Pitti Fragranze 2024 – Florence – Danu Seith-Fyr

Each Pitti Fragranze held in the beautiful city of Florence elicits from me the same response, a yearning to return to a place I call my second home and the exhibition is a huge part of this homecoming but this year something had changed, the usual excitement, the familiar faces, the perfectly paced days, that same pleasure and delight. As often said Pitti Fragranze allows us the space and freedom to truly connect with the brands and the perfumers visited, that all too human luxury of time with others. Here it is, yet this year for Pitti Fragranze (September 13-15) has something else, more excitement, a heightened buzz in the air that affirms Pitti Fragranze is expanding, yet gracefully still retaining its elegant essence. Still after all these years of attending I feel as I enter that first day, an effervescent anticipation rising inside me, a reset, to enter a place of discovery and wonder as if I am about to embark on an adventure of a very special nature.  So here we go, I write in no particular order of those precious few days, all carry the same merit, the people, the visits, the meetings, the talks attended and the after-events.

Michele Marin and Michele Marin Essenza – Danu Seith-Fyr at Pitti Fragranze 2024

If I was asked to name highlights, one would be the long-awaited release of the first collection for his own brand by perfumer Michele Marin, a superb artisan who has crafted so many, unique creations for others and now finally, here it was, Michele Marin Essenza, a fine collection of 4 perfumes plus a Limited Edition.  I knew that these perfumes would be good but they were truly exceptional. Favoured places, captured moments of life, each perfume’s muse, a polaroid detail. E24 Edoard’eau, a very clever and exceptional lilt of the head to Cologne, infused with Edwardian elegance and bought completely into the 21st century.  E21 Florentine Gardenia – An ode to this most beautiful city, a beauty that exudes from every stone, the air stirs in swathes of it, an infusion to life. A unique Gardenia perfume it drapes upon me like the finest silk chiffon.  E70 Paris – Venice – the elegant chic odour of a Paris Spring paired with the sublime rich tapestry of cultures and history that is Venice.  E03 Royal Antique – Ancient places echoing with the stories of collected pieces, filling the room with tales of cities past and adventures under myriad suns, spices and amber cossetted with ambrette, bring to life a sanctuary of treasured objects.  E15 Tell Me About Dubai – magnificent seduction of finely balanced traces of the Middle East, addictive and spirited it reels high above deserts on wings of resins and spices.  As Michele says this collection is ‘Extracts of distilled emotions, made with care, inspiration and magic’.

Olivier Durbano and Gushing Water Stone – Pitti Fragranze 2024 Danu Seith-Fyr

The newest release from dear Olivier Durbano was also a highly anticipated discovery, (introduced  first to the fragrance community, since Citrine in 2011 by Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen and reviewed by the incomparable Ida Meister here), on this latest addition to a superb line spanning now 20 years. Each year Olivier adds to his unique collection, always with that golden thread of ‘Durbano authenticity and spiritual depth’. Olivier has been attending Pitti Fragranze 24 for the past 18 years and his booth is always a haven of tranquility and friendship.  The 20th perfume is La Pierre De L’Eau Jaillissante or The Gushing Water Stone. Immensely complex and at the same time, clear and simple in its message. Its construction invites us to open our eyes in these intense times and contemplate the source where our true freedom lies. Olivier is an enduring master in the fast-changing realms.

Kajal – Moe Khalaf, Danu and Lamar Noir – Danu Seith-Fyr Pitti Fragranze 2024

Making my way to my next appointment again with this bubbling excitement arising in my body, at Pitti Fragranze 24, emotions are enhanced and familiar faces and new discoveries transport me to out of the ordinary, such is power of this world of creative beauty.

Seeing Moe Khalaf and Nathalie at KAJAL was my next stop and I had been keen to experience the newest addition to an already exceptional collection. As always, the warmest of welcomes and the gift of time which is greatly appreciated. Lamar, one of the biggest successes of the brand and the launch of a different format with Lamar Caviar last year further enhanced that.  Now we are presented with Lamar Noir, a darker, more intense take which nods its sultry head in a brazen glance at Lamar, in its fruit-driven head but is quite frankly a different creature, a creature of night and shadows where another light may be found.  From its elegant and refined black bottle to the silky, seductive perfume within, it will no doubt become the newest success in Kajal’s portfolio as the brand celebrates its 10-year anniversary this year, no mean feat! Described as a journey of inner alchemy, Lamar Noir is opulent and darkly addictive. The story of how this perfume arose and its perfumer Patrick Mueller ……  is quite something.

Thomas de Monaco, Ultima Storia, Rito Italy – Stefano Torreggiani, William Gabriele and Davide Martini, Golden Island – Danu Seith-Fyr

Thomas de Monaco presented his new bottles and packaging, supremely elegant with Thomas himself as friendly and approachable as ever.  As I wrote in my Esxence report,  the new release, Ultima Storia is a delicious slice of Italian lifestyle, a citrus gourmand meaning the ‘Latest Story’ or in this case the last perfume of the first collection. t was also the launching pad for the Thomas de Monaco Investment funding campaign. Thomas has always viewed his creations and his endeavors through a different lens and as his perfume house has thrived, a threshold has been reached and he is offering a way to become a shareholder in Thomas de Monaco. This gives the investor the chance to be part of a rising brand.

It was my pleasure to meet again with Davide Martini and Stefano Torreggiani from Rito Italy. Building on their success from last year they expanded my knowledge of their collection by introducing the newest release ‘Golden Island’ perfumer Chris Maurice and also to William Gabriel, their new UK Development Manager. Going from strength to strength ‘Golden Island ‘is just that, the ticket to fly away to a paradise, it is a softly warmed breeze through verdancy, that invitation to unwind, so needed.

Collection Les Ambres – Houbigant and Portofino Collection – Perris Monte Carlo Pitti Fragranze 2024- Danu Seith-Fyr

Just outside the main halls of Stazione Leopolda in Florence, in a hotel suite, I was invited to join Perris Monte Carlo and Houbigant to spend some time with their latest developments. To my great delight and surprise, the Perris family were in attendance, such a pleasure to see Gianluca Perris and his sister Elisabetta Perris again. A wonderful family with a deep sense of ethics and patrimoine.  Houbigant, such a historical house revived in the Perris hands, which I am greatly admirative of, have released a new collection of 3 perfumes– Collection Les Ambres created by a collaboration made in heaven of perfumers Luca Maffei and Antoine Lie, how I would have loved to be that proverbial ‘Fly on the Wall’ for that process.  Vanille Imperiale – a truly refined vanilla which transports you effortlessly from day to night, in chic attire.  Ambre Rubis – Cherry and woods in such a harmony, curiously eye-opening, I sense the darkest globes of succulent ripeness, one to covet.  Rose de Desert – A rose, yes but so deftly composed with florals, patchouli and cedar as to emerge dewy and resplendent in full blown abandon.  Perris Monte Carlo presented a new perfume, Encens Sacre, a perfume dedicated to Frankincense but skilfully combining two very different extractions, it is softly enveloping, like clouds of incense in sacred places that offer sanctuary and a place of contemplation. I am an unabashed devotee of the material and this creation is exceptional in its interpretation and in the quality of its components. A sublime interweaving of the sweet, balsamic character and a high-quality distillation of burnt incense, the combination offering new insights into this ancient raw material. A high devotional and an incense as I have never encountered before.

I was also presented with the Portofino Collection available only in a few stores one of which, of course is in Portofino, beautiful expressions of a life on the Italian coast, full of light and vitality, the essence of azure seas and skies and the love of relaxed living.

Maison Tahite – Vanille de Minuit- Danu Seith-Fyr at Pitti Fragranze 2024

Saddened to not be able to see my friend Daniela Caon, unable to attend and Roberto Drago, as he was deep in business conversations, from Kaon Distribution.  However familiar faces at their booth led me to discover new releases for many of their brands. Laboratorio Olfattivo presented ‘Oud in White’, by CPL AROMAS Senior Perfumer Julian Rasquinet, a quite different take on traditional Ouds, light and airy, unmistakable oud but married with jasmine, this originated from a request by Daniela to have an Oud that flew, that loosened its earthly, animalic roots and was transported by this white floral power. Neither aspect overpowers the other, seamlessly offering a quite special trip.

At the same booth a sneak preview in prototype only of upcoming releases from Atelier des Ors. Shhhhh, Lips are sealed, I suspect my upcoming visit to Cannes will reveal more. Maison Tahite built on their collection of Vanilla inspired perfumes after the release of Vanilla Park  and Arabican Rose at Esxence, here at Pitti it was Vanille de Minuit – perfumer Marie Duchene, a provocative vanilla, immaculate taste and stilettoed heels, however….. midnight chimes and the airs relax, shirt collars are loosened and the heels are removed, here is a moment in darkened, ancient piazzas to dance barefoot to a rhumba when no-one is watching. Liberating and evocative. Read Editor Olya Bar review of Vanilla Park here.

Extra Virgo Oracle and excerpts from the film – Danu Seith-Fyr

Ever since discovering the collection of Extra Virgo at Pitti Fragranze in 2022, there has thrived a growing friendship between us and admiration for the perfumes they exhibit, created with founder HH Prince Alex Postiglione Ne Min Gyi of Limbin and Michele Marin. Oracle which was released in 2023 featured again at Pitti Fragranze 24 as the premiere screening of a film dedicated to the muse and Oracle was previewed. This exceptional and emotive film directed by Giovanna Gorassini, starring Kristina Bazan and Matteo Pozzi and with captivating music by Francesco Frilli and Indra Music was screened at the Castle Montecucchi, the ancestral home of Alex. I was honoured to be invited to the intimate screening and dinner amongst friends. Read Ida’s review of Oracle here.

My thanks and gratitude for enduring friendships and trust in my creative art from all the Perfumers and Perfume brands and to Pitti Fragranze 2024 for consistently organising a fair that reflects the best in artistic Perfumery. My thanks also for samples received. Part 2 to follow (then I am off to Cannes).

Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor

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