MATIERE PREMIERE Radical Rose Extrait Review (Aurélien Guichard) 2024 +Rose Seduction Giveaway

MATIERE PREMIERE Radical Rose Extrait

J’s image of MATIERE PREMIERE’s Radical Rose Extrait

Radical Rose Extrait instantly stole my heart when I first smelled it, I’d already fallen for the fun-loving patchouli rose EDP but the extrait elevates the experience even further for me. Immortelle is one of my favourite materials and flowers, in perfumes its essence is deeply complex nearly being a perfume in it own right with deep dark hues that range from a burnt candy sweetness to purring bodily musky spices meeting a darker honeyed balsamic heart. Aurélien Guichard, the perfumer and founder of MATIERE PREMIERE, skillfully harnesses this exquisite material; drawing out its deeper, darker facts alongside his own highly dosed roses, grown in his hometown flower farm in Grasse.

Aurelien Guichard perfumer

Perfumer Aurélien Guichard and his Rose Centifolia Absolute France courtesy of the brand.

A sultry fleshy pink rose blossoms on your skin, it’s fresh with deep pink peppery spices leaping forward as cool dew drips from the rose petals, giving you this cool yet spiced warmth brimming with a delicious jammy rose sweetness. Saffron turns this into a soft shimmering steam as a soft honeyed overtones wink at you, flashing a glimpse of the delights beneath Radical Rose Extrait’s petals. This stunning rose scent of pushed to limits here using MATIERE PREMIERE own organically grown roses. It’s feels so full and huge letting saffron turn its petals into sultry sensual silks feeling like a stunning pink rose has wrapped itself around your skin. Subtle herbal green flickers at the edges with patchouli’s earthy richness hinting at Radical Rose Extrait’s darker desires.

Immortelle in perfumery

J’s Photo of immortelle

You can slowly feel the rose getting richer and deeper as more warm spices join the jammy sweetness with subtle balsamic resins making the sweet juices sticky, luscious and enticing. The pink feeling fades as the petals unfurl further, revealing darker reds and crimsons. Saffron makes its spices glisten with gentle mineralic flashes, giving them an erotic bite as its thorns gently tease you. The playful side of Radical Rose EDP fades here, as a darker deeper rose takes you by the hand and leads you into the night. Radical Rose Extrait turns up the seductive sexiness levels as immortelle drips deep honeyed tones over the petals. The jammines of the rose starts to have a figgy facet, with a beautiful abstract floral yellow glow radiating from the rose. Here is where the extrait departs from the EDP; Aurélien Guichard has used Croatian immortelle absolute in a very high dose with his Rose Centifolia Absolute to take Radical Rose Extrait to the next level of opulence. Immortelle is a super complex material and here its darker sweet facets give depth to the rose while working with saffron’s suede/leather facets to give than a purring raw edge that give you a wink of carnal desire. Soft skin like musks hum with subtle savory salts and spices, as things get steamy.

Radical Rose Extrait by Matiere Premiere

J’s image of MATIERE PREMIERE’S Radical Rose Extrait©

The Extrait’s dry down darkens the rose even more, saffron keeps the petals feeling luminous and silky with subtle rougher velvet textures added from pepper and immortelles complex spices. Saffron lifts the composition too with its shimmering metallic mineralic facets making the dark rose unfurl revealing its sultrier slightly animalic heart. Immortelle whispers of bodily spices as you get intimate with Radical Rose Extrait, its darker liquorice facets seep into labdanum’s resins as a soft smokiness wrap around the rose giving its this sensual mysterious allure. Immortelle brings this darkness out revealing the inner desires of Radical Rose out in this extrait iteration. The playful airy patchouli rose is ready for the night and has pleasure on its mind.

Matière Premiere Radical Rose Extrait

MATIERE PREMIERE’ Radical Rose Extrait and Rose Centifolia Absolute France courtesy of the brand.

You still get flashes of its jammy sweetness; though with the immortelle it’s a darker more burnt sugar and deep Manuka honey facets adding a richness. The woody undertones from patchouli and labdanum’s resins giving a chiaroscuro effect with the counterpoint of vanilla and sweet musks bringing the light to Radical Rose Extrait.  With the saffron this makes Radical Rose Extrait a very opulent wear, it turns the fun loving EDP into a devastatingly sultry rose, one that will break your heart and enjoy doing it. Saffron whispers of leather mixed in with the softer sweet rose kisses all while it envelops you in its opulent wake. This is a black rose engulfed in dark rich pleasure, glowing with immortelle and bodily musky desire. It’s a rose to fall for, a heartbreaker that has you yearning for more… To quote PJ Harvey, ‘This is love, this is love, that I’m feelin’.

Notes: Rose Centifolia Absolute France, Immortelle Absolute Croatia, Pepper Berries Essence Jamaica, Saffron, Patchouli Essence Indonesia, Labdanum Absolute Andalusia.

Disclosure: MATIERE PREMIERE Radical Rose Extrait was sent to J to review. Thoughts and nose are his own.

 J @wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist and olfactive writer.

Radical Rose Extrait MATIERE PREMIERE

J’s image of MATIERE PREMIERE’S Radical Rose Extrait©

Thanks to MATIERE PREMIERE we have a bottle of Radical Rose Extrait for one registered reader USA or EU. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a quality comment about what sparked your interest in J’s review of MATIERE PREMIERE Radical Rose Extrait, and where you live. Do you have a favorite from the brand? Draw closes 11/23/24.

MATIERE PREMIERE was awarded The U.K. Fragrance Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire for Radical Rose in 2021 and Crystal Saffron was a Fragrance Foundation Finalist for “Indie Fragrance of The Year” 2023.

Please read Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurélien Guichard and use a quote from that interview and your comment will count twice here.

Read my review of Santal Austral Extrait here

Watch Steven’s video Encens Suave Extrait of Crystal Saffron. 

Please read Karl’s Review of MATIERE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder here. Vanilla Powder was named Best of 2023 by Michelyn.

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9 comments

  • Raoul says:

    Thank you for this lovely review! Matière Première always captures such depth and artistry in their fragrances, and Radical Rose Extrait sounds like a masterpiece. The idea of a more intense and seductive rose, crafted by Aurélien Guichard, is truly enticing. I’d love to experience the duality of its richness and freshness myself. Fingers crossed for this giveaway! Thank you for the opportunity! I live in Romania, Europe.

  • Vladimir says:

    I love how all the facets of an already masterfully crafted scent are deepened and enriched in the extrait version according to J’s voluptuous description. Like taking the finest of everything and leveling up to the point of decadent excess.

    As the saying goes: A rose is a rose is a rose…

    Well, not this one. The original is a huge love of mine, it would be a dream come true to sniff this from Maître Guichard.

    Thanks for the draw. Based in the EU

  • Sybelle16 says:

    In J’s review: First off, to already love the original, but prefer the new extrait version is high praise for newest incarnation. And the focus on the Immortelle note, with its deeper nuances that run the gambit from sweet to a musky-spiciness paired with fragrant roses from Grasse, that go darker in the dry down–combined with the other highlight notes of saffron, herbaceous notes and labdanum create a luxurious, overall wear that is more of a dark, sultry vixen of a scent: “This is a black rose engulfed in dark rich pleasure”.

    USA

  • Ramses Perez says:

    I said it before and I’ll say it again, Matiere Premiere is one of the best niche houses. If you were to ask me, they were strong enough (the originals) so when I saw that extra it’s were coming out I was scared. However, reading more that there is something a little different indeed and not just the higher concentration of the oils, it makes the new collection very enticing. Radical Rose, although it has a simple note breakdown, it’s exactly what the name implies: a rose fragrance like no other. The rose note is vibrant, front and center with the rest of the notes playing in the background. The immortelle addition along with the amped up saffron, it’s a match made in heaven. Saffron goes so well with rose and the addition of the patchouli only adds to the longevity of the scent. A radical name for a radical rose scent! I’m located in the USA.

  • Diana D says:

    First off, I had never heard of this perfume house before. This article is a wonderful overview of the fragrance. While I love all rose scents, my favorite is the jammy, rich, full bodied kind. Radical Rose Extrait sounds incredible and exactly in my wheelhouse. My favorite quote from your description is “With the saffron this makes Radical Rose Extrait a very opulent wear, it turns the fun loving EDP into a devastatingly sultry rose, one that will break your heart and enjoy doing it.”

    I live in the USA.

  • dctrbanner says:

    I didn’t always like rose; when I was younger I felt that it was kind of an old-fashioned scent. In recent years though, I’ve been really enjoying the discovery (or rather, re-discovery) of the note – it has so many different facets that I’m convinced my nose just wasn’t mature enough to appreciate it back then. That said, the name of this fragrance alone intrigues me, and this review has me doubly interested – I love a jammy rose, but add a dark immortelle and a rich honey? Sign me up.

    I’ve come to realize the truth in Aurélien Guichard’s words:
    “Not everyone can relate to a fragrance. However, when it comes to raw materials, anyone can appreciate the beauty of a citron, a sandalwood, a rose or a tuberose.”

  • docm3902 says:

    J’s review of MATIERE PREMIERE Radical Rose Extrait grabbed my attention with its vivid, almost cinematic storytelling. The way he described the evolution of the rose—starting as a playful, fresh bloom and deepening into a dark, seductive heart—is nothing short of mesmerizing. The imagery of saffron turning the petals into “sultry sensual silks” and immortelle dripping honeyed tones over the composition makes this fragrance sound like an experience rather than just a scent.

    I also love how he captures the interplay between light and dark—jammy sweetness balanced with spicy, resinous undertones—and the use of phrases like “erotic bite” and “pleasure on its mind” makes it impossible not to be intrigued. Plus, the idea of the rose going from “fun-loving” in the EDP to “devastatingly sultry” in the extrait is fascinating. If a perfume can embody that much complexity and emotion, I need to try it!

    EU

  • Marisa says:

    I own the original Radical Rose and was on the fence about buying the extrait. Until I read Wearescentient review. “Radical Rose Extrait turns up the seductive sexiness levels as immortelle drips deep honeyed tones over the petals.” I love immortelle as well (looking at you Ganymede).
    The Quote I loved was when he spoke about his training on his own, “Two things still strike me today as important takeaways from this period. First, the creative conviction and courage it took, for established brands and marketing directors to let a young trainee perfumer create his first perfumes alone, under no Master Perfumer’s guidance and supervision. This is rare.” My favorite from the brand Matiere Premiere is Parisian Musc.
    EU

  • WillRhodes says:

    The original Radical Rose was one of the most beautiful perfumes I’ve gotten my nose on. A similar DNA to profiles I love such as Portrait of a Lady and Eau Capitale, but with a deeper depth that I found to be more elegant with its dry down. I would love to see the direction the extrait goes with its saffron. Sounds so gorgeous!