pH fragrances Tubéreuse & Ylang de Pashmina, Vétiver & Santal de Cuir, Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie (photo: Despina Veneti©)
Considering the ever-growing number of consumers seeking products devoid of substances that are harmful/potentially damaging to human health or the environment, “clean fragrance” emerges as a solid basis for a new Perfume House. In 2018, Camille Le Feuvre (no stranger to the world of luxury and personal care/home products, having worked for a year in Chanel London, four years in Grasse, and ten years as a commercial director at Givaudan) launched pH fragrances, a clean, ecologically and socially conscious premium French fragrance brand. After two years of research, sourcing and development, Mme Le Feuvre was able to present her inaugural collection of eight fragrances composed by four Givaudan perfumers: Yann Vasnier (Iris & Musc de Liberty, Tubéreuse & Ylang de Pashmina), Quentin Bisch (Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie, Patchouli & Cèdre de Tweed), Marypierre Julien (Gardénia & Jasmin de Cachemire), and Nisrine Bouazzaoui Grillié (Néroli & Bergamote de Denim, Mistral & Fleur de Vichy, Vétiver & Santal de Cuir).
Founder/creative director of pH fragrances Camille Le Feuvre and pH fragrances products (collage by Despina Veneti, fragrance photos by Nathalie Sicard© courtesy of pH fragrances©)
All scents are biodegradable and largely (84-93%) made of natural ingredients, many of which are a part of Givaudan’s Orpur® portfolio – an expanding collection of high-quality raw materials sourced ethically and sustainably. Using the same oil compositions of their eaux de parfum, pH fragrances are also producing clean products for personal (shower gels, hand/body creams, deodorants) and home (candles, diffusers, laundry detergents) care. In accordance to the brand’s ethos, the packaging is made of fully recyclable glass and PET, with the fragrances being housed in dark, apothecary-style bottles. Equally important is what pH fragrances products do NOT contain, and that is a long list of 100 controversial ingredients (among them, phthalates, parabens, benzenes, mineral oils, silicone, galaxolide/synthetic musks, UV filters, colorants), linked to toxicity/cumulative effect on human health or contamination/destabilisation of ecosystems. Regarding the eaux de parfum, the alcohol used is of vegetal origin (beetroot), while all formulae are validated by toxicologists. Most impressively, pH fragrances have succeeded in offering elaborate fine fragrances using a drastically restricted palette (excluding all ingredients that don’t meet the brand’s strict standards); all eight scents are well-crafted, utterly enjoyable and easily wearable, straightforward but by no means linear. For my introductory piece on pH fragrances, I chose to spotlight my three favorites.
Perfumer Yann Vasnier and pH fragrances Tubéreuse & Ylang de Pashmina (collage by Despina Veneti, fragrance photos by Nathalie Sicard© courtesy of pH fragrances©)
Tubéreuse & Ylang de Pashmina (Yann Vasnier): From the moment this opulent fragrance touched my skin, a heady, hothouse blend of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and tuberose exploded in all its intoxicating glory, sweetened by sunny, succulent citruses (orange, bergamot) and energizing, dulcet-toned spices (ginger, clove). At first, the extroverted tuberose appeared as the undeniable floral protagonist – after the first half hour though, the inherent fruitiness of ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose gradually mellowed the composition, aided by the grounding effect of coniferous incense and lactonic benzoin from Laos. Tubéreuse & Ylang of Pashmina eventually dried down to a pleasing, ambery-delicious floralcy that radiates the warm, seductive energy of a hot kiss in a humid tropical garden. Notes: Orange Orpur®, Ginger Orpur®, Bergamot, Rose, Tuberose Orpur®, Jasmine, Clove, Ylang-Ylang Orpur®, Benzoin Orpur® (87% natural composition)
Perfumer Nisrine Bouazzaoui Grillié and pH fragrances Vétiver & Santal de Cuir (collage by Despina Veneti, fragrance photos by Nathalie Sicard© courtesy of pH fragrances©)
Vétiver & Santal de Cuir (Nisrine Bouazzaoui Grillié): This suave woody scent at once commanded my attention with its unexpected, chai latte-reminiscent opening – a result of the synergy between the perfumer’s own “hot milk” accord, tea-like jasmine, vanillic sandalwood, almondy tonka bean and herbaceous, grassy/earthy vetiver from Haiti. As the hours passed, the soft woodiness turned even more lactonic and progressively ambery, emphasising on the spicy creaminess of Australian sandalwood, surrounded by sweet, mildly smoky resins. A proper showcase of the various olfactive facets of its two central raw materials, Vétiver & Santal de Cuir makes for an excellent choice for perfume lovers who seek an elegantly woody natural fragrance with gourmand undertones. Notes: Hot Milk Accord, Jasmine, Vetiver Orpur®, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood Orpur®, Amber, Musk (92% natural composition)
Perfumer Quentin Bisch and pH fragrances Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie (collage by Despina Veneti, fragrance photos by Nathalie Sicard© courtesy of pH fragrances©)
Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie (Quentin Bisch): A French Fragrance Foundation Award finalist (in the category “Responsible Innovation”), this intense floral held a few surprises for me. The scent’s name reflects notes and not principal natural ingredients, as the two titular flowers are interpreted through the use of other raw materials. The two actual main floral components are loukum-sweet rose (both Turkish and Bulgarian) and honey-dripping orange flower from Morocco, based on which Mr. Bisch managed to create an abstract impression of a huge, all-encompassing pink/white bouquet that feels luscious in an almost edible way. Touches of citruses (bergamot, mandarin) and unusual greenness (davana, vetiver) support the illusion of magnolias and peonies, with a vegetal musk accord running through them like gentle breeze. Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie aptly proves that a 93% natural fragrance can very well be sophisticated and strong-performing. Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Orpur®, Davana Orpur®, Bulgarian Rose Orpur®, Turkish Rose Orpur®, Orange Blossom Orpur®, Vanilla, Musk, Vetiver Orpur®, Honey (93% natural composition)
Disclaimer: I’d like to thank pH fragrances for the travel sprays and samples. The opinions are my own.
Editor’s note: pH fragrances are generously donating 50€ for each 100ml bottle purchase through their website to the AP-HP (Assistance Publique des Hôpitaux de Paris) aid fund, dedicated to help medical teams and researchers during the COVID-19 health crisis.
– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor
pH fragrances travel sprays (photo: Despina Veneti©)
Thanks to the generosity of pH fragrances and Camille Le Feuvre, we have a draw for a set of three 15ml travel sprays of Tubéreuse & Ylang de Pashmina, Vétiver & Santal de Cuir and Magnolia & Pivoine de Soie (value: 114€) for one registered reader in USA, EU or UK. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s article, which pH fragrance you might enjoy the most, and where you live. How important is sustainability when you purchases a perfume? Draw closes 4/1/2021
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