Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo collage by Michelyn using images from the brand©
Già il sole dal Gange
Più chiaro sfavilla,
E terge ogni stilla
Dell’alba che piange.
Col raggio dorato
Ingemma ogni stelo,
E gli astri del cielo
Dipinge nel prato. ~ Alessandro Scarlatti, Già il sole dal Gange
“Already the sun sparkles more brightly from the Ganges and dries every tear of the weeping dawn. With its golden ray it bejewels every stem; the celestial stars limn the meadow.” (My translation)
Jean Claude Ellena via the Fragrance Foundation France
Master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena freely acknowledges the unfettered joy of Italy so poignantly expressed in his Viaggio in Italia Collection for Laboratorio Olfattivo – as well as his own Italian heritage, Grasse-born though he may be. His most recent fragrant contribution is Pompelmo (grapefruit), which quite took me by surprise when it claimed pride of place in my citrus affections. Yes, I venerate lime, yuzu and a few others which have not (as yet) been represented by this marvelous house, but I never anticipated that grapefruit would supplant their other offerings. As such, it is a glowing tribute to Monsieur Ellena’s mastery. One sniff, and the cogs in my overactive brain turned to Scarlatti’s clarion adulation of the dawn’s initial gilded rays; that melody, and its beautiful lyrics – have since decided to fashion a delightful melodic loop which haunts me.
Max Ernst Landscape with Sun, 1909 via WikiArt
Citrus fruits have long been beloved by perfumers and perfumistas alike: their expansive, larger-than-life vitality and ability to elevate the most flagging spirit has won them a permanent place in the olfactory palette. Certainly they are nothing if not versatile, capable of providing an effervescent introduction, illuminating heart notes, and starring as the main attraction in many perfumes. Grapefruit may frequently be viewed as a polarizing entity, perceived as too bitter/sour to garner praise; its innate sulfuric characteristic does not make it a crowd-pleaser in the manner of orange and lemon. We do well not to dismiss it out of hand, nonetheless – for in the hands of an artist, grapefruit becomes a multi-hued entity swathed in nuance and suavity. Perhaps this is why I associate it with surrealist and expressionist painters, rather than any impressionistic style. To each his own synaesthesia: Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo sings to me of glowing, mystical representation. It is spacious in nature, juggling the forthright with the subtle like an aromatic tightrope-walker.
Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo via the brand
Maître Ellena’s great strength lies in his reluctance to gild the lily – a quality which has always endeared his body of work to me. When called upon, as he has been in the past – he has been responsible for more ornate, even baroque masterpieces – but I suspect that, as a cook and perfumer, he ultimately prefers to have his materials speak for themselves. In Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo this is precisely what they do; they sing. We are seduced by the pith, the peel of a ripe grapefruit and its many attributes, which are complemented by the intense freshness of pink pepper and its dry, sweet/spicy warmth underpinned with herbal tones (pink pepper, aka schinus molle, is a hardy evergreen). Pompelmo’s tender earthiness is enhanced by yet another beautiful material yielded by (another) evergreen – lentisk, aka lentisque or mastic. Lentisk is balsamic, possessed of sweet terpenic notes which soften over time. The perfumer’s decision to delicately dose patchouli is a brilliant one: no one note announces Wood! Loam! Instead, as in many a finely-prepared dish, we are aware of intricate subtleties creating a delicacy which appear to be more than the sum of its parts. Vetiver feels tailor-made, particularly because it never steamrolls Pompelmo’s other fragrant ingredients; nowhere is there any suggestion of an oppressive, heavy hand to be found.
Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo is quite long-lasting; well into the drydown it lies close to the flesh while retaining its unique personality. An added bonus is the discreet soupçon of powderiness – just a whisper of it – which becomes perceptible after several hours. If discretion is the better part of valor, then the newest member of the Viaggio in Italia family is proof positive that beauty needn’t scream to attract and keep our attention.
Notes: Italian grapefruit, pink pepper, lentisk, patchouli, vetiver
To better acquaint yourselves with the Laboratorio Viaggio in Italia Collection, please enjoy the following reviews: Limone, Bergamotto, Mandarino, and Arancia Rossa.
Bottle generously gifted by KAON – many thanks! My nose is my own…
Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo via the brand
Thanks to the kindness of Laboratorio Olfattivo we have a 100 bottle of Laboratorio Olfattivo Pompelmo for one registered reader (you must register or your comment will not count) in the EU or U.S. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Pompelmo based upon Ida’s review, where you live, and whether you have tried other Laboratorio Olfattivo fragrances. Draw closes 8/15/2023.
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