J’s image of MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait

I was at my happy perfume place in Dublin when their delivery of the new MATIERE PREMIERE Extraits arrived and two instantly stole my heart. First up was Radical Rose Extrait, which transforms the playful, summery vibe of the EDP’s patchouli rose into a darkly devastatingly diva, finery on and dripping with elegance as immortelle brings out the darkly sweet facets of the rose making it blooms in the night. Then Santal Austral Extrait knocked me sideways, a stunning elevation of Australian Sandalwood, making the material shine in the way perfumer Aurélien Guichard, perfumer and director of MATIERE PREMIERE does so well.

Aurélien Guichard and his Santal Austral Extrait courtesy of the brand.

As it opens, MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait sparkles with hints of metallic greens, as its complex textures create a delightful interplay of dry, woody notes alongside a soft, powdery sensation. The introduction of Nepalese Black Cardamom Essential oil in this Extrait version, along with a generous dose of Australian sandalwood oil, allows Santal Austral Extrait to resonate more powerfully, enriching its creamy, sensual undertones.

Australian sandalwood and essential oils used in Santal Austral Extrait courtesy of the brand.

It took me some time to move beyond my initial reaction to this new extrait, which was simply, WOW! It felt like diving into a bag of Australian sandalwood chips, enveloped in its aroma, a scent I absolutely love. This scent differs from Mysore sandalwood, which offers a richer, creamier woodiness with a touch of sour blonde woods, almost akin to the sensation of tasting bare skin. In contrast, Australian sandalwood presents a cooler experience; if Mysore is horizontal, Australian is vertical, with its sour notes taking on a refreshing uplifting green quality and a metallic sheen. It feels more fluid and milky compared to the denser Mysore. This milkiness lends Australian sandalwood a sensuous, silky texture as you wear it, accompanied by a calming aroma often associated with spiritual practices. Additionally, it features a balsamic myrrh facet that introduces a resinous sweetness, creating a deep intensity that emanates from its core. Aurélien Guichard masterfully showcases this remarkable material, enhancing its diverse characteristics and transforming it from a mere ingredient into a perfume that envelops you in a smooth, inky darkness.

Kano Motonobu – Ink Landscape between 1499 and 1599 part of the Art Institute of Chicago collection, creative commons.

The aroma of ink is another olfactive scent I love, MATIERE PRMEIERE Santal Austral Extrait has a fascinating overlap with black drawing ink, in my head a least, its that dark silky shimmering feel ink has when applied to a surface, with both ink and Santal Austral Extrait presenting with subtle smoky, dark woody notes scent wise, complemented by that slightly green, medicinal sharpness unique to Australian sandalwood. This inky essence conjures memoires of elegant traditional Japanese ink landscapes, Santal Austral Extrait holds that same captivating dark fluidity and elegance of the brush strokes that move with precision in a minimal deeply considered and thoughtful way. This connection with black ink scent likely explains why Santal Austral Extrait ranks among my top favourites in this new Extrait collection.

The Nepalese black cardamom essential oil used, crafted specifically for MATIERE PREMIERE, adds a unique touch to Santal Austral Extrait. I would love to experience it on its own to fully appreciate its character, but here it seems to enhance various aspects of the Australian sandalwood. Its cooler, aromatic greens soften the sharper edges of the sandalwood, while hints of lemony mint impart an airy, expansive quality, reminiscent of inky lines drawn on silk as it dances in a gentle breeze. The other side of the black cardamom’s coin gives us more dark facets, introducing a smoky woodiness, as if the sandalwood is gently smouldering, allowing its delicate incense-like notes to intertwine with the creamy, inky iris silk, accented by flashes of camphor that highlight the sweeter nuances.

Black Cardamom essential oils from Nepal used in MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait and Australian sandalwood courtesy of the brand.

These two materials are woven beautifully together by Aurélien Guichard, giving us a bold and alluring complex sensory sensation that further develops the originals creamy almond milk and iris facets, adding new depth, allowing that inky darkness to make the brightness and soft sensuality glow. More of the original’s dry resins and ambery facets reveal themselves later in the dry down, as the sandalwood and cardamom subtly smooth into a soft silky milky woody dream. Powerful woody amber materials are cleverly cloaked in the cardamom and sandalwood, smoothing out their more tenacious facets and giving that signature MATIERE PREMIERE seemingly endless feel, I still have no idea how this magic is a achieved in the citrus fresh Neroli Oranger, which seemingly defies the laws of physics. Benzoin gently softens the edges with its warm, fuzzy texture, creating a dreamy haze that draws your focus back to the heart of the Australian sandalwood and black cardamom. The tonka bean enriches the woods with a creamy vanilla whisper, dry yet hinting at coumarin, guiding you back to that silky, milky iris sensation. It feels as if a gentle, warm breeze is moving this soft sensual powdery iris silk, caressing your skin gently, while softer, powdery woods emerge, still glimmering with the gentle greens of cardamom. Santal Austral Extrait slowly transitions from the inky darkness into the light of sensual white woods, leaving you in a serene meditation on sensuality, its presence lingering beautifully in the air around you.

Notes: Organic Sandalwood Essence Australia, Black Cardamom Absolute from Nepal, almond milk, Iris Absolu Toscane, Benzoin Absolu Laos, Tonka Bean Absolu Venezuela.

Disclosure: MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait was sent to J to review. Thoughts and nose are his own.

J @wearescentient: Senior Editor, artist and olfactive writer.

J’s image of MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait 

Thanks to MATIERE PREMIERE we have a bottle of Santal Austral Extrait for one registered reader USA or EU. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a quality comment about what sparked your interest in J’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Santal Austral Extrait, and where you live. Do you have a favorite from the brand? Draw closes 10/10/24.

Matière Premiere was awarded The U.K. Fragrance Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire for Radical Rose in 2021 and Crystal Saffron was a Fragrance Foundation Finalist for “Indie Fragrance of The Year” 2023.

Please read Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien Guichard and use a quote from that interview and your comment will count twice here.

Watch Steven’s video Encens Suave Extrait of Crystal Saffron. 

Please read Karl’s Review of Matière Premiere Vanilla Powder here.  Vanilla Powder was named Best of 2023 by Michelyn.

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