Shakespeare A Midsummer Night’s Dream Titiana and fairies dancing around L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile, observed by Oberon and Puck – Painting ©William Blake (around 1786), L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile bottle ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
The La Botanique collection is relatively overlooked in comparison to L’Artisan Parfumeur’s other better known fragrances. Let’s start from the beginning: in 2016, for the 40th anniversary of the brand, L’Artisan Parfumeur launched “Natura Fabularis” (Nature Mythology), a collection of six perfumes created by Daphné Bugey all referencing an idealized bucolic countryside and given (Latin) names. Mirabilis, Arcana Rosa, Venenum, Tenebrae, Violaceum and Glacialis Terra numerically correspond to the number of trials and mods before the fragrances were finalized. The 2018, the collection had a visual universe created in collaboration with the famous Parisian taxidermist Deyrolle. In 2021, the name remains unchanged, but this time English artist Katie Scott created the graphics and design. Today there are six fragrances (two were discontinued Violaceum and Glacialis Terra) to make way for the brand new L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile and L’Artisan Parfumeur Obscuratio. It is the former that I am reviewing today. Admittedly, choosing between them was not easy as both are sublime on skin.
Daphné Bugey and Katie Scott – ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron
Firmenich Principal Parfumeur Daphné Bugey also signed L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile and L’Artisan Parfumeur Obscuratio. Once again, Mother Nature is celebrated in a magical way far from today’s world and our techno driven era. The wonderful and dreamlike spirit is a omnipresent; flora and fauna abound with a naïve touch which evokes both medieval botanical illustrations and Saint-Exupéry The Little Prince.
Daphne Bugey quote on L’Artisan Parfumeur La Botanique collection – L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile backround ©Katie Scott, edited by Emmanuelle Varron.
There are only three listed notes for L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile (Incredible Twilight) – jasmine, sandalwood and tonka bean; the number 63 representing “sixty-three” mods are indicated on its label. The storytelling is about summer nights after nature is bathed and heated by the sun during the day. The jasmine is engulfed in this intense light, white hot, and radiating a dizzying aroma in the dark.
A jasmine sunset for Crepusculum Mirabile – Jasmine bush ©Pixabay, L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile bottle ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, collage by Emmanuelle Varron.
The opening is thunderous. A powdered puff of aldehydes is very brief and intense thus setting the tempo. Jasmine immediately takes the lead and marks the skin with an ultra-carnal touch. I also perceive that tuberose takes part in the celebration, giving even more body to this dizzying jasmine, but there is also a camphorous effect which amplifies its diffusion. I sense a velvety facet that I believe is ylang-ylang, as if the morning dew had invited itself in the middle of the night without disrupting the “caliente” atmosphere. This bewitching white flower trio is the backbone of L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile and is present throughout. I am almost stunned each time I smell my wrist!
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Botanique collection display designed by Katie Scott at the rue Saint-Honoré Paris boutique – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Usually, when I try a new perfume, I give it a second spray and that often opens me to other ingredients that were hidden at first. In L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile I perceive just a touch of cumin which never distracts from the white flower power, it comes and goes randomly, like a star shooting in the nocturnal skyscape. At the drydown, the temperature dips– the woody and milky creaminess of sandalwood and tonka ride the floral waves and transform this fiery scent into a fragrance that is still warm, but not burning hot. L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile transports me into the magical circle of Shakespeare A Midsummer Night’s Dream transforming jasmine into a “love-in-idleness” flower.
Official notes: jasmine, sandalwood, tonka bean.
Other perceived notes: aldehydes, iris, cumin, tuberose, ylang-ylang.
Disclaimer: Merci beaucoup to L’Artisan Parfumeur for the Crepusculum Mirabile sample provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.
Emmanuelle Varron, Senior contributor
L’Artisan Parfumeur Crepusculum Mirabile 75 ml bottle – Picture ©Emmanuelle Varron
Thanks to L’Artisan Parfumeur, we have a 75 ml bottle of Crepusculum Mirabile for one registered reader in the US, EU and UK. To be eligible, please leave a comment on what you feel about Emmanuelle’s review, what is your favorite L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrance and where you live. Draw closes 09/26/2021.
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @monbazarunlimited @lartisanparfumeur @daphne_bugey @katiekatiescott
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.