Puente Perfumes Zotikos courtesy of the brand
Let me stop here. Let me, too, look at nature awhile.
The brilliant blue of the morning sea, of the cloudless sky,
the yellow shore; all lovely,
all bathed in light. ~ from Morning Sea by Constantine P. Cafavy (Greek poet, 1863-1933))
Eliam Puente of Puente Perfumes courtesy of Eliam
Whenever artisanal perfumer Eliam Puente of Puente Perfumes is working on something new, I am eager to smell it. His first three perfumes (Medusa, Vespertine, and Iris Doux) were spectacular, and I purchased small bottles of each. I was excited when I learned of a summer citrus in the works months ago named Zotikos, after a small village in the Epirus region of Greece (Zotiko): a citrus, spiced gin and tonic fragrance bolstered by a woody ambergris-inspired base. Zotikos is an altogether different perfume than the previous three, which were exuberantly floral in nature – and I was understandably curious about it. I’ve come to the conclusion is that Puente Perfumes Zotikos is its own creature, separate from previous work – and a step towards a new direction.
gin and tonic iStock
As we envision the vast, miraculous broth which is the ocean from whence we evolved – it feels natural to link the sea with Eliam’s chosen name for his latest fragrance, Zotikos: it translates as “full of life”. How to create an elixir vitae encompassing the vigor of this primordial solution and balance the relaxed, sophisticated leisure of a summer gin and tonic? As well we know, many cocktail-inspired fragrances may flit upon the ether shortly after application. It’s simply their nature – and it is difficult to achieve a lasting impression with botanical materials alone. Puente Perfumes Zotikos conjures a dolce far niente atmosphere from the outset with an explosion of bergamot, bigarade and lemon accompanied by a goodly dash of black pepper; the pepper serves multiple functions, as it is floral, dry, and spicy all at once. Zotikos’ heart is pure gin – brimming with zesty juniper berry, coriander, a complex spice accord, and prized angelica root (Beefeater Gin’s botanical lineup uses both seed and root, for example). Angelica, by the way – is very persistent for such a relatively delicate aroma, and a little goes a long way; it shares both earthy, peppery notes and musky/woody ones.
Water Splashing courtesy of Eliam Puente
At the base of Puente Perfumes Zotikos is where we find ourselves amidst the flotsam and jetsam of the open waves: we can credit Givaudan’s Ambrofix™ for that. This potent aromatic material is said to be one of the closest evocations of true ambergris among today’s sustainable synthetics, and although it is often derived from clary sage, a new process has evolved in which sugar cane is employed instead. Its woody, arid amber tone brings to mind driftwood and the ships’ hulls as they lie drying in the blazing sun – a fitting manner of completing the entire experience of summer by the sea in Greece. There is a trace of salinity present, tenderly cradled in a judicious dose of vetiver and gentled by white musk.
The Estaque, 1906 by Georges Braque
Puente Perfumes Zotikos is a beautiful, long-lasting departure from Eliam’s previous oeuvres, and a charming one. Precious few of us can resist the scent of the open air and an ocean voyage (sans Calone®, Firmenich) as citrus groves waft their splendor. Zotikos is a Mediterranean vacation encapsulated.
Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, black pepper, juniper berry, coriander, spices, angelica root, Ambrofix™, vetiver, white musk
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the largesse of perfumer Eliam Puente we have a 12.5 ml flacon of Puente Perfumes Zotikos for one registered reader worldwide. You must register of your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what appealed to you in Ida’s review of Puente Perfumes Zotikos, and where you live. Draw closes 8/18/2023
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