Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Iris Medicis Intense via the brand
According to Roman myth, Iris slid to earth on a rainbow. She landed, apparently, in Tuscany, where she spread her wild roots and grew prolifically throughout the region. Indeed, the fleur-de-lis, or giglio, became the official emblem of Florence in the 13th century, where it was printed on Florentine currency and subsequently emblazoned on tapestries, etched in stonework, crafted into jewelry and fashion, and painted into the backgrounds of innumerable royal portraits. Today, it is impossible to wander Florence without seeing fleur-de-lis edifices and frescoes across the venerable city. And, find yourself in this lovely city in springtime, and you may catch its unmistakably lovely scent drifting from the many gardens where it still grows. But if a trip to Florence is out of the question, here’s the next best thing: a bottle of Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur new Iris Médicis Intense. Verdant, creamy-sweet with a savory saffron undertone, this is a gorgeously feminine iris with an unexpected masculine edge that could have been sported by Catherine, Lorenzo and Cosimo.
Patricia de Nicolaï has been an independent perfumer and founded her own brand in 1989 (Photo Credit: Madame de Nicolaï) ©
Madame recently explained the genesis of Iris Médicis Intense in an exclusive quote to Editor-in-Chief, Michelyn Camen:
“I always wanted to create a fragrance dedicated to iris, one of the rarest and most noble raw materials in the perfumer’s palette. However, although iris butter is rich and intense, it remains a discreet skin scent and working on the longevity of an iris perfume is quite challenging. It took me time to create this fragrance as my main idea was to focus and the longevity of the perfume. After many trials and combinations, I finally decided to combine the iris with a powdery violet and the sweetness of orange blossom. By adding violet and my favorite ingredient neroli, I discovered a lovely vibrancy! A warm sandalwood-musk-vanilla background, enhanced by a saffron leather, brings strength, sillage and a lingering trail.”
Albrecht Durer Giglio de Medici via wiki
Few perfumers working today can match Patricia de Nicolaï’s precision. One of the lovely things about Iris Médicis Intense is the way each note is given the space and time to fully unfold so that you can smell them in procession – a characteristic I often find in her compositions – while they simultaneously loom together like a tapestry. Loads of orris butter open the perfume, crowning the fragrance with their mournful pastry and violet powder sweetness. Flowery neroli, just slightly sudsy, comes immediately after and travels alongside the iris, buoying the star blossom’s creamy sweetness without overshadowing it. A decided dab of bright, acidic green from galbanum gives a piquant contrast and, along with orange blossom, creates the aura of a Florentine giardino.
Medici Lorraine Coat of Arms Museo dell Opificio delle Pietre 1590s
In the perfume’s heart, a surprise: saffron, dusty and spiced, begins to course like a warm pulse. Glove leather soon joins the saffron, imbuing Iris Médicis Intense with an aromatic robustness I have not come across in an iris perfume before. The savory elements feel quintessentially Florentine to me – the tannic redolence of leather, one of the chief trades of the city historically, and the exotic, old world smell of saffron, hint of ancient times. Next, the fresh, delicate sweetness of carrot drifts through the savory notes like a zephyr, and the dark, woodsy smell of violet makes its way into the center.
An hour after the first spray, I reassess. In its drydown Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Iris Medicis Intense keeps its eponymous ingredient squarely in the center of the fragrance, bordered by aromatic puffs of saffron, greenery and gentle citrus blossoms. And it lingers in this manner for several hours. To celebrate its Renaissance spirit, I am reapplying Iris Médicis Intense as I play Monteverdi on the stereo and plot my trip to Pitti Fragranze in a few weeks. As I close my eyes, the sun beats hotly, the concrete beneath my balcony gives way to images of Florentine streets, and I trace the outline of the fleur-de-lis among the passing clouds.
Notes: Galbanum essence, carrot seeds essence, iris butter, orange flower absolute, neroli essence, Violet, Sandalwood essence, leather accord, vanilla absolute, musk.
Disclaimer: Bottle of Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Iris Médicis Intense generously provided by Nicolai. My opinions, as always, are my own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Iris Medicis Intense via the brand
Thanks to the largess of Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur we have a 100 ml bottle of Iris Medicis Intense for one registered reader worldwide (excluding South America and the UK). To be eligible, please leave a comment describing what strikes you about Nicolai Iris Medicis Intense based on Lauryn’s review, whether you have a favourite Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur, and where you live. Draw closes 9/3/2023.
Editor’s Note: Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Iris Medicis Intense will debut ONLY in the Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur Boutiques (7 in Paris and 2 in London) and online September 2023.
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