In the Dog Days of August before the first new fall releases begin to arrive I think most perfumistas go through a momentary bout of despair. Then like magic the new fall releases begin to arrive and our fascination with fragrance is re-kindled. In a fall of some excellent releases already, Boxeuses was the spark that set my perfumed desire blazing again.
Tabac Blond- created in 1919 by the brilliant Ernest Daltroff [founder of, and master perfumer for the House of Caron]-
Is as fresh, edgy, and glorious as it was when it was first introduced.
As racy, devil-may-care, throw-all- caution –to-the winds.
The first thing you notice about this man, unarguably one of the world’s greatest contemporary perfumers, is his composure, his unpretentious manner and individualism no matter his surroundings. I have called Bertrand the ‘Rockstar’ of Perfumery on several occasions; I amend that statement… he is the fragrance world’s most intrepid explorer, always his own man, requiring no entourage, flattery or handlers as he pushes the boundaries of 21st century perfumery. And he has a future in television!
Les Nombres d’Or translates to the “Golden Ratio” and whatever one might think of Mme. di Orio’s fragrances catering to the lowest common denominator is not an apt description. For Les Nombres d’Or she chose to explore what I would characterize as three very masculine notes; Ambre, Cuir (Leather), and Musc and create three singular fragrances featuring that note at its axis.
Memoir Woman is an opulent creature.
She is so lavish in texture and weight, like the richest patisserie- that one might require a digestif after experiencing her abundance.
The conclusion to Ca Fleure Bon’s three part series on Pierre Guillaume’s new Huitieme Art Parfums fragrances as I review the remaining four; Ambre Ceruleen, Naiviris, Fareb, and Sucre d’Ebene.
