Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense (Photo: Despina Veneti)©
When my Editor-in-chief asked me which fragrance I’d like as a birthday present, it surprisingly took me only a minute to answer: that would be Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense. Just a few days before I had finally tested the scent properly, and I was blown away by the fact that it seemed to be even better than the original 1989 New-York (which I loved). Due to the IFRA restrictions on oakmoss and citruses, several fragrance lovers felt that the reformulated New-York EdT had become a tad too faint. Patricia de Nicolaï, like a modern alchemist, worked her magic: in 2014 she presented her New York Intense, an EdP that fully restored the glory of her initial creation.
Despina with fellow ÇaFleureBon Editor Ermano Picco & Mme de Nicolaï during “The Golden Age of Italian Perfumery” conference, organized by the Osmothèque (Photo courtesy of Ermano)©
Although a member of the Guerlain family, a formally trained and talented perfumer, as well as the first female recipient of the “Best Young Perfumer” Award of the Société Française des Parfumeurs, Patricia de Nicolaï was never given the chance to continue the Guerlain tradition as an in-house perfumer. However, that did not prevent her from emerging as one of the greatest contemporary “noses”. With the encouragement of her husband, Jean-Louis Michau, she started her own company – Parfums de Nicolaï – in 1989, just a few years before Guerlain would be sold to the LVMH group. Always graceful, Mme de Nicolaï has repeatedly acknowledged the fascinating creative atmosphere in which she grew up, living in the Guerlain family “Hôtel Particulier”, and the olfactory stimuli of the first 20 years of her life there. Parfums de Nicolaï was one of the very first brands to place the perfumer-creator in the spotlight, and Patricia de Nicolaï’s own creations include some of the most beautiful “traditionally original” (as she likes to call her style) fragrances of the last 30 years. In addition to all these, she’s been a most successful President of L’Osmothèque (the famous Versailles-based perfume conservatory) since 2008.
Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense & One United Nations Plaza, N.Y.C. (Photo: Despina Veneti)©
Nicolaï New-York was launched in 1989, and it was based on an unsold formula that Patricia de Nicolaï had created when she was still a perfumer at Quest (now Givaudan). The 2014 New York Intense EdP is essentially the pre-reformulation New-York, but even deeper, richer, rounder. It opens with spectacularly bright, zesty citruses (lemon, bergamot, petitgrain), combined with herbaceous thyme and absinthe-like artemisia. The glorious oakmoss – dark, earthy, and mysterious (as it should be) – is to me perceptible right from the start, only increasing in depth. A sprinkle of pepper, cinnamon and (mostly) clove adds warmth and intensity to the composition, while the floralcy of top-quality lavender provides an interesting counterpoint. The gorgeous heart of Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense blends into perfection with the complex base of vanilla, incense, styrax, patchouli and musk, resulting into fascinating olfactory synergies that range from spicy citruses to lemon cake-like amber. A distinctive earthy/herbal character is present throughout the fragrance’s evolution, along with discreet animalic undertones (civet, castoreum), and powdery nuances. The sillage of Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense is impressive, and the scent’s longevity easily reaches 10 hours.
Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense & N.Y. Life Building in Manhattan (Photo/Digital effects: Despina Veneti)©
Let it be noted that the fragrance’s name has puzzled many perfume aficionados over the years, for “New York” was a rather unexpected choice for a scent so rich in natural ingredients, so far removed from images of the “Big Apple’s” skyscrapers and urban landscapes. The brand does make an association between the energy of the scent, and of the “city that never sleeps”; Mme de Nicolaï has, however, mentioned that she named her fragrance “New York” because she missed her dear sister who had been living in the U.S. metropolis for many years. As a loving olfactory tribute of a Parisian perfumer to her beloved, far-away sister, as a scented letter of love that bridges the Atlantic filled with fragrant memories, the name suddenly makes lots of sense.
Central Park, N.Y.C. (Photo: Scott Dunn/Getty Images)©
In her New York Intense, Patricia de Nicolaï fuses together the cologne, chypre, fougère, oriental and aromatic genre into a seamless composition of extraordinary radiance and admirable balance, infused with a retro touch, a bien-être aura, and lots of soul. Although it’s often compared to Guerlain Habit Rouge, Héritage and Derby, Chanel Pour Monsieur, Boucheron Pour Homme and Jaipur Homme, or Creed Bois du Portugal, New York Intense is instantly, and unmistakably, recognizable. Although I sometimes selfishly wish it won’t become too popular, I’m always delighted to smell it on men. It makes for an effortlessly classy, timelessly elegant, self-assured but never cocky, masculine scent – but it’s also spectacular on women. Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense does for the wearer what Central Park does for New Yorkers: it’s a breathing, seemingly timeless, oasis in the middle of urban reality.
Notes: Petitgrain Citronnier, Bergamot, Lemon, Thyme, Artemisia; Black Pepper, Clove, Cinnamon, Lavender, Chamomile; Oakmoss, Vanilla, Styrax, Incense, Musk, Civet, Castoreum.
Disclaimer: This review was based on a bottle of Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense that was gifted to me for my birthday. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor
Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense 30ml (Photo courtesy of Parfums de Nicolaï)©
Thanks to the generosity of Parfums de Nicolai, we have a draw for a 30ml bottle of Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, if you have a favorite Parfums de Nicolai fragrance, and where you live. Draw closes 7/17/2019
Editor’s Note: My January 2014 interview with Mme. Patricia de Nicolaï was a celebration of 25 years as an independent perfumer and can be read here. She has always been a role model for me; the original “Girl Boss of Niche Perfumery.” –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
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