Notes From the Lab: Natural Perfumes and Chemicals + On The Nose Perfumes Thorny Rose Giveaway

natural rose materials

Natural rose materials mouillettes for this article on natural perfumes and chemicals by Gabrielle

As a natural perfumer, I’m used to fielding questions about ingredients. One question, though, still stops me in my tracks: “Does this have any chemicals in it?”

At first, I assumed people meant synthetics. But more than once, I’ve realized they were asking if the perfume contained any chemicals at all. And that presents a great opportunity to clear the air.

Lab bottles for perfume

Lab glassware Rodolfo Clix, Pexels

Let’s go back to high school chemistry for a moment: everything in the physical world is made of chemicals. Water is a chemical. Vitamin C is a chemical. Rose oil? Also a chemical; just a very complex one made by nature. So, when we talk about “chemical-free” perfumes, what we really mean is “free of synthetic chemicals.” But even the most pristine, organically sourced, artisanal natural perfume is made entirely of chemicals – just ones that were created by a flower, a tree, or a resin-producing shrub rather than a lab technician.

Lab tech with Erlenmeyer flask, Yaroslav Shuraev, Pexels

Here’s the real distinction:

Synthetic fragrance materials are built in a lab, often starting from petrochemical feedstocks. Chemists isolate, combine, and rearrange molecules to mimic the scent of natural substances, or to create entirely new ones.

Botanical fragrance materials in natural perfumes are extracted from botanical sources. The process may involve steam, solvent, or CO₂ extraction, sometimes followed by molecular distillation, but the resulting materials are made up of naturally occurring chemicals produced by the plant itself.

So yes, natural perfumes are chemical, too, just from a different kind of source.

what are the best natural rose perfumes

Woman smelling roses, Andrea Piacquadio, Pexels

Let’s ground this in a practical example: the rose.

First, not all roses are chemically identical. Different varietals, such as Rosa damascena, Rosa centifolia (often called Rose de Mai), Rosa gallica, and Rosa alba, each contain their own unique aromatic signatures. These differences in genetic makeup translate into varying concentrations of key fragrance molecules.

And it doesn’t stop there. The chemical profile of a rose also depends on where and how it’s grown. Factors like soil composition, climate, altitude, and even the timing of the harvest influence the final scent of the flower. This is why the same rose varietal grown in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, or France can produce subtly different olfactory results. In perfumery terms, this is where terroir comes into play.

From these diverse roses, we can obtain natural extracts using several methods:

– Steam or hydro-distillation results in rose otto (an essential oil);

– Solvent extraction followed by an alcohol wash yields rose absolute;

– CO₂ extraction produces rose CO₂ extract.

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Model, Ben Mills & Jynto, Wikipedia

Each extraction method pulls different compounds in different proportions. For instance, rose otto is made with high heat and contains very little phenyl ethyl alcohol, which is one of the main components of fresh rose scent. This is because it’s too volatile and gets lost during the distillation process. Rose absolute, which avoids high temperatures, retains much more phenyl ethyl alcohol; it often smells deeper and more honeyed. Rose CO₂ extract typically falls somewhere in between.

Regardless of the varietal or extraction process, a single rose contains hundreds of naturally occurring aromatic compounds. Among the most prominent are phenyl ethyl alcohol, geraniol, citronellol, and nerol. But some of the most impactful molecules exist only in trace amounts. Beta-damascenone and other rose ketones, for example, are present in mere fractions of a percent, yet contribute immensely to the richness, depth, and that elusive “rosiness” we associate with the living flower.

evaluating perfume

Chic science, Cottonbro Studio, Pexels

In mixed-media perfumery, rose is often reconstructed using synthetics. A typical “rose base” or “accord” might include synthetic versions of phenyl ethyl alcohol, geraniol, citronellol, and nerol blended with a handful of other lab-made molecules to recreate the scent of a rose, or more specifically, the headspace around it.

Sometimes, a perfumer will add a touch of natural rose otto or absolute – not for its olfactory contribution, but for label appeal. The final result may smell incredibly rosy and sometimes even more so than the natural extracts themselves.

There’s no such thing as a chemical-free perfume. Every perfume, natural or otherwise, is made of chemicals. The question isn’t whether chemicals are present; it’s whether those chemicals were produced by nature or by a laboratory. Understanding this distinction helps demystify perfumery, especially for those who gravitate toward natural fragrance out of concern for what they’re putting on their bodies. It’s not about fear of chemicals; it’s about choosing the kind of chemistry you prefer.

In the end, perfume is both art and science. And like any good art form, it helps to understand the materials before you judge the work.

Gabrielle Durand,  Contributor and perfumer for On The Nose Perfumes

Gabrielle Durand is a CaFleureBon Notes From The Lab Co-Contributor

Read her Profile in American Perfumery here

PLEASE SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS AND BY DIRECTLY FROM THEIR SITE

All photos are owned by On The Nose Perfumes, unless otherwise stated.

On the Nose Thorny Issue

As a thank you for enjoying Gabrielle’s Notes from the Lab, Gabrielle is offering one 15 ml flacon On the Nose Thorny Issue for one registered reader in the continental USA. Please register here or your comment will not count. To be entered, in the comments section below, share what surprised you most about the chemistry of natural perfumes. Draw closes 5/18/2025.

Thorny Issue Notes: cypress absoluteblack hemlock absoluteviolet leaf absolute, raspberry leaf absolute, galbanum resinoidrose absolutes and ottosrose leaf absolutejasmine auriculatum. cool and warm spices, immortelle, tobaccoexotic woods, and handmade aged Madagascan vanillacivet, and hyraceum tinctures. 4 upcycled materials (rosecypresssandalwood by-absolutes and an upcycled rose otto).

Pease read Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor’s review of Thorny Rose and Honey Trap here, Senior Contributor Sandi Lundberg’s review of Solar Flair (winner to be announced soon).

PLEASE VISIT On the Nose Perfumes Online Shop AND SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS

Please like The Series on Facebook here and your comment will count twice.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @onthenoseperfumes

This is our Privacy Policy 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so “like” Cafleurebon and use our Blog FEED… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


19 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Loved this article. A lot of us are confused about what’s a synthetic versus a natural type of scent and this explains it to perfection. I wasn’t always a rose lover as a man, but with time and some great rose combos created over the years, rose scents are actually very good. And yes, not all roses are created equally and some prefer one type over others. I always say to experience the fragrance itself so then you can arrive to your own conclusions. I’m located in the USA.

  • I think what is so interesting are the many ways one can extract scents from a rose. Resulting it so many different scent components. Very interesting. In maryland.

  • I was surprised to learn about the impact of growing conditions, soil, climate, etc on the chemical make-up and scent of a rose. I had no idea that terroir played a role in perfumery! I was also interested to learn about some of the specifics of how the different extraction processes bring out different concentrations of the various chemical components that contribute to the scent of rose. I just wish I knew which compound(s) is/are implicated in the phenomenon that turns many rose fragrances into a bug-spray smell on my skin! Not all do, but enough that I am wary of rose fragrances for the most part. But I have never tried a rose fragrance made by a natural perfumery house, and am so curious to see if the rose scent created by botanical extraction might not cause that issue!

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    Wonderful composition and the nose behind it. I was also interested to learn about some of the specifics of how the different extraction processes bring out different concentrations of the various chemical components that contribute to the scent of rose. From PA,USA

  • Oh my! This sounds like a wonderful, mysterious rose! Gabrielle creates such unique and fantastic scents! I have to smell this one!
    Mary in Pennsylvania

  • teatreesoil says:

    what a fascinating glimpse into perfumery as a science! i vaguely remember my organic chemistry classes and labs back in college, especially the banana ester extraction lab exercise! so it was very cool to read about the different extraction methods and what they yield as a result, as well as what perfumers might do to recreate the scent of a rose in actual practice (presumably balancing fidelity/realism of scent, cost/availability of ingredients, marketability, and of course, actually achieving the intended scent profile) i was surprised that sometimes “real” natural extracts might be included mostly for the label rather than it being required to produce the scent, but in hindsight that makes a lot of sense given what i remember learning about artificial flavors from that long ago organic chemistry lab!

    thanks gabrielle for the writeup! is Notes From the Lab a new series? or is there a way i can find more of this series?

  • Great article!! There is so much fast and loose “science” floating around the U.S. and it’s confusing a lot of people. So I appreciate these types of clear and honest articles. I tend to go for all naturals/no synthetics because they have nuances I just dont get with the synthetics. Depth, changes in temperature or humidity, changes over time (yes I store in a cool dark closet) variations in the way the notes unfurl etc. Synthetics just dont have soul. I need a little life in my fragrances!
    I am definitely keen on trying this one. I am located in the U.S. thank you for the giveaway.

  • I used to think chemicals were only the artificial stuff — the harsh-smelling cleaners under the sink or the lab-made ingredients listed on food labels among the Kroger aisles. I hope this realization does not change the way I experience a scent as I pick up perfumery again as a hobby in middle age. I don’t want to lose the magic of nature — if anything, I hope I gain a new layer of awe. I guess time will tell with me.

  • What a well written and easy to understand explanation that as someone who isn’t familiar with natural perfumery was a great source of info.
    “Synthetic fragrance materials are built in a lab, often starting from petrochemical feedstocks. Chemists isolate, combine, and rearrange molecules to mimic the scent of natural substances, or to create entirely new ones.
    “Botanical fragrance materials in natural perfumes are extracted from botanical sources. The process may involve steam, solvent, or CO₂ extraction, sometimes followed by molecular distillation, but the resulting materials are made up of naturally occurring chemicals produced by the plant itself.” Its great Gabriele used upcycled materials in Thorny Rose.

    I do live in the USA

  • I really enjoyed learning how the different extraction methods retain chemicals in varying amounts and resulting in such large differences in the end result. Texas

  • Whenever I hear people complain about chemicals I always reply “Everything is made of chemicals!” I especially enjoyed reading about the effects of the different extraction processes and how great can effect the final product. I’m in the USA.

  • As a biochemist, I also explain to people that anything with a chemical formula like H2O (water) is a chemical. What’s interesting about natural materials versus synthetics is the difference in richness and complexity. Anyone who has tasted natural vanilla extract compared to artificial vanillin should easily recognize this. I love rose and found the discussion of different extraction methods fascinating and somewhat familiar. Looking forward to trying Thorny Issue. MD, USA

  • roxhas1cat says:

    Thanks for clearing up this natural vs synthetic issue. Interesting. This article is quite the science lesson which I will need to re-read as it’s a Friday night after a long week at work. Love the name of this fragrance, and those notes sound amazing. USA, WA state

  • Loved hearing about how rose materials are extracted and how they are “reproduced”. Thorney issue sounds great…rose, immortelle, tobaccos…with all the list it appears to be a very complex perfume. I love artifical and “natural” perfumery. Thank you for the discussion and break down of “chemicals”. I live in OH UsA

  • Excellent write-up demystifying natural perfumery, Gabrielle! The “Does it contain chemicals” thing has got to get quite frustrating to explain over and over. I’ve been a long time fan of natural perfumery so the thing that surprised me most was hearing that some mixed media perfumes are actually mostly synthetics with a touch of an expensive natural material like rose otto for “label appeal.” I think I’ll stick with the complexity of the real thing!
    Best wishes from NJ!

  • I loved reading about the diff extractions methods used to obtain a rose scent from anywhere in the world. I remember doing extractions indy chemistry lab and I’d always fasinating to see the application of it in the most fun way. I never knew neroli geranol and citrenoll were part of a rose.

  • Thank you for the thoughtful breakdown of synthetic and natural materials in perfumery. This kind of information is particularly useful for folks new to the hobby and using the iconic rose as a practical example makes perfect sense. Most interesting was your discussion of mixed-media perfumery; many of my favorite fragrances use a combination of materials, but now I have a better understanding of what that means in execution.

    I’m in the USA.

  • minteacup says:

    Great article – the only reason I wasn’t surprised per se is because I’ve been around the block with an enduring special interest in perfumes. 🙂 You cannot be into perfume for too long without getting at least a bit involved in the chemistry of it all. Roses are a great choice to introduce this theme because they are so classic as to be nearly ubiquitous, and there are so many ways to create so many different rose accords. The prize sounds absolutely splendid and I’m especially intrigued by the use of upcycled materials too. Very cool. I’m in the US, thank you for the draw.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Great writeup on the importance of synthetics in today perfumery.

    Cheers from WI, USA