Inspired by Voltaire’s iconic satiric novella Candide written in 1759,
Mandy Aftel desired to create a perfume of optimism, an uplifting fragrance wedding innocence and sensuality.
Whereas the novella rakes Leibnizian blind faith over the coals, Mandy focuses on the
olfactory equivalent of ever-present buoyancy instead.
Tabac Blond- created in 1919 by the brilliant Ernest Daltroff [founder of, and master perfumer for the House of Caron]-
Is as fresh, edgy, and glorious as it was when it was first introduced.
As racy, devil-may-care, throw-all- caution –to-the winds.
The first thing you notice about this man, unarguably one of the world’s greatest contemporary perfumers, is his composure, his unpretentious manner and individualism no matter his surroundings. I have called Bertrand the ‘Rockstar’ of Perfumery on several occasions; I amend that statement… he is the fragrance world’s most intrepid explorer, always his own man, requiring no entourage, flattery or handlers as he pushes the boundaries of 21st century perfumery. And he has a future in television!
Les Nombres d’Or translates to the “Golden Ratio” and whatever one might think of Mme. di Orio’s fragrances catering to the lowest common denominator is not an apt description. For Les Nombres d’Or she chose to explore what I would characterize as three very masculine notes; Ambre, Cuir (Leather), and Musc and create three singular fragrances featuring that note at its axis.
These last few months have seen Ambrox, the aromachemical, getting a workout. Like the many headed hydra it seems to be showing up everywhere. I received the press releases for the two new Le Labo fragrances and there it was right at the top of both note lists; Ambrox. Upon reading further I learned that AnOther 13 was a fragrance built around Ambrox at the core. Baie Rose 26 uses Ambox as it has been used most commonly as a base note in combination with musk. These two fragrances are a good case study in how Ambrox is being used and gave me an opportunity to delve into the differences.
The conclusion to Ca Fleure Bon’s three part series on Pierre Guillaume’s new Huitieme Art Parfums fragrances as I review the remaining four; Ambre Ceruleen, Naiviris, Fareb, and Sucre d’Ebene.
