… aromatic notes and finally: light – vision – just like a burst of citrus freshness with the heavy lightness of bergamot.  Woody, to recall the high columns of Saint-Eustache that could be compared to the trees of a forest, and even to the antlers of a stag; it made me think of a beech forest flooded with light. And of course, the oak moss that I love to use in my perfumes, that smells like skin, animal… like Placidus, in fact! With a touch of rose essence; you know, so close to the smell that comes out when you open the graves. And no trace of incense. The shortcut would have been too easy, and irrelevant to the legend. There is a nod to Annick Goutal L’Eau d’Hadrien: the common citrus facet between the two perfumes, of course, but also the history of Saint-Eustache itself. Because the one who ordered the death of the former general was none other than… the emperor Hadrian!

Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf 50 ml bottle – ©Emmanuelle Varron

On my skin, the opening of Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf is characteristic of a classic cologne where bergamot and cardamom are very present and bright. Then it quickly evolves to greener notes, intense and warm, where galbanum, patchouli and oak moss plant us in the setting of a forest of huge and very leafy trees, with some aromatic touches brought by rosemary and lavender. At first glance, its facet is rather masculine, reinforced by a beautiful vetiver that gently unfolds. However, as the minutes go by, Saint-Eustache le Dieu Cerf reveals its own identity, where the sweetness of rose and the roundness of sandalwood blend in perfect harmony. A cologne for all, inspired and inspiring, which plunges us into the magic of an immense and sovereign Nature, without ostentation: a fragrance with a beautiful soul.

Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf is also the perfume of humanity, since it will be a source of income for the church’s restoration work, its good deeds and its cultural activities: thanks to the “offerings” of those who will buy the fragrance, but also thanks to Mane (supplier of the raw materials), who offered the church the first 1,000 bottles, and Etienne de Swardt, who financed the entire development of this project, “monotheism well macerated in a bottle“, as he underlined during the official launch.

 

I had the chance to try Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf for the first-time last November, after my initial conversation with Etienne de Swardt. It was a lovely church volunteer lady who introduced me to it, amazed that I could be so excited about a fragrance. We spent a few minutes talking about classical music (to which both our families had in common), but also about my passion for  fragrance. Perfume creates bonds, even between people who could never have crossed paths.

Emmanuelle Varron, Editor

Notes: bergamot, neroli, galbanum, cardamom Pure Jungle Essence™, nutmeg, lavender Pure Jungle Essence™, rosemary Pure Jungle Essence™, rose, patchouli Gayo Pure Jungle Essence™, oakmoss absolute, sandalwood, vetiver.

I rediscovered Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf on January 20th, during the official launch organized in the church. The opinions expressed are my own.

You can purchase Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf fragrance via an offering which is suggested at 69 €. Available at Eglise Saint-Eustache welcome desk, and on Saint-Eustache Le Dieu Cerf website. The sale proceeds are donated in full to the parish charitable works.

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