Ida, President of the Osmothèque Thomas Fontaine and Emmanuelle photo by Bernhard© June 13, 2022

It is not every day that one is afforded the opportunity to visit a Holy Grail destination: wishing and hoping alone doesn’t make it so. It had been three years since the last season of Esxence and 24 years since the last time my husband and I were in Europe together for pleasure. This year we had decided to harness and incorporate several objectives: a brief visit to Dutch friends and utilizing our youngest’s Paris sabbatical as an excuse to visit that lovely city prior to attending Esxence in Milan. I had longed to visit the Osmothèque in Versailles for many years: I had emailed them several times in advance, had our Jacob email, telephone and join the Osmothèque community – but it was the final gentle nudge from Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen that assured myself, my son, husband, and ÇaFleureBon Senior Editor Emmanuelle Varron (whom I had contacted and invited to join us prior to travel) a tour with President Thomas Fontaine and Delegated Directrice Anne-Cécile Pouant. I am deeply indebted to them for their precious time, energy and enthusiasm which has colored this aromatic adventure in glowing hues.

 

Osmothèque building photo by Bernhard©

The Osmothèque is safely tucked away on a side street in Versailles; you have to want to seek it out, because it resembles a charming, unassuming campus which does not draw attention to itself – unlike Harvard, Princeton, Oxford, Cambridge or any other number of imposing institutions of higher education. We arrived by train, bus and on foot to our destination rather early and tiptoed around the grounds – reading every bit of available signage and information without appearing obtrusive. As you may be aware, the ISIPCA (Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire), founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in 1970 continues to train perfumers – so it is an active, functioning community unto itself. We certainly didn’t wish to cause any disruption.

 

Main desk at The Osmothèque photo @emmanuelle

Senior Editor Lauryn Beer has already given a brilliant account of her visit in 2018: I add my voice to hers (I urge you to read her column, as it is illuminating). Our visit to the Osmothèque could not have been scheduled at a more stressful or inconvenient time for them – as they were in the process of packing up within hours to travel to Milan. The fact that Monsieur Fontaine and Mme. Pouant shared a full two hours with us demonstrated genuine generosity.

 

Anne-Cécile Pouant, Thomas Fontaine, Emmanuelle and Jacob photo by Bernhard©

Mme. Pouant related the goals of the Osmothèque as threefold: 1) the preservation of fragrances and formulae; 2) education (bridging the profession and public); and 3) research (working with scientific committees). Their desire is to eventually have a larger, more expansive presence in Paris, as current space is so limited despite all efforts. “An old lady with a young heart”, is how this institution was described. The Osmothèque is a non-profit organization, and donations are welcome. There is even an “adopt a perfume” program for those who wish to contribute. The relationship between memory and perfume continues to be a constant source of interest/concern. In spite of its importance, both olfactory and historical – there is no doubt that the public would benefit from a greater knowledge/appreciation/ contribution – so that it may continue to provide a wellspring of information and edification for years to come.

 

photo by Emmanuelle©

It is surprising how unpretentious and modest the actual museum is, considering that 5,000 perfumes are cautiously stored (including over 800 fragrances which are no longer available) on the premises. Additionally, if any fragrances are not in a reasonable condition, they are removed from the collection – and requests are made to those in the know to provide a more pristine specimen.  To this end, we were privy to the sampling of multiple perfumes – each administered carefully by Mme. Pouant as she delved into the labeled amber flacons with mouillettes in order to preserve the jus’ integrity.

 

Vintage 897 Rochas Byzance photo by Emmanuelle

Some of the olfactory offerings Monsieur Fontaine treated us to include a flawless 1921 Coty Emeraude, which still smells breathtaking 1 ½ weeks later; Zibeline de Weil (Claude Fraysse) from 1928; Mme. Cellier’s brilliantly butch 1944 Bandit and Grès 1959 Cabochard, along with 1911 Caron Narcisse Noir (enivrant!!!). Emmanuelle was eager to revisit her beloved Rochas Byzance (1987), being the Tuberose Queen. I confess to requesting the original Houbigant Fougère Royale by Paul Parquet, from 1882 (pure bliss!), Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain (1853 and fresh as a daisy; the first fragrance I gave my husband-to-be), 1947 original Fath Iris Gris (Vincent Roubert), Caron 1919 Tabac Blond (Ernest Daltroff) and Dior Diorling (1963, Paul Vacher), and 1926 Djedi (Jacques Guerlain). I have each of these perfumes which are relatively well-preserved, but nothing prepares your nose for the scintillating immediacy of these presentations. We each experienced an advanced degree of ecstasy: that moment when your eyes roll back in delight (otherwise referred to as sanpaku).

 

Musk Pods photo by B©

One particularly marvelous moment was when Monsieur Fontaine showed us musk pods and an immense lump of ambergris! Stroking them was a wonder (and smelling your fingers afterwards). Perhaps a little-known fact (to me, at any rate): Monsieur Fontaine possesses a significantly beautiful baritone. He sang me the first few lines of Papageno’s “Der Vogelfänger, bin ich ja” from The Magic Flute, much to my delight (when I revealed that I always wanted to be Leoporello). Both Mme. Pouant and Monsieur Fontaine were gracious and candid with our little troupe, creating a memory at once olfactory, visual and auditory which will remain gratefully engraved upon my spirit indefinitely…

Emmanuelle, Bernhard, Jacob and I wish to heartily thank everyone for making this unforgettable occasion a reality!

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Expanding on the Adopt a Perfume and membership

The Osmothèque is located 36 Rue du Parc de Clagny, 78000 Versailles, France.  Becoming a member of the Societé des Amis de l’Osmothèque (SAO) helps maintain the center’s essential work while offering a number of perks, such as discounted sessions, cultural outings and free entrance to SAO talks. Supporting Osmothèque is more than simply a charitable There is a new way to become involved… adopt a perfume! Become a member and the  sponsor perfume(s) from their collections to which you wish a patron.  What sparks your interest about Ida’s article? What rare perfume treasure at the Osmothèque would you love to own, adopt or do you already own. What modern era perfumes would you like to see stored at the Osmothèque? (I would love Parfums DelRae by Michel Roudnitska and Yann Vasnier)-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

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