Bespoke Fragrance

  When I went out on my own as an independent perfumer, I started by making bespoke fragrances for people who wanted a personalized scent experience. The process began with a ‘discovery session’ where I would meet each client in person or virtually to learn what they were looking for in their bespoke fragrance.  Did they want something to wear every day or only for special occasions? What did they currently wear and what did they like about it? These types of questions were easy to answer. But what inevitably followed was a deep and personal dive into their lives that often led back to their childhood scent memories. We would often dig into their current scent choices in everything from their shampoo and hand soaps to perfumes.  It became clear that most people don’t think about all the ways scent affects them on deep levels. My job was to help them discover that. My ultimate goal was to create a unique scent for them that would make them feel special every time they wore it. 

Sherri Evaluating

I spent time showing them different ingredients. I taught them how to evaluate scents, and the role they play in a finished fragrance. The development process evolved into me formulating multiple rounds of fragrance experiments for them to wear and provide feedback. After several months of meetings, experiments, and wearing the scents the client chose their bespoke fragrance.  They received their very own perfume oil with a unique ‘Sebastian Signs’ number (the moniker under which I created bespoke numbered fragrances).  I even created my own bespoke numbered perfumes which are now part of my Heritage line at ProvisionScents.com.    

 Creating bespoke fragrances was very enjoyable and rewarding, but eventually I began to miss developing fragrances for brands. At first, I thought it was the environment I missed; working in a big impressive looking lab surrounded by my amber ingredient bottles, working alongside other perfumers, having hundreds of ingredients to experiment with, and experiencing the excitement that erupted when the company won a big fragrance brief.

 Pink Jasmine

But that wasn’t it. I came to realize that what I really missed was the mindset shift that occurred when I created a fragrance for a brand as opposed to an individual. Bespoke fragrance development was not as much conceptual as brand fragrance creation. It was educational for both me and the client.  In contrast, when developing for a brand, my initial work is purely conceptual.  No talking, no evaluation—in fact during this period I take extra attention to ensure my environment is as fragrance-free as possible. Notice I didn’t say ‘scent free’, but fragrance free.

Sherri In Nature

Being in nature with its inherit aromatic offerings is an ideal setting for me during these periods. Being in the desert or on top of a mountain during this phase—as I often am—is ideal.  As I free my mind and become immersed in conceptualizing a new scent the ideas flow naturally and spontaneously to me.  I could be driving to the store, taking a walk, doing the laundry, or just lying down with my eyes closed.  Being a creative, the ideas come to me one after the other when I give them the space and freedom to do so. Once I decide on a direction, I begin formulating and experimenting for a few weeks.

Evaluating the experiments is also completely immersive. I take blotters dipped in experiments with me and instinctively smell them when I’m driving and doing everyday tasks in my home. This process continues until I submit the first round to the customer for their evaluation when it becomes more interactive until a final scent is chosen. Finally, it’s out of my hands and the brand takes the lead in manufacturing and producing the finished products.  I’ve learned from both methods how the creative process changes depending on my relationship with the finished scent. With bespoke fragrance development my relationship with the client is most important. Since most people tend to gravitate to scents that are somewhat familiar to them, I’m limited with how far I can go with new ideas or ingredients. When creating for brands I’m able to be a bit more daring, introducing new ingredients and ideas as long as it fits into the brand story. Although I no longer make bespoke fragrances, I’m grateful to have found the perfect balance in making fragrances for my own brand while having relationships with my clients. It’s the perfect blend of business and pleasure.

—Sherri Sebastian, Contributing Editor

Sherri Sebastian is an independent perfumer and founder of luxury wellness brand, Provision.  provisionscents.com She’s based in Los Angeles and is the Vice President of the American Society of Perfumers.

 

  

Thanks to Provision Scents and perfumer Sherri Sebastian there is a draw for a USA registered CaFleureBon reader (if you are not sure if you are registered click here (you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid) for BOTH Sebastian Signs no 17 Bespoke Fragrance  (with notes of  Chocolate, musk, vanilla, incense) and a bottle of Provision Maitri Perfume (Italian Bergamot, Organic Eco-Certified Madagascan Vetiver, Ginger Absolute, Mandarin-Musk Accord, and Oakmoss.) Please tell us what your learned about the creative process and  behind the scenes development both brand and bespoke fragrances.

What ingredients would you use in your own bespoke fragrance? Draw closes 5/26/2021

all photos Sherri Sebastian©

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