I am coming to appreciate how much harder it is for a perfumer to have depth and contour when only using a very few notes, The Exclusive Collection is an example of what the skill of a Maitre Parfumeur, like Maria candida Gentile, can do with just a few notes.
Perfume appreciation however, requires more than just the casual spritz. Selecting a fragrance can be as sophisticated as evaluating a wine, if approached in a knowledgeable manner. Contrary to the concept of the “signature scent”, our noses prefer variety.
In the last seven years, Tom Ford Beauty has steadily evolved from FiFi-winning fragrances to a major global luxury brand, with estimated retail sales of $200 million worldwide. Five new fragrances launch for Fall.
I like a perfumer who brings raw materials to the table…. literally. Ineke Ruhland is this kind of perfumer. Names of synthetic and natural raw materials roll off her tongue in the most self-assured, yet generous way. Ineke shared her two newest fragrances Sweet William for Anthropologie and Hothouse Flower with me.
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) is a clove-scented, fringed flower that is bicolored in white/pink/red tones. It recently received attention when Kate Middleton included it in her bridal bouquet, presumably for both the lovely scent and the name
When our best niche perfumers take out the vanilla and think to use it as the focal point for one of their creations these vanilla fragrances become explorations into the possibilities of turning the pedestrian into something less so. Martine Micallef is one of these perfumers and her new set of four releases, for her Parfums M. Micallef label, called the Art Collection Vanille is the proof.
