Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse (Manuel Cross) 2024 + Forest Floor Magic Giveaway

 

 Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse

Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse Bottle, courtesy of the brand

 Within the world of fragrance, there are cliques and clubs; there are devotes of natural perfumes, of vintage bottles, of fragrance as Art, of cutting-edge molecular science. If you can imagine it, there will be a forum out there for fans to gather, share samples and argue boundaries and finer points. This is the fun and life-blood of any community dedicated to a passion project. One such group of devoted searchers is always on the hunt for the ultimate oakmoss fragrance. Lucky for us (I count myself in this particular fan club), there is a new contender on the scene: Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse by artisan perfumer Manuel Cross.

best oakmoss perfumes

Oakmoss, wiki

 Oakmoss has been a material in perfumery for a millennia (Dr. Elise Pearlstine’s deep dive into the material is a great read), and had a surge in popularity with the bold masculine scents of the 1980s. Classification as an allergen and restrictions beginning in 2009 brought attention back to oakmoss and created a wave of nostalgia, increasing demand for the experience of oakmoss in fragrance. Approximations, reconstructions, alternate materials, and even low dosages of oakmoss have all brought interesting layers and experimentation to contemporary green perfume. Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery is well known for his devotion to verdant materials, especially oakmoss, tree moss and camphoraceous aspects of nature like lavender and sagebrush. With his latest release, Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse, Manuel brings to life the essence of moss-covered woods.

Opening with an invigorating pairing of olibanum and artemisia, Absolue de Mousse is at once harmonious and powerful. The bittersweet opening captures the best parts of a walking past a living rosemary bush with a fascinating blend of camphor and woody terpenes painted with herbaceous minty edge. The peppery lift of the olibanum provides a refreshing current of air flowing through its sweetening and thickening aspects.

Perfumer Manuel Cross 

Perfumer Manuel Cross, courtesy of the brand

Manuel’s inspiration for Absolue de Mousse comes from one of his most celebrated creations, “the idea of Absolue de Mousse was something I had been kicking around for a few years. I wanted to take the central accord of Mousse Illuminee and create a “thicker”, warmer scent.” Indeed, oakmoss and tree moss create the most welcome silvered glow. This is exactly the scent I’ve been craving from the cooling earth just barely tipping into fall. Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse radiates that complex atmosphere of bare trees, cold air, wet earth with hay and tobacco nuances like a campfire that has been doused in the distance. Layers of dry crisp leaves newly fallen onto decomposing vegetal wetness, marine and mysterious, at the bottom of the pile. A warmth rises like one’s own beating heart with rose, nutmeg, and orange blossom to anchor the skin in these autumnal environs. Nutmeg’s woody aspect slides easily into the scenery, its terpenic lift continuing olibanum’s song from the opening, and its warmth helps bridge fruity-floral rose and honeyed orange blossom with the green mosses.

perfumes with oakmoss

Tree moss, wiki

 Absolue de Mousse has a dry down that combines spikenard’s earthy-leather fungal warmth with myrrh’s sweetly balsamic anisic mossy aspects. The softer, sweeter, and richer heft to this phase of Absolue de Mousse has great potential to wear this fall and beyond. Labdanum and musk give a proper clean stoke of resinous heat to the dry down. Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse has arrived at the perfect moment to celebrate nature’s turn to all things autumnal…it is forest floor magic in a bottle.

Notes: oakmoss, tree moss, olibanum, artemisia, rose, nutmeg, orange blossom, clary sage, myrrh, labdanum, spikenard, musk

Rachel K. Ng, Editor

Bottle of Absolue de Mousse my own, opinions my own

Absolue de Mousse Rogue Perfumery

Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse by Rachel©

Thanks to Rogue Perfumery we have a 30 ml bottle of Absolue de Mousse for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the UK or USA (if you are not sure if you are registered click here – you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible please leave a comment with what strikes you about Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse and where you live. Do you have a favorite Rogue Perfumery fragrance? Draw Closes 9/26/2024

Available at ROGUE PERFUMERY

Luckyscent and Fragrance Vault and other stockists

Manuel Cross was Lauryn’s artisan of the year 2022. Rogue Perfumery Rostracto was one of Karl’s Top 10 best of 2022.

L’Homme M. LaCroix was one of Editor Michael Devine’s and Lauryn’s top ten best  of 2022

Please read ÇaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery 161st Profile: Manuel Cross and Rogue Perfumery here.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @rogue.perfumery@rachel.k.ng

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31 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Rogue Perfumery is a house I’m not too familiar with but reading this article was very eye-opening. To have a moss-focused fragrance is certainly a bold move as moss is one of those ingredients you’re either gonna love or hate, and based on the review, Rachel loves it. Calling it forest floor magic and an autumnal staple, I do agree seeing the not breakdown and the experience in how it wears. Notes like nutmeg on this fragrance do help soften the fragrance and elongate its life, and the other flowers add to the feeling of being in a forest. This sounds like a great fragrance for someone who loves being out and outside, a nomad’s dream. I’m located in the USA.

  • docm3902 says:

    I haven’t tried anything from Rogue Perfumery yet, but Absolue de Mousse sounds incredible! That mossy, earthy, autumn vibe with oakmoss and tree moss? Totally my kind of scent! I love fragrances that capture that forest floor feeling. I’m always surrounded by nature, so something like this would be perfect for the crisp fall air. The notes of nutmeg, rose, and orange blossom sound like they blend beautifully.
    USA

  • lkschnit says:

    Beautifully written! I had the opportunity to sample last month and Absolue de Mousse was an instant love for me. I definitely get the wet earth, hay, and tobacco nuances Rachel describes, and the warmth of the orange blossom is stunning. Even my perfume-picky husband likes it, and that is a rare occurrence. I also love Tuberose & Moss, and must try more from this house. I’m in the USA (WV). Thank you to Rogue for the giveaway opportunity!

  • Josh says:

    I love the house but haven’t tried this one yet. I really enjoy the moss + artemisia in Illuminee and it would be interesting to see a take on this. Cross does a lot of creative things with these older styles of perfume.

  • Kelsey H says:

    As a lover of oakmoss but novice towards green-speared scents I’m fascinated how one can be transported towards a mossy forest floor with such chewy and grounding properties of labdanum and and olibanum. I’m unfamiliar with Rogue Perfumery and look forward to experiencing the autumnal journey.

    Kelsey from California

  • BryanMD says:

    Being from Louisiana but living in the high desert Nevada, I really miss the kind of wet, green, earthy smells that this fragrance aims for. I think it would be perfect heading into the Fall, and I’m obsessed with the aesthetics of this brand already, though I haven’t tried any of their work.

  • agnes says:

    i’m obsessed with rogue’s ‘rostracto’ and especially its use of artemisia, so seeing it as an element here has me plenty intrigued on its own! i’m also just a sucker for a deep, mossy, green scent any day.

  • EdherRM says:

    What a nice detailed review. I love Mousse and its rich, earthy complexity. The description of oakmoss combined with hints of nutmeg and orange blossom sounds perfect for his fall, magic fall. I can almost imagine walking through a forest floor as the leaves fall around me. This sounds like an enchanting fragrance for the season. I can’t wait to experience it myself. I definitely hoping to win that giveaway! I live in New York City.

  • David Furman says:

    This sounds beautiful for the autumn. Sounds like this composition has a lot of dark, damp elements that bring the photorealistic side out. I imagine a green, lush forest damp after an early morning rain. This fits that mold and bring unique faucets to the table. A true treat for those who love artsy frags that tell a story and bring you full circle. From Jacksonville, NC.

  • Ben A says:

    My favorite Rogue perfume is Mousse Illuminee. I absolutely love it. I highly recommend Rogue’s discovery set, btw. So many wonderful fragrances. I think Manuel Cross’s neo-classical taste much match mine. At any rate the idea of a “thicker and warmer” flanker to Mousse Illuminee is very appealing. I’m in Oklahoma, USA.

  • opalbear says:

    Well I am behind! I have 11 full bottles of his but I do not have this! And I ADORE oakmoss and mossy vegetal warm blends with touches of floral and obv adore his work. Plus he is an absolute sweetheart and a gentleman. I would completely savor a win of this! I am in California. Keep up the great work Mr Cross!

  • Lu says:

    I must say, I am intrigued by the boldness of this fragrance. It is brave to move forward with such woodsy heavy notes yet it sounds like a true success. I cannot wait to experience it.

    Lu, USA

  • AromaDulce73 says:

    I’m not too familiar with oak moss in a fragrance but this one sounds interesting. The myrrh & labdanum makes me want to check this one out. Taking an olfactory trip through the forest seems like a great thing to do as we head into the fall & winter season.

    Los Angeles Ca, USA

  • INYA says:

    As a gardener, I love green fragrances. I liked the description of “honeyed orange blossom with the green mosses.” Thanks for another awesome article and draw. MI USA

  • JohnHenry says:

    I love Manuel’s creations, and own a bottle of Derviche, one of my favorites from this house. Absolue de Mousse sounds like a fantastic twist of the original Mousse Illuminee which i have sampled and consider a beautiful oakmoss centered fragrance.
    If I’m lucky to win this bottle, i will be in awe of owning such a beautful creation. I’m in the US.

  • Arron_Q says:

    I’m a big fan of the neo-vintage approach taken by brands like Rogue and Darren Alan. I have a bottle of Mousse Illuminee and am quite interested to see what Mr. Cross has done to further evolve the DNA into its absolute form. I must admit that the original can come off a bit abrasive at times as it’s green facets are quite sharp. I hope that the fungal and resinous elements in this one work to round off some of those edges. Best of luck to everyone. I live in NC, USA.

  • FragranceIsMe says:

    Manuel’s vintage creations with a modern flair have captured my attention. This latest creation being oak moss centered is one that I just have to try.
    USA

  • Eris.can.swatch.kaos says:

    I’m not one to do as much hiking these days as I did in my youth, but the smell! I can still almost taste the forest floor and hear the sunlight after all these years. It’s what I imagine this fragrance smells like, and I’m here for every whiff. A beautiful review for a scent so unique, thank you for the opportunity. I don’t have a favorite as I am unfamiliar with this house. I live in Oregon.

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Oakmoss has been a material in perfumery for a millennia (Dr. Elise Pearlstine’s deep dive into the material is a great read), and had a surge in popularity with the bold masculine scents of the 1980s. Classification as an allergen and restrictions beginning in 2009 brought attention back to oakmoss and created a wave of nostalgia, increasing demand for the experience of oakmoss in fragrance. Approximations, reconstructions, alternate materials, and even low dosages of oakmoss have all brought interesting layers and experimentation to contemporary green perfume. Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery is well known for his devotion to verdant materials, especially oakmoss, tree moss and camphoraceous aspects of nature like lavender and sagebrush. With his latest release, Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse, Manuel brings to life the essence of moss-covered woods.

    Opening with an invigorating pairing of olibanum and artemisia, Absolue de Mousse is at once harmonious and powerful. The bittersweet opening captures the best parts of a walking past a living rosemary bush with a fascinating blend of camphor and woody terpenes painted with herbaceous minty edge. The peppery lift of the olibanum provides a refreshing current of air flowing through its sweetening and thickening aspects. Absolue de Mousse has a dry down that combines spikenard’s earthy-leather fungal warmth with myrrh’s sweetly balsamic anisic mossy aspects. The softer, sweeter, and richer heft to this phase of Absolue de Mousse has great potential to wear this fall and beyond. Labdanum and musk give a proper clean stoke of resinous heat to the dry down. Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse has arrived at the perfect moment to celebrate nature’s turn to all things autumnal…it is forest floor magic in a bottle.

    Notes: oakmoss, tree moss, olibanum, artemisia, rose, nutmeg, orange blossom, clary sage, myrrh, labdanum, spikenard, musk. A beautiful description by Rachel really intrigued by the oakmoss, tree moss, olibanum and artemisia in the opening. The earthy leathery fungal in the dry down just highlights the magical nature of this fragrance. I am afraid this is a house that I have got no experience with. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    The bittersweet opening captures the best parts of a walking past a living rosemary bush with a fascinating blend of camphor and woody terpenes painted with herbaceous minty edge. The peppery lift of the olibanum provides a refreshing current of air flowing through its sweetening and thickening aspects. Absolue de Mousse has a dry down that combines spikenard’s earthy-leather fungal warmth with myrrh’s sweetly balsamic anisic mossy aspects. The softer, sweeter, and richer heft to this phase of Absolue de Mousse has great potential to wear this fall and beyond. Labdanum and musk give a proper clean stoke of resinous heat to the dry down. Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse has arrived at the perfect moment to celebrate nature’s turn to all things autumnal…it is forest floor magic in a bottle. I am especially intrigued by the opening woody terpenes painted with herbaceous minty edge. The peppery lift of the olibanum provides a refreshing current of air flowing through its sweetening and thickening aspects and the dry down of leather fungal moss. My favourite from this house is Flos mortis. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    This sounds so earthy and amazing. I am a big fan of the original mousse. I’d love to win this and live in Indiana.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Omg a thicker, warmer Mousse Illuminee sounds incredible! And your description of this fragrance is beautiful and I can just smell the forest through your words. I really love Manuel Cross’ fragrances, my favorite being Chypre Siam but there is not one in his catalogue that I don’t find beautiful. From the US.

  • skye says:

    I have a sample of Mousse Illuminee from the Rogue discovery set (highly recommend!) All of Manuel’s scents are interesting and well crafted and Mousse Illuminee is in my top three. A thicker, warmer version with a more pronounced oakmoss and spiced earth profile sounds like a perfect scent for Fall. MD, USA.

  • mmerline says:

    Mousse Illuminee is one of my favorite fragrances (Rogue’s Fougère L’Aube is my favorite in the lineup), so I was excited to see Cross was iterating on that accord in the best kind of flanker. Cross knows his way around powerful natural materials, especially a generous dose of oakmoss. And the way he designed Absolue de Mousse sounds terrific: the peppery-terpenic rosemary bush opening; the Mousse Illuminee accord filtered through autumnal forest floor; the combination of balsamic resins, musk, and earthy green in the base. Excellent review, Rachel. I can’t wait to try this.

    I’m in the USA.

  • absurdnose says:

    Absolue de Mousse sounds incredible. I absolutely love Oakmoss and I think Rogue perfumery does great work with such stellar ingredients. This sounds perfect for a mossy rainy fall. I have only smelled CHYPRE Siam from them which is gorgeous but I really want to try Jasmin Antique which I’ve heard great things about. Thank you for the draw! I live in the USA.

  • mleenstra says:

    This sounds absolutely up my street. Vintagey and mossy ready for the autumn season. I love the smell of forest floor. I have only tried Chypre Siam from Rogue and really enjoy the mossiness in that too. Marit UK

  • roxhas1cat says:

    Forest floor magic in a bottle sounds amazing. I know this line does green scents very well, I’ve smelled a few but the names escape me. The minty edge seems like a twist. I’d love to try this. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • Doubleoh says:

    now this is something I can get behind. I love scents with a heavy oakmoss note. It’s why I prefer Hacivat over Aventus. That dry down being so earthy is what im looking forward to.

    I live in Dallas, TX

  • Michael Prince says:

    What interests me about Rogue Perfumery Absolue de Mousse is learning more about Manuel Cross and his amazing fragrances. I learned more about tradtional notes in mens perfumery such as Oakmoss and Artemisia. This sounds super earthy, green, herbal, and aromatic. Manual Cross wanted to take the central accord of Mousse Illuminee and create a “thicker”, warmer scent.” Indeed, oakmoss and tree moss create the most welcome silvered glow. I haven’t tried anything from Rogue Perfumery, so I don’t have a favorite. I would love to try this. I am from the USA.