X-Ray Profumo is a new company and fragrance line that has been introduced in an exclusive arrangement with Barney’s NY. The line currently has 3 scents: Resurrextion, Delirium, and Morphine.  The founder of the company, Ray Burns, spent his career in the world of beauty and fragrance, working largely at NARS Cosmetics.  He learned from Francois Nars and some of the best makeup artists in the world. Eventually, Ray’s passion turned to fragrance, working with and learning from some of the world’s master perfumers.  He is a consultant, creator, and marketer of innovative luxury niche perfumes.  Recently, Ray decided it was time to create a perfume line of his own, inspired by key places and times in his life.

Resurrextion is the scent that is reminiscent of his Italian roots, and is meant to invoke a feeling of the past glory and glamour of a 1950’s La Dolce Vita. Slightly bitter, yet still warm, herbal and citrus notes form the opening of this scent. There is a wonderful white almond aroma, and since almond is not an easy note for me to appreciate, I am impressed with how well this was incorporated into the blend.  The middle is more floral, and becomes sweeter as it dries down.  I really enjoyed the sweet vanilla drydown of this scent, and could still smell it on my wrist in the morning. I have never been to Italy, but can see how this fragrance could summon the sun and languor of Tuscany.

Notes: Bitter Orange, petitgrain, lavender, clary sage, blue chamomile, cardamom, coriander, white almond, orange flower absolute, raspberry splash, blond tobacco accord, Haitian vetiver, cistus labdanum absolute, thyme absolute, leather, sweet Madagascar vanilla, moss. The 50 ml artisan bottle has a 24K gold plated top, with amber perfume.

The feminine, flirtatious styles of the swinging sixties of London are the inspiration for Delirium. I very much enjoyed the bright, fruity opening of this scent and was enjoying the fragrance as a whole until a note came in that caused me to have a bit of a headache. I am rarely reactive to perfumes, and am sorry I could not continue the journey, as there was a lot of promise. I did catch some of the drydown, and can report that the perfume as a whole is composed well, with lovely floral heart notes and a slightly sweet woody base.

Notes: Pink peppercorn, bergamot, sparkling orange, patigrain, green pear, Madonna lily, carnation, Bulgarian rose orpur, Egyptian geranium, mate oil absolute, gardenia – jasmine accord, tuberose absolute, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, white musk, sandalwood. The 50 ml artisan bottle has a platinum-plated top, with green perfume.

Pulsating disco beats, flashing lights, and decadent hedonism can only mean the 1970’s in New York. Studio 54 was the helm of the ship, as the masses went wild with abandon. Morphine was created to conjure that exotic and sex-charged era, so I was expecting an aroma that would blow the top of my head off like some of the powerhouse perfumes of the day. Alas, we live in more discreet times. The notes of Morphine eluded me; before I saw the list I could have sworn it contained masses of dark fruits. There is a sweetness to it, and a spicy, boozy, honeyed warmth. Although it isn’t as much a dynamo as I was hoping (I guess I am a bit hard-core), it is my favorite of the three X-Ray offerings. It is a spicy Oriental, with an enticing character. I get small hits of aromas that aren’t in the notes, like anise and the aforementioned fruits. Good longevity, and moderate sillage.

Notes: Clary sage, Lavender, Bergamot, Cardamom seed, cinnamon bark orpur, Bulgarian rose oil, orris absolute, liquid honey, golden bourbon accord, cognac oil, patchouli, Australian sandalwood, ambrette seed, soft leather accord, rich musk. The 50 ml artisan bottle has a smoke platinum plated top with blue/gray perfume.

Disclosure: I received my samples through the generosity of the San Francisco Barney’s NY store personnel.

–Tama Blough, Senior Editor