Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé Review (Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) 2021 + Masterpiece in Green draw

 

Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé Review

 Casa di l’Orcu dolmen (in Corsica) – picture via Corse-Matin, edited  for Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé by Emmanuelle Varron.

There is a new Parfum d’Empire and that is always cause for celebration. The brand was happy to reveal Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé “avant premiere” to a few fortunate journalists during the first days of March. As a longtime fan of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s work (Parfum d’Empire founder and “nose”), I was very thankful and excited to be part of  the press debut, and to share it with our readers.

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum d'Empire

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato via Parfum d’Empire

What does “Mal-Aimé” means in English? It means “Unloved.” A strange name for a perfume, isn’t it? But perfectly chosen, as the heart of Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé is mostly built around weeds that you can find on hillsides when you walk in Corsica. These are weeds that you would never touch, nor smell, but Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) treats them like olfactive treasures and pays tribute to unloved nature. Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé is a masterpiece in green. Powerfully green on your skin, then your soul. Absolutely green.

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato quote of Parfums D’Empire Mal-Aimé – edited by Emmanuelle Varron.

Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé centers around Inula as a key ingredient. It is a common raw material in aromatherapy (mainly to relieve pulmonary problems), but never seen in perfumery, because finding the right balance requires a lot of precision. You find it everywhere in Corsica, along stony paths, blooming under the hot Mediterranean sun. On the skin, its grassy side is what you catch first, powerful and bewitching. Then comes Galbazine (a molecule you also find in Naomi Goodsir’s magnificent Nuit de Bakélite) to evoke thistle and brambles, spicing up the greenness. This duo  is taken to an even greater dimension thanks to nettle absolute, full of earthy and smoky notes that warm up the skin. But inula remains at the center of the fragrance. Over time, it develops honeyed, musky and salty aspects, like a nod to Acqua di Scandola, the brand’s previous opus. This trip to Corsica also showcases the flowery facet of Inula, which hints at rose. This is M. Corticchiato’s masterpiece: he gives Mal-Aimé a flowery heart painted in multiple tones of green, thanks to an iris butter of extraordinary quality. Weeds in a setting of precious flowers – unexpected and genius.

what is Inula

Inula Graveolens- via Wikipedia

Mal-Aimé is a rooted fragrance. Rooted in its composition, in which plants, flowers and weeds coexist. Rooted in its soul since the Corsican spirit is omnipresent in this perfume. Rooted, as Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé doesn’t give itself easily. It revealed itself the first time I tried it (I understood right away that it was masterpiece). But the following days, my skin was silent, and Mal-Aimé was silent on my skin. I decided to “pause” and try it again. Sometimes you need to step back from a painting and not examine every brushstroke. Then it reappeared in all its magnificence.

Mal Aimé by Parfum d'Empire

Mal Aimé photo by Parfum d’Empire

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato always creates from his heart, nurtured by his  love for nature and for his native Corsica. He is both a perfumer and a scientist, passionate about scent production and a raw materials expert. Tenderly, he dedicated Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé (and its iconoclastic formula) to his dear friend Lucien Acquarone who passed away last year, an engineer specializing in botanical extraction equipment who loved inula. Lucien has gone too soon, but to honor him, his sons Alexandre and Stéphane distilled the essence used by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. A tribute to a loved one.

Notes: Corsican wild organic inula, nettle absolute, bramble, thistle, iris roots.

Disclaimer: Many thanks to Parfum d’Empire for the 12 ml Mal-Aimé bottle provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Contributor

Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé

 

Mal-Aimé 12ml bottle collage by Emmanuelle Varron

Thanks to the generosity of Parfum d’Empire, we have a 12 ml bottle to win for one registered reader worldwide (Mal-Aimé has not been launched widely at this time). To be eligible, please leave a comment on what you enjoyed about Emmanuelle’s review, where you live and if you are familiar with Parfum d’Empire fragrances. Draw closes 04/8/2021.

Available in April at Parfum d’Empire, Jovoy and Luckysent

You can read Michelyn’s interview with Marc-Antoine Corticchiato here

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51 comments

  • NARA Hodgson says:

    This is such an interesting article, I have never heard of inula! I have not tried Parfums D’Empire and am in USA

  • jojosi3 says:

    Hi & thank you from Canada!
    I am not familiar with Parfum d’Empire fragrances at all, so it was nice to come across this review and discover this fragrance house. I love the name of the perfume! What I appreciated from Emanuelle’s review was the description of how the hillside weeds can be cherished 🙂

  • chrisskins says:

    Everything about this sounds perfect. The name, the look, the passion of the perfumer and the sons of a beloved dad who distilled the inula in his honor. I have a hard time with made-up perfume backstories, especially when the truth can be so much better. I live in NY.

  • Fernando says:

    Corticchiato has acsure hand. I’m glad to hear that he has tried his hand at a green perfume, a style I really like.

  • ALally72 says:

    This review actually allowed me to sense the perfume, which is amazing. Green is my favorite color and my favorite smell – all shades of green. I also sensed some sadness from this perfume (“unloved”) but sadness has it’s own beauty. Overall, it seems perfect for Spring in the Northeast US, where I live (specifically, New Hampshire – a very green state :)). Thank you for offering this wonderful scent.

  • GennyLeigh says:

    Thank you Emmanuelle! That was a fascinating read and an amazing concept for a perfume. I’ve walked through plenty of fields and meadows and reveled in the scents I was smelling but only saw weeds when I looked around. Inula is new to me and I would like to experience it. The backstory regarding Lucien Acquarone and his sons is touching. The name Mal-Aime seems fitting but I’m prepared to give it some love. I’ve not tried any Parfum d’Empire fragrances. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • KMBfragrance says:

    I love the idea of using an unappreciated weed and turning it into a beautiful fragrance. I haven’t had any experience with P’arfum d’Empire. I live in Missouri USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    This is exciting! A green walk through Corsica sounds amazing. The galbazine molecule interests me as I love and own Nuit de Bakelit. I recently have falling in love with green fragrances, feels like rebirth after this horribly long covid experience. I am not familiar with this inula note, I’d love to smell what was so fascinating to Lucien. I love Corsica Furiosa and there is an orange one (the name escapes me now) that I love from this line. I’ve always thought this line deserves more attention. Thanks for this nice read Emmanuelle! USA.

  • ll grhm says:

    I love Parfum d’Empire and own several of their perfumes. I am very intrigued by the nettle note. Ive been harvesting nettles this spring and always love the smell, its such a clean scent. I live in the US, thanks for the draw.

  • JH says:

    I love PdE and MAC always makes interesting perfumes. All of his creations are worth checking out, even when some aren’t to my taste they are beautiful. I have several of them and the number is still growing! Cuir Ottoman is my favourite.
    As for Mal-Aimé, I love the name and the homage to a dear friend is such a touching move. I love green perfumes and I’m definitely going to check this out.
    Thanks for the draw. I live in Beijing.

  • Princess Anna says:

    Simply mesmerizing, from the name so inspired, to the notes, so special and unseen before all together. Although the name sounds sad, the notes inspire optimism, hope, revival. I would love to try this. I’m currently in Romania.

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Marc-Antoine Corticchiato always creates from his heart, nurtured by his love for nature and for his native Corsica. He is both a perfumer and a scientist, passionate about scent production and a raw materials expert. Tenderly, he dedicated Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé (and its iconoclastic formula) to his dear friend Lucien Acquarone who passed away last year, an engineer specializing in botanical extraction equipment who loved inula. Lucien has gone too soon, but to honor him, his sons Alexandre and Stéphane distilled the essence used by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. A tribute to a loved one.

    Notes: Corsican wild organic inula, nettle absolute, bramble, thistle, iris roots. A beautiful description by Emmanuel I am intrigued by the notes especially inula and iris roots. My favourite from this house is Cuir ottoman
    Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé centers around Inula as a key ingredient. It is a common raw material in aromatherapy (mainly to relieve pulmonary problems), but never seen in perfumery, because finding the right balance requires a lot of precision. You find it everywhere in Corsica, along stony paths, blooming under the hot Mediterranean sun. On the skin, its grassy side is what you catch first, powerful and bewitching. Then comes Galbazine (a molecule you also find in Naomi Goodsir’s magnificent Nuit de Bakélite) to evoke thistle and brambles, spicing up the greenness. This duo is taken to an even greater dimension thanks to nettle absolute, full of earthy and smoky notes that warm up the skin. But inula remains at the center of the fragrance. Over time, it develops honeyed, musky and salty aspects, like a nod to Acqua di Scandola, the brand’s previous opus. This trip to Corsica also showcases the flowery facet of Inula, which hints at rose. This is M. Corticchiato’s masterpiece: he gives Mal-Aimé a flowery heart painted in multiple tones of green, thanks to an iris butter of extraordinary quality. Weeds in a setting of precious flowers – unexpected and genius. A beautiful description by Emmanuel has got me fascinated with the note of inula and iris roots in particular. A house that I am not familiar with I am afraid Thanks a lot from the UK

  • HugoMontez says:

    I really liked the Emmanuelle’s review, specially the rooty, herbal aspects of it that she describes. I also love this house. Starting with Ambre Russe, Le Cri, Azemour les Orangers… They’re all great! I’m looking to try this one! Seems perfect!

  • HugoMontez says:

    I really liked the Emmanuelle’s review, specially the rooty, herbal aspects of it that she describes. I also love this house. Starting with Ambre Russe, Le Cri, Azemour les Orangers… They’re all great! I’m looking to try this one! Seems perfect!

    Sorry, I forgot. I’m from Portugal.

  • constancesuze says:

    I assume it’s the coming of spring in the Northern hemisphere, but I’ve been thinking a lot about green perfumes recently. I generally enjoy Parfum d’Empire’s launches, so I’m excited to try this. And as an amateur forager, I love the idea of using under-appreciated ‘weed’ notes.

  • Sonbahia says:

    Thanks to Emmanuelle for bringing this perfume, this house to us. A year ago my sister started to foraging weeds to cure or heal (inulina for my niece´s lung problems) or even eat (nettle)… what we call it in Spain “malas hierbas” (mauveises herbes).. among her preferred is nettle and inulina that noone takes it. I didn´y know they had a use in perfumery. So I am very interested to smell Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (and give a try to my sis) rooted fragance, and feel the joy my sister finds when she finds an unspoiled fiel of nettle and inulina. I am not familiar with Parfum d’Empire fragrances, but i am interested in the Sg. Corticchiato work that I would look for this perfumes in Spain. As I´ve just said, I live in Madrid, EU.

  • Cynthia says:

    It is so interesting that the perfumer used weeds to create this composition. And I found it interesting that the writer had different experiences on her skin with the perfume. I have experienced that also: some days something smells good and other days, nothing!

  • Niinocka says:

    I have been on the hunt for green scents lately, so I was very happy to learn more about a new greeny on the market. According to Emmanuelle’s review, not any greeny, but an unmatched masterpiece in the realm of green fragrances.

    I was intrigued by learning about locally sourced ingredients from the beautiful French island, especially the plant named Inula. The concept of putting unknown local weed in the spotlight and the fact that Mal-Aimé is dedicated to a dear friend, who had loved a key ingredient – inula, added additional charm and meaning to the fragrance.
    When reading the review, I reminisced about helping my grandmother on the piece of land that was supposed to become a garden and being overwhelmed by the smell of weed we were removing. I do not have a great olfactory memory, but the scents, I usually can recall, are from nature and my childhood.

    Since I was not familiar with the house of Parfum d’Empire, I appreciated learning about it.
    Thanks for a great review and a generous draw. I reside in the EU.

  • DuftHochZwei says:

    I found myself rooted on Corsica a few years back, really inspiring vacation. So Mal-Aimé speaks to me! I wonder how this compares to the also very green Corsica Furiosa from the same nose and house. I’d love to win this to Germany, thanks for the draw!

  • AlenaK says:

    I enjoyed the thought experiments around the concept of intense green weeds unloved by mankind but immensely relied upon by its ecosystem. Unloved, unloved, but what is love or unloved without the species that coin the term? Nothing needs human approval of their existence — nature predates us and will continue to exist after mankind pass. As I campaign for nature, I love how the name and its tale sparks the green fire in my mind. (And with discovery of my intense love for intensely bitter green fragrance, it only fuels the fire!)

    Back to the review — I enjoyed the different angles of ‘unloved’ green weeds — grass in the fields, bitter herbs, the soil, smoky scents of – hm, branches? wild fire? – and bushes along the seaside. Multiple occasions to meet the unloved greens, united in a bottle.

    Also I’m particularly thankful for the comment on stepping back — that seems to happen to many fragrances I tried. Now I know what to try (by not trying!)

    I’m based in Thailand, and unfortunately I haven’t had the chance to make acquaintance with Parfum d’Empire fragrances — yet!

  • Nancysg says:

    I am a fan of Parfum d Empire. Starting with Equistrius and recently purchased Tabac Tabou. The rush of green sounds wonderful and am so intrigued by the weed notes. Weeds are unappreciated flowers, are they not? I live in the US.

  • Ben A says:

    I love green scents, but have never smelled inula (to the best of my knowledge). That, above all, intrigued me about this review and this scent. I’m in Oklahoma, USA. Thanks, as always, for the draw!

  • Dami C says:

    I enjoyed reading about Marc-Antoine Corticchiato‘s experience both as a scientist and raw materials expert, as well as the unique notes in the fragrance. As a green fragrance lover, I find this to be intriguing and the Corsica inspiration is interesting. I tried Aziyade from this line and I was impressed with it. I am in the USA.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    In this review, I loved hearing the context behind the ingredients (the unloved) in this scent. What an interesting concept from a favorite nose of mine! I love many scents from this line, especially Cuir Ottoman, Corsica Furiosa (his treatment of greens in that excites me for this), Fougere Bengale, and quite a few others actually! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • insp says:

    As ever, it is excellent to read that ‘extra bit’ of information here not mentioned anywhere else that early – namely the function of the galbanum-green Galbazine. This, supporting a bespoke extraction of an ‘Unkraut’, appears both compelling and timely for these days, and so Parfum d’Empire! I enjoyed a bottle of Corticchiato’s Fougere Bengale many years ago, with its very own shrub-like rendering of other botanical landscapes. Living on an island myself – Madeira. Portuguese but on the same height as Marakesh (also as remote as possible from any location to test Parfum d’Empire, unfortunately), I am conscious of the biodiversity an island can offer and the olfactory potential some of these weeds might have. This new release sounds brilliant!

  • drjedi says:

    Liked the clear description of Mal-Aimé by Emmanuelle. It is a very informative review, and it was interesting to learn about inula, and another aspect of perfumery as an art form. In art, one expresses oneself, one’s emotions, and also art evokes emotions from others. In this sense, art in general and perfumery in particular, doesn’t have to be pretty, or appealing, all the time. As I myself appreciate the value, and beauty, of so-called weeds, I enjoyed reading about this broader idea of art being applied to perfumery. It certainly broadens one’s horizons. I am very curious as to how Mal-Aimé smells, and what feelings and emotions it evokes. Thanks Emmanuelle for an interesting review. Writing from the USA.

  • Lindsay says:

    I loved this review because it made my brain work hard to remember the smell of nettles and brambles in the summer sun. I love green fragrances that have warmth to them. I don’t know about Parfum D’Empire fragrances, but I’m intrigued by this unconventional use of inula, especially because of its medicinal uses. I’m in Oregon. Thank you!

  • mronhubbard says:

    The idea of a perfume whose main theme is “weeds” is enchanting. Also, Emmanelle’s discussion of the perfume being “silent” upon trying it for the second time was interesting. There’s always more to learn from the fragrance experts on here! I haven’t tried anything from Parfum d’Empire before. (USA)

  • Salem says:

    This green, unique perfume made from “plants that no one loves” sounds absolutely spectacular and it is a very touching metaphor. I am sure the fragrance is beautiful, even though the elements its notes derived from are conventionally “ugly”. It demonstrates that one needs to work with what they have and they can make a masterpiece out of scratch.
    I am in Europe and would love to try this, as my first experience from this house.

  • Claumarchini says:

    Thank you so very much for this review, very interesting indeed to know about the usage of inula in perfumery! I love green fragrances and it is so nice that Mr. Corticchiato wanted to celebrate his native Corsica: a place I would really like to visit, for its sauvage and fierce beauty. I particularly love green fragrances so it would be such a treat to be the lucky winner, also because I am not familiar with Parfum d’Empire. Greetings from Italy

  • Amy L. says:

    I respect Parfum d’Empire so much bc of the beautiful blends and natural inspiration, but the name initially put me off. After all, my name means “Loved,” and like a perfume nerd, I overly identity with my fragrances. But reading your review..how this untamed weed is just as difficult to master in s therapeutic way as iris is in an olfactory way, how inula is disguised in plain sight by its unpretentious appearance but still simply beautiful, the irony of something that is ignored/unloved being beneficial, the tribute to honor Lucien (celebrating life wherever we find it because the treasure of life is in the simplest joys)..it made me very teary, and I would love to try this “unloved” green scent Mal-Aime. I am in CA.

  • Dilana says:

    The first paragraph really grabbed me, opening with the description of the scent as being of “unloved” plants and concluding that it is nevertheless a ‘masterpiece of green.”

    The final paragraph moved me with its dedication to a friend.

    I live in the USA.

  • Cass says:

    A green scent using novel and seldom used ingredients? That is an auto sample. I am unfamiliar with Parfum d’Empire as yet. Thanks so much for the entry. I am in Canada.

  • gianluca says:

    I’ve heard a lot about Corticchiato and Parfum d’Empire but haven’t really tried his works. Green is the definite trend now. Happy to see one created around an aromatherapy plant for pulmonary problems too.

    Live in the US.

  • MilesofM says:

    I appreciated the imagery of the review, and I am very interested in this perfume now. I live in Canada, where it’s a little difficult to get Parfums d’Empire fragrances, but I have tried some and particularly like Azemour de L’Orangers

  • wandering_nose says:

    Ah what a lovely and enticing review by Emmanuelle! She managed to show how close Mal-Aimé is to the ‘unloved’ side of the botanical world. This itself makes the creation absolutely amazing and worth pursuing. I also love the sentimental part of the story – it is a genuis concept to honour a person who truly loved the plant and note which the perfume is composed around. Myself, I have always had warm feelings towards inula and thistle, and I love iris. I haven’t had the chance to become familiar with Parfums d’Empore fragrances as of yet. Based in the Republic of Ireland, EU

  • Julesinrose says:

    The entirety of this fragrance from conception to execution is beautiful. I haven’t smelled it, but I would love to. What a tribute to a friend. And to the unloved weeds. I am a fan of this house, in particular Ambre Russe (one of my all time favorite scents), Wazamba, and Tabac Tabou. In Maine, USA

  • Paeonnia says:

    A great concept for the perfume. From the opening photo it mase me think of the holiday in Corsica a few years ago, the smells, thhe views, the feelings. I was looking for a ‘Mediterranean island’ perfume for a long time. By the sound of it, this one might be it!
    I’m in Eu

  • Princess Anna says:

    One of my criteria in choosing a fragrance is the name, and Mal-aime is so poetic, romantic and leaves so many to one’s imagination. My fragrances are all so deeply loved. I am currently in Romania.

  • mleenstra says:

    I absolutely love the sentiment and determination of this fragrance. It is so admirable to search for those ingredients little used in perfumery and give them center stage. I love the green spicy scent of herbs and undergrowth and the absence of sweetness that is omni present in the world of fragrance and cosmetics nowadays, so will definitely look out for Mal-Aimé by Parfum d’Empire up. Beautiful review by Emmanuelle and great recommendation. Marit UK

  • wallygator88 says:

    What a beautiful fragrance. I’ve read about fragrances using green elements, but to use various weeds, in conjunction with other notes to create art from weeds, is just ingenious.

    I am not familiar with this house.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Brian says:

    I appreciated many things about Emmanuelle’s review, e.g. learning about the use of certain weeds in perfumery (like inula), learning more about Galbazine, learning about perfumer, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, and discovering this fragrance. I’m very interested to try it; I hope that I win. I’ve never heard of this fragrance house before having read this review. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • Tobacco11 says:

    A fascinating article highlighting a more daring style of fragrance that is rarely seen today.
    I enjoy many of Haeckels offerings, some of which are like lying beside a grassy field in a tall patch of weeds with your nose pressed against the intensely aromatic stems-surreal.
    I love this style of green aromatic scents and would be pleased to try this new offering.
    I’m in Canada.

  • macaroni023 says:

    I am not familiar with Parfum d’Empire nor with the Inula ingredient. This perfume sounds unique and like a very botanical blend. I would be really interested to try it, because it is really hard to image how it smells. I am a big fan of a botanical smells, and it is especially nice to wear them in spring time.

  • Nina says:

    I enjoyed the review because it seems so lovely to dedicate a fragrance to honor them in their passing. I have never heard of Parfun D’ Empire. Namaste from Texas

  • CristinaM says:

    The review is emotional, deep, both descriptive and suggestive. I really could imagine smelling all the greenery and was transported to a magical land with the evoking sound of the words. Thank you!

    I am based in Northern Italy and love Ms. Corticchiato’s work. He is truly a master and an artist. I am the proud owner of Ambre Russe and have tested several creation. It would be great to win!

  • Michael Prince says:

    Emmanuelle nice review of Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé. A unique and masterfully blended green fragrance of unique plants and weeds from Corsica. The perfumer used all raw and natural materials. I haven’t heard of or tried anything from Parfum d’Empire. I am from the USA.