Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather (Photo: Despina Veneti)©
With its decision to introduce the Trade Routes Collection in 2014 (initially comprising Lothair, Empressa and Levantium), the Historic House of Penhaligon’s London took a calculated risk that paid off handsomely: the rich, complex scents were warmly welcomed by fragrance lovers, including many who had been thus far enamored with the brand’s olfactory tradition of more demure (but no less beautiful) offerings. In 2015 the Penhaligon’s Trade Routes line was enriched with Halfeti, whose spicy and oudy, warm and dry rose was not only fondly embraced by passionate perfumistas, but also by a wider consuming public. The air in Penhaligon’s boutiques still smells of Halfeti, while the fragrance’s impressive, almost addictive sillage led many people to seek and buy it for themselves after smelling it on others, turning the scent into one of the most commercially successful niche releases of the last five years. Halfeti’s first flanker, Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather, is now widely available to buyers (after a year as a Selfridges exclusive), and is composed – just like the original – by perfumer Christian Provenzano of CPL Aromas Dubai.
Christian Provenzano, Perfumer/Global Director of Perfumery at CPL Aromas, with his creations, Penhaligon’s London Halfeti & Halfeti Leather (Bottom left & upper photo courtesy of Penhaligon’s / Bottom right photo by Despina Veneti)©
The perfumer wisely opted to compose a fragrance that retains some similarities with the original Halfeti (mostly in the base notes), but different enough to make it a noteworthy stand-alone creation. Penhaligon’s Halfeti was named after the eponymous Turkish village on the banks of the Euphrates river, where the impressive, fabled black roses grow; it was further a homage to the trade of lavish goods (exotic florals, spices, leather and fabrics) from that area to the West. The rose was understandably chosen as Halfeti’s main note, with a cornucopia of citruses, spices and florals revolving around it, before resting on an opulent base of oud, leather, woods and amber. Interestingly enough, the rose is no protagonist in Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather; although it is mentioned in the accompanying text of the fragrance’s press release, it is not listed among the official notes. If there is any rose in Halfeti Leather, it is certainly far from being prominent; what the fragrance actually explores and focuses on are the leather aspects of the original Halfeti, supported by generous doses of (different, this time) spices, a delicious fruity accord, as well as a smoky/woody base.
Model Kris Grikaite photographed by Collier Schorr© for Vogue Italia, 2019
Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather opens with succulent bergamot accented by grapefruit undertones, along with a delightful prune accord that defines the first stage of the scent’s evolution. Once these dark fruits get sprinkled with the emerging plethora of spices (a highly energising cardamom overdose, followed by warming nutmeg, electrifying cinnamon, and a slight touch of cumin), they assume the mouth-watering, non-excessive sweetness of a highly aromatic, dried plum compote. As soon as the elegant, sober violet (the fragrance’s most prominent floral note) blooms, the leather accord starts to evolve, aided by the developing incense, labdanum and patchouli. It is the scent of a soft suede leather – smoky, spicy and fragrant – harmonically contrasted with the freshness of cedar leaf and the lingering citruses, the sweetness of vanillic amber and the ever-persistent prune accord, along with discreet touches of herbal lavender and sensual oud. The drydown of Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather is mainly a woods, incense and patchouli affair that turns more masculine-leaning on my skin, compared to the fragrance’s previous stages.
Model Marvina photographed by Elena Kholkina© for Hint Fashion Magazine
For those interested in learning about novel ingredients and technological innovations, no less than three CPL Aromas exclusive captives were used in the formula of Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather: Citrus Fusion, Cedar Fusion and Incense Fusion. All three are product of the company’s complex molecular distillation process called AromaFusion©, during which high-quality raw materials are combined to create completely new captive ingredients. Concerning the ones used in Halfeti Leather, Citrus Fusion is described by the manufacturing company as “a heady combination of aromatic grapefruit with previous woody and nutty characteristics that enhances the depth of fragrances while adding a sparkling top note”, Incense Fusion as “a tenacious fusion of natural, resinous amber notes with deep fruit and spice notes, finished with contemporary amber tones imparting rich, leather characteristics to base notes”, and Cedar Fusion as “a balsamic fusion of incense with cedarwood… as well as a natural partner to musks and woods”.
Nigerian man photographed by Lakin Ogunbanwo© for vogue.com
Retaining a basic bond with the original Halfeti, while carving its own – distinctive and intriguing – olfactive path, Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather is a highly pleasurable take on smoky, spicy leather, paired beautifully with a delectable fruity accord. With a second version (Halfeti Cedar) recently released as a Selfridges exclusive, the Penhaligon’s Halfeti family seems destined to expand to, and explore, many other engaging and fascinating aromatic territories.
Listed Notes: Bergamot, Green Notes, Prune, Citrus Fusion; Lavender, Cardamom, Cumin, Nutmeg, Violet, Cinnamon; Leather, Incense Fusion, Oud, Patchouli, Cedar Fusion.
Disclaimer: I’d like to thank Penhaligon’s for my bottle of Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor
Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather (Photo courtesy of Penhaligon’s)©
Thanks to the generosity of Penhaligon’s, we have a draw for a 100ml bottle of Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather (value: £178) for one registered reader in USA, UK or Europe. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, if you have a Penhaligon’s Trade Routes favorite fragrance, and where you live. Drawcloses 8/22/20
Editor’s Note: Despina’s Instapost of Penhaligon’s Cairo is a Perfumed Plume Finalist 2020.
Follow us on Instagram: @cafleurebon @despinavnt @penhaligons_london @cpl_aromas
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume