Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive and Chatillon Lux
Missouri native perfumer Shawn Maher is launching a celebratory first release for his innovative new line of unique fragrances, Maher Olfactive – just in time for his birthday, which is April 28th. If you are wondering why Maher Olfactive was created in light of Shawn’s already original work at Chatillon Lux – you’re likely not alone. Shawn desired a separate space where the goal was Art for Art’s Sake – unconstrained by budgetary concerns such as cost of materials. It would also grant him freedom to release a fragrance when he felt it was truly ready (a reality which perfume lovers may not often consider). Crystal Moon is the perfumer’s birthday gift to himself: a novel interpretation of his adored osmanthus absolute encircled by aromatic materials which emphasize its tea-like, fruity fresh visage as opposed to the leathery facet we frequently encounter in perfumery.
All of this hinges upon a Chinese legend. Here are the perfumer’s musings:
“As I was working on some early accords for this perfume, I was researching osmanthus in culture. I found a legend that really helped me finalize the feeling that I was trying to reach. That is where the idea of making this feel like living on the moon in a crystal palace.
Chang’e, Goddess of the Moon and Wu Gang artgallerynsw
There was a legend of Chang’e, (goddess of the moon) a princess who was banished to live on the moon in a crystal palace. Also living there was a type of Sisyphean character named Wu Gang, who worked continually trimming a giant osmanthus tree from overtaking the palace. No matter how much he swung his ax, the tree kept healing. Giant, uncontainable osmanthus combined with a shimmering palace in the soft, lunar light? That did the trick.” ~ from Shawn Maher’s Scent Notes
Wu Gang chopping the sweet osmanthus tree Eng.gov.cn
Giant osmanthus? Perhaps upon the first spritz you might say that; what is immediately apparent is a joyful expanse of heavenly fruit-and-flower, a profusion of elegant and comforting tones which soothe and intrigue. A Taurus’ dream…something I understand as a Taurus ascendant and Venus in Taurus person. We crave voluptuousness, fullness, comfort and the arts. Crystal Moon gives us all that and more.
A Lady from Qing Dynasty LiFeng Di©
Imagine Osmanthus Embroidered – and not simply any needlework but an intricate, multi-hued silken web of blossoms and resin, fresh juicy fruit entangled with the chewy density of dried, wisps of wood and Ethiopian coffee swirled about in a bone china saucer. Our perfumer has tinctured his own Yirgacheffe coffee and lavender flowers in order to obtain his sought-after effect: that of this form of lavender enhancing osmanthus’ floralcy and complex coffee notes murmuring of fruit and flowers. Shawn mentions elemi and galbanum in his Scent Notes, and indeed one can smell them – one lemony and the other effusively green, sticky. Galbanum resin and jonquil are a match made in heaven when left to couple as they wish, but in Crystal Moon they add something else: it’s as if galbanum has thrown in its lot with that of hinoki and juniper, rendering the woods verdant and incense like. Jonquil feels honeyed, juicy and imparts a beeswaxy aroma tinged with tobacco as it mellows. Berry flourishes and the peach skin of gamma-undecalactone round out Crystal Moon’s lushness. I feel as if I can’t quite do justice to the beauty and complexity of it all. This is one perfume which really requires skin in order to sing and time to allow it to unfold and reveal itself. For me, that is a marker of a fine fragrance: I want to be entranced over time like a slow seduction, insidious and potently irresistible.
Notes: osmanthus absolute, lavender flowers, jonquil absolute, Yirgacheffe coffee tincture, raspberry, hinoki, juniper, Peru balsam, dried fruit, amber resin
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor (as always, my nose is my own…)
Maher Olfactive Crystal Moon photo by Shawn
As it happens, Shawn was kind enough to send me a sample before this actually goes live. I was so glad because I want to get my nose on anything he composes! If you look on his website, it already says “sold out”. I believe he initially wanted to hold out until the end of April (and he will). HOWEVER: he is offering an avant premiere full bottle of Crystal Moon eau de parfum for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Please join us in wishing Shawn Maher a very happy and creative early birthday! Do you have a favorite Chatillon Lux or Maher Olfactive perfume? Draw closes 4/6/2020
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