Pitti Fragranze entry image via Instagram /my ÇaFleureBon Pitti press badge

Major fragrance events occur every year – and, practically speaking – relatively few among us can attend them all, if any. Travel (particularly international travel, it seems) has provided many challenges this year. I had to make a choice and prepare early on: whether to attend Esxence Milano in the spring, or Pitti Fragranze 2023 at summer’s end. We opted to attend Pitti. It was my first time there – which coincided felicitously with Pitti Fragranze’s 20th year anniversary.

 

Duomo Firenze photo Ida and B

Florence is a magnificent city to begin with: brimming with history, all manner of the arts (including culinary and oenological) and breathtaking vistas.  It is said that Pitti Fragranze is more relaxed than Esxence and less crowded – and that was certainly the case. The number of attendees was limited due to rigorous screening and accreditation. Unfortunately, I was only able to attend on Friday and Saturday due to unforeseen illness. I was able to smell properly for those two days, and took full advantage. Pitti is a beautiful venue, and an elegant one. In general, the booths were cleverly decorated and perfumes were displayed to their best advantage, with wonderful lighting, use of color and design.

Fragrant Highlights and Best of Show at Pitti Fragranze

While there were a great many fragrances in residence, there are several which stood out in memory, for one reason or another – and I’d like to acquaint you with a few of them.

Photo via CaFleureBon and Ida ©

One of the most memorable was perfumer Olivier Durbano’s latest work, Pierre Blanche Prophétie (White Stone Prophecy), inspired by a Biblical passage from Revelations 2:17. I was immediately moved by the uplifting purity and légèreté of this perfume, which is so adept at balancing the ethereal and the earthly in a weightless fragrance. It hovers over one’s flesh beneficently; I am fairly certain that my fellow writers feel similarly, and with good reason.

Maria Candida Gentile Viradarium courtesy of Ermano©

From master perfumer Maria Candida Gentile came a delightful new offering inspired by Madame’s visit to Rome’s Museo Nazionale, where she lingered over a frescoed garden from the underground hall of Livia Drusilla’s villa from the 1st C. B.C.: Viridarium. The perfumer refers to this composition as a “botanical catalogue”, and Viridarium possesses the wonderful sense of effortless naturalness often experienced among her fragrant body of work. It felt like a breath of fresh air amidst Pitti’s very warm and humid climate.

 Estoras Co Travel trunk and creative director Paul-Anton Esterházy photo Ida©

Everyone adores a fascinating tale, especially if it is a true one: Vienna-based historical line Estoras Co is predicated upon Hungarian Prince Antal Esterházy’s epic adventure with Count Lászlo Almásy (yes, The English Patient!) across the Sahara in 1926. Esterházy’s grandson became intrigued with the residue from an abandoned perfume vial, and created three fragrances to commemorate his illustrious grandfather’s sense of adventure based upon his travel diary. These were recommended to me by fellow traveler, soulmate, and Contributor Danu Seith-Fyr – who is always in touch with points of mutual confluence.

 Notefluide perfumer/creative director Michela Cagnoni and me and display: Photo Ida© collage Michelyn©

A new Italian line entitled NoteFluide caught my eye and nose: the founder, art director, and perfumer Michela Cagnoni has composed four out of the five offerings, with perfumer Luca Maffei as the nose for Oudverture. Michela’s conservatory training as a jazz singer/musician, and her pronounced synaesthesia – led her to train as a perfumer. Her work has been inspired by the musical compositions of U. Petrin, her musical mentor. Each scent is long-lasting and lyrical – and each has its own unique personality.

 Sultan Pasha and me at Pitti /Shekor fragrance Photo Ida© collage Michelyn©

Sultan Pasha attended Pitti this year, and ‘soft-launched’ a new fragrance called Shekor (Roots) on the evening of September 16th at a nearby pasticceria. This fragrance was created for Al-Amin Abedin in celebration of Bangladesh, and its unforgettable monsoon season: exquisitely floral, with racinous tones and whispers of my much-loved mitti. I was greatly appreciative that Sultan gifted me with a generous sample spray – as well as some precious drops of a yet-unknown delectable attar. In 2024, we can look forward to another fragrance created by Antonio Gardoni in collaboration with Sultan and Al-Amin.

 

Michele Marin and Alex Postiglione with Oracle at Pitti/ Michele Marin and me at Pitti Photo Ida© Bottle via Michele ©collage Michelyn©

Erotic tales from royalty: Extra Virgo Florence is a fascinating brand which launched at Pitti Fragranze last year with its decadent collection of Forbidden Botanica – the aromatic progeny of H.H Alex Postiglione, Prince Ne Min Gy of Limbin (heir to the last king of Burma/Myanmar). Alex was born and raised in Florence, where he studied art, anthropology, and became enamored of plants. Our  Contributor Danu Seith-Fyr recently reviewed Extra Virgo’s Art and Olfaction Award Finalist Animal Café, a collaboration between Alex and perfumer Michele Marin. Oracle, their latest parfum, is a luminous, transcendent elixir imbued with sacred elements – an irresistible amalgam of pure light emerging from glorious botanical essences.

Aqua di Noto display and me Photo Ida© 

A relatively new Sicilian brand, Aqua di Noto, captured my attention due to both its artistic presentation and its devotion to old school grand perfumery. All five fragrances balance traditional vintage quality while avoiding the pitfall of smelling dated. It is clear that these perfumes are created with fine olfactory materials and craftsmanship – and I wish them every success.

Ermano, Agarthi, Perfume of the Metaverse Photo Ida© 

Panels: Multiple opportunities for enrichment and education were available to attendees. Headsets were available with translation into English which helped, but the auditory aspect was still somewhat compromised overall. Some of the more fascinating panels included a presentation of raw materials from MANE with saturated mouillettes: Scents of the Collective Unconscious. It explored the odors of familiar childhood objects, the outdoors, culinary memory, the home. We had the opportunity to smell multiple captives which contribute greatly to olfactory realism and fantasy, and provide new ways of presenting extraordinary aromas for fragrance formulae.

20 Anni Fa – Senza Nostalgia” (20 Years Since, Without Nostalgia): the speakers included Italian perfumers Laura Bosetti Tonatto, Lorenzo Villoresi and creative director Ulrich Lang photo Ida

Another very special panel was entitled “20 Anni Fa – Senza Nostalgia” (20 Years Since, Without Nostalgia): the speakers included Italian perfumers Laura Bosetti Tonatto, Lorenzo Villoresi and creative director Ulrich Lang. In this discussion changes in the industry, niche perfumery, retail, branding, bloggers/vloggers, and Pitti Fragranze itself were brought to light. I attended several others as well; everywhere the presence and discussion of AI was strongly felt – along with prospects for its future application.

Of Note: Despite being less populated than Esxence (I was there in 2019 along with Michelyn and Ermano), it can be challenging to speak with exhibitors at Pitti. In some instances, I simply gave up trying. It should be noted that there was a strong security presence which I found disconcerting; one is aware that they are being watched and followed (without any discernible reason). In addition, the large list of brands is somewhat misleading, because they were represented by distributors who neither exhibited much of the product, had little-to-no samples or fragrances to sniff, and/or knew very little about the brands they represent. Most distributors were polite but unable to be of help. Had I been a fragrance neophyte, I would likely have dismissed these houses out of hand.

Samples: Not every exhibitor offers samples, nor do they all necessarily have them. Often, there are limited quantities available – and I found that several perfumers offered them to me because I was sincerely interested, a good listener, and genuinely polite.

Ulrich Lang and Karen Marin of Essencional/ Suzy Nightingale and me/ Elena Cvjetkovic and me/ Rossella Caputo and me

Personal Highlights: Part of the fun of such events is catching up with old friends and making new ones. It was wonderful to meet other journalists and members of the ÇaFleureBon team: Lauryn Beer, Ermano Picco, and Danu Seith-Fyr. I don’t wish to name drop or prevail upon your good humor – so please enjoy a few photos for yourselves.

In Conclusion: Pitti Fragranze is a marvelous destination, and one which I appreciated experiencing. Florence has a great deal to offer on so many levels, that one does well to allot ample time to explore it fully. It makes for a unique and memorable visit.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Please revisit Ermano’s Pitti recap here and Danu’s here

It’s a wrap with Lauryn tomorrow

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @idameister @pittifragranze