Milano Fragranze Cortile Photo by Karl©
As I stepped into the auditorium, high ranking guests from the worlds of fashion, media and politics mingle. There was an electricity and expectation in the air. The red carpet and the stunning floral arrangements lured me towards the central theme of the evening; sapphire blue and gold bottles encasing the scents soon presented. It is 20.30 on a Friday evening, in Bucharest. However, the focus is set clearly on Milan, the house is Milano Fragranze, the new brand founded in 2020 by Alessandro Brun. My dear friend Izabela Juncu transfixed the audience with her unique presence. You felt the excitement build as one by one the audience was treated to a sensory experience of luxury and style.
Milano Fragranze Range Event Photo by Karl©
Fast forward and I was in discussion with venerable guests, and we took the opportunity to converse about which fragrances made an impression. I mentioned that each perfume has a particular theme and effect as if locations on a scented landscape. I chose Milano Fragranze Cortile for my new acquaintance to try, she immediately was taken hold by the scent. Its uniqueness and beauty apparent to her and we discuss the merits of such a fragrance long into the evening.
Milano Fragranze is a tribute to the city of Milan and is a range inspired by a number of themes, which tell specific stories of the architecture, communities, and fashion that Milan is famous for. A looking glass into the peculiarities and wonders of such historic locations. For Milano Fragranze Cortile (Courtyard) Michelle Moellhausen’s interpretation was chosen to reflect the specific ambience of the ballatoios (balconies) where couples enjoy a relaxing vibe, whilst taking in the smells of rich foliage and ristretto coffee that hangs in the evening air.
Milano Fragranze Cortile gives the impression of, ‘Rilassati e divertiti’ the ability to relax and enjoy the surroundings of which we are in. Tranquil peacefulness, an oasis amongst the hustle and bustle of daily routine provides a moment of calm reflection. I envisage tumbling borders of jasmine from the verandas and couples courting their adoration for each other over coffee at dusk. The idea of this scent is to recreate and frame a specific mood and image within one’s mind to glimpse into the sensibilities of Milanese life.
Alessandro Brun & Izabela Juncu at Pitti 2021 © Izabela Juncu
I am sure of Alessandro’s vision for Milano Fragranze Cortile undoubtedly had been specific in his reason for choosing Michelle Moellhausen. Surely this is because she was able to capture the impression and present it beautifully as the perfume is balanced just within the realms of moderation without overdosing ingredients, which could potentially ruin the overall vision of the brand.
On reading the notes, one may consider Cortile a floral bomb with a rudimentary use of coffee thrown in. This is not the case. Yes, the jasmine sambac is sensual and the coffee bean extract gives an energetic aspect to the scent. However, neither overwhelm. Instead, the character of the scent gives various glimpses through intelligent use of accompanying ingredients.
Karl Topham of CaFleureBon at Notorious event in Bucharest for Milano Fragranze©
To begin, we enter the courtyard at evening time and experience the whiff of ristretto mingling with cinnamon bark. The coffee note is specific to a shot of ristretto, as it is sweeter and more intense than a regular espresso. The addition of cinnamon bark enhances the sweetness and adds a slightly invigorating texture and a warm and balmy nuance. This lively aspect bolstered with the introduction of bergamot and violet leaves Absolut. It is a photo-realistic viewpoint of senses taking in the communal quarter as opposed to one specific aspect at a time. Imagine couples and families taking in their evening in such a convivial and communal atmosphere.
Ristretto Photo by Karl©
Rather than a deep transition, the headiness of jasmine sambac quickly becomes apparent and acts to anchor the scent. You can imagine tracing your fingers through the hanging foliage and picking at ripe fruits of peach and apricots via the subtle use of osmanthus. The peacefulness of the setting enhanced by the slightest touch of tuberose and ylang-ylang dosed in tiny amounts.
Enhancing the experience further through the courtyard, you brush past a couple making their way out into the centre for an evening of festivities or to the galleria. Subtle wafts of suede leather emanating from couture handbags and leather jackets that adorn these perfectly styled and pristine people. This base of amber, suede and Indonesian sandalwood brings a touch of class and elegance to the fragrance. There is a slightly dusty and powdery beauty to the scent that mixes so well, giving an aspect of the traditional setting and covings of the architecture surrounding you. Thus, the scene is set.
Milano Fragranze Cortile is a stylish scent that has a unique blend that one does not come across often. The choice of ingredients ensure that it is suitable for both casual and formal wear; it is better to describe the vibe of the fragrance rather than list it in a specific category. The Milano Fragranze range is meant to stimulate emotional connections and provide direct links to attainable dreams and purposefully priced by the founders at a budget, which all can access. When asked about the perfume creation process Alessandro Brun mentioned recently that over 150 submissions presented and only a handful chosen. The successful entries were ones that encapsulated the fusion of the multicultural and historical context of Milan in all its rareness.
Milano Fragranze Cortile by Karl©
As for Cortile, I leave the final words to Alessandro,
“In the hot summer all doors are opened on the ballatoio.
You can smell the evening coffee of every mamma in every house.
Two lovers are kissing in the shade.
In riches’ houses and working class’ alike, the jasmine in full bloom smells the same.”
Notes: Bergamot E.O., Coffee Beans Guatemala Extract, Cinnamon Bark E.O., Cinnamon, Violet leaves absolute, Jasmine Sambac Abs.,, Tuberose Abs., Osmanthus Abs., Ylang-Ylang E.Q., Amber accord, Suede accord, Sandalwood Indonesia E.Q.
Disclaimer: Bottle of Milano Fragranze Cortile kindly provided by Izabela Juncu on behalf of the brand. My opinions are my own.
Karl Topham, Senior Contributor
Watch Steven Gavrielatos Video introducing the brand and conversation with Alessandro Brun
Please read: Nicoleta Tomsa’s Milano Fragranze La Prima review and Panettone
Ida Meister’s review of Milano Fragranze Basilica
Lauryn Beer awarded Galleria one of her Top 10 perfumes of 2021
Naviglio Was a Top 10 perfume of 2021 for Steven Gavrielatos
Milano Fragrance Cortile by Karl©
Thanks to the generosity Milano Fragranze, we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of Milano Fragranze Cortile for one registered reader EU, UK & USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what specifically interests you about Karl’s review and where you live. Draw closes 4/3/22.
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