Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours by Karl
“Velvet skin
A Gloved hand
Souvenir d’une FLEUR
D’IMMORTELLE
Stems of TOBACCO & rum
fortuitous RENCONTRE.” For Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours by Perfumer Julien Rasquinet (2012).
Julien Rasquinet of IFF, perfumer courtesy of the perfumer
This year, Naomi Goodsir, (French FIFI Expert Award Winner 2018 for an Independent Brand) celebrates ten years of creative freedom since the launch of Cuir Velours in 2012 and it seems as relevant today as ever. Discovering Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours in Milan during Esxence this year was quite the revelation and indeed a ‘fortuitous rencontre.’ Ms Goodsir and M. Coutaudier are a tour de force with their flair as exceptional creative directors of parfums. As with her haute couture, Naomi Goodsir’s eponymous brand of artistic fragrances reflect a unique aesthetic. To enlist Julien Rasquinet so early on in his career as a perfumer (prior to his appointment at IFF) was certainly an exceptional decision and one of great foresight.
Renaud Coutaudier and Naomi Goodsir Photo for CaFleureBon, 2016
“Cuir Velours (leather) by Julien Rasquinet is a deep and textured perfume, that evocatively encases the skin like soft velvet suede.”- Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier, in conversation with Michelyn Camen, Çafleurebon Editor in Chief.
Ten Year Celebration Image courtesy of Naomi Goodsir
To meet both Ms. Goodsir and M. Coutaudier at the Magna Pars Suites in Milan was an incredible honour, and I was humbled by their warmness and humility. For people who have achieved so much to give such a personal journey of their brand identity was a treat. This approach is clear when experiencing perfumes such as Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours. Here is a luxurious perfume, one of high class and powerful in its message but subtle enough to go under cover. It exudes beauty and style, is balanced to absolute perfection and there is much to be intrigued with. Whilst the liquid is a thick amber colour, I personally imagine dense noir curtains and feel it works fantastically when paired with a formal outfit of black-tie attire. The sensation is that of an extrait to my nose. It sits close enough to the skin whilst pulsing out for many hours.
The suede is front and centre but is wrapped in labdanum, immortelle, and incense. Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours still feels avant-garde whilst rooted in classical perfumery. There are notes, which are tried and true but also curious whiffs of the unexpected and never before experienced in my case. Although Cuir Velours translates from its original French to English as ‘velvet leather’ it is extraordinarily complex, and its effect is mesmeric on the skin. Indeed, it forms a scent bubble which encases one in what I can only explain as a succulent, rich tapestry of notes which intermingle and dance with our individual DNA. The rum and tobacco are there, and there is a cherry laced with a charred bourbon thrill to me. However, I then detect a dark ink sensation, which is completely unexpected and adds an underlying darkness to Cuir Velours that I absolutely love! It provides an almost melancholic backbone to the fragrance and also keeps it from leaning into gourmand territory.
Image of Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours with Caravaggio print by Karl.
Rather than a top, mid, and base structure. I sense other distinctive aspects coming in and out; a raw honeyed note and the chocolatey aspects of immortelle throughout the wearing whilst the central theme of suede is apparent. Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours brings to mind a Caravaggio painting; for its intense realism, chiaroscuro and deep expression. It is a darkly emotional perfume with dramatic effect. I would go as far as to hail it as a future classic.
Notes: Suede, Tobacco, Rum, Cistus Labdanum, Incense, Immortelle.
Disclaimer: Personally purchased. Views are my own.
Karl Topham, UK Ambassador & Senior Editor.
image courtesy of the brand
Thanks to Naomi Goodsir, we have a 50ml bottle of Cuir Velours for one registered reader USA, UK & EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appeals to you about Karl’s review, where you live, and which is your favourite Naomi Goodsir fragrance. Draw closes 11/30/22.
Please also read: Çafleurebon Creative Directors in Perfumery Naomi Goodsir & Renaud Coutaudier by Michelyn Camen here.
Ermano and Michelyn CaFleureBon Best Fragrance of the Year Corpus Equus 2021
Ermano and Michelyn CaFleureBon Best of Scent 2017 for Creative Direction and Nuit de Bakelite)
Please read about Julien Rasquinet, his life story and his thoughts on working with Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier our CaFleureBon Young Perfumer series here
Corpus Equus Review by Emmanuelle Varron here.
Nuit de Bakelite is a CaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece, review by Ermano Picco here
Available at stockists worldwide, to test or buy including Indigo Perfumery, Luckyscent and 7scent
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