Ormonde Jayne Tiare digital effects Edward Hughes Midsummer Eve via Wikipedia

 

Im wunderschönen Monat Mai,

Als alle Knospen sprangen,

Da ist in meinem Herzen

Die Liebe aufgegangen.

Im wunderschönen Monat Mai,

Als alle Vögel sangen,

Da hab ich ihr gestanden

Mein Sehnen und Verlangen.

 In the incredibly lovely month of May

When all the buds were bursting open

Love arose in my heart.

In the incredibly lovely month of May

When all the birds were singing

I confessed to her

My craving and desire. ~ Heinrich Heine (my translation)

Linda Pilkington with some of her creations at Saks Fifth Avenue, New York, November 2018 for the launch of Prive. photo beautyconcierge_nyc for CaFleurebon

Creative Director and perfumer Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne has maintained her pristine reputation for almost two decades because she is uncompromising when it comes to quality. From the conception of Ormonde Jayne, she has insisted upon only the best: elegant boutiques, prestigious addresses and luxury purveyors, the finest and rarest materials, elegant, heavy classical distinguished flacons. The ensuing result has been over 40 beautiful fragrances which appeal to every possible taste. If one cannot find a perfume to suit – well. You’ve not been looking, have you?

Ormonde Jayne London Boutique on Bond Street @ormondejayne

I have purchased several of their fragrances over the years; today I’m reviewing 2009’s Ormonde Jayne Tiare, a crisp chypre of incomparable elegance. Chypres were my first love, and I’d still likely choose a chypre over most any other genre if push came to shove. Tiare shares the lineage of verdant aldehydic floral chypres with other noteworthy fragrances in noble tradition; it manages to feel contemporary while possessing a very classical bone structure. I love that there is a sense of movement in it; what commences as a scintillating floral kissed with citrus and limpid floral tones wends its path to a more sylvan retreat, duskily appealing and mysterious.

The Grass of Parnassus, Edward Hughes Midsummer Eve via Wikipedia

 Ormonde Jayne Tiare smells of Eternal May to me. The pining poet of Robert Schumann’s song cycle Dichterliebe (A Poet’s Love), penned by the great Heinrich Heine – speaks eloquently of Spring’s beauty and his heart filled with desire and longing – which he confesses to the beloved. Tiare opens with a burst of unbridled enthusiasm: aldehydes lift and float mandarin and lime on the breeze as orange blossom, Tahitian gardenia (that’s what tiare is!) and the coolly floral, crystalline quality of freesia and water lily accompany them. Other blossoms dovetail seamlessly – jasmine and ylang ylang for sultriness, the silvery orris as counterpoint. Blooms carried upon a zephyr soon congregate in the woods, commingling with cedar and sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli and moss of the forest floor – and it is here where the lovers recline in secret, sequestered from prying eyes. One’s initial impression is that of innocence, but the depth of feeling inferred by the voluptuous richness in Tiare’s base notes murmurs otherwise; a suave musk of intention contributes its own discreet nuance. The perfume’s refined nature assures that all this youthful ardor is expressed sotto voce; it is undeniable in spite of the masterful finesse with which emotions are rendered.

A kinship exists between Chanel Cristalle eau de parfum (Jacques Polge, 1993), Estée Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (also released in 2009) and Tiare – and you will likely see comparisons noted. Speaking from the viewpoint of one who owns, wears and enjoys all three fragrances, I can attest to both similarities and differences. Tiare holds the crown for being the most floral and evolved: it isn’t linear, nor does it culminate in a variant of powder. Fond as I am of the others, Ormonde Jayne Tiare claims pride of place for its complexity, degree of sophistication and ability to unfold itself like so many petals – revealing an enigmatic profundity.

Notes: aldehydes (not listed, but sensed), mandarin, Sicilian lime, orange flower, tiare, freesia, water lily, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, cedar vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss, musk

 

Thanks to the generosity of  Europerfumes (the USA Distributor) of Ormonde Jayne London we have a draw for a 50ml flacon of Tiare by Ormonde Jayne for one registered reader in the USA ONLY. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review of Ormonde Jayne Tiare, and if you have tried a Ormonde Jayne fragrance before and which is your favorite. Draw closes 8/25/2021

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