Zhang Jingna©

“Il faut, dans ce bas monde, aimer beaucoup de choses

Pour savoir, après tout, ce qu’on aime le mieux.” ~ A M.V.H. (À Mon Ami Victor Hugo), written by Alfred de Musset, April 26, 1843

“It is necessary, in this world, to love many things

In order to know, after all, that which one loves the most.” (my translation)

Modus vivendi. Ever since I clapped eyes upon this poem in junior high school, I was riveted by the truth of it. My parents were not pleased by my immense curiosity encompassing a seemingly endless stream of subjects. Why couldn’t I limit myself to one or two at the most? I still cannot answer that; it doesn’t seem to matter anymore. We are what we are – and I remain annoyingly and incurably curious.

Blanc Canvas fashion editorial, photo by Corrie Bond for Marie Claire Australia, Aug 2012

I love many things. In this particular case I’m referring to Jasmine – and because I’ve scribbled about so many, I thought it might make a nice change to discuss three with which you might not be familiar. They are each a lyrical joy, comfort-inducing and uniquely different from one another. None of them are in a high price range, each possesses lovely longevity, and you’ll likely not meet many others in your day who will be wafting them.

Photo of Jasmine by Elise Pearlstine©

As with so many perfumes I’ve loved, these have been decanted often and shared with friends – and re-purchased when I ran out. They’ve been composed by marvelous perfumers; what’s not to love (unless, of course – you don’t like jasmine…)?  Here are some I haven’t reviewed. Let’s begin!

via Keikomecheri.com

Keiko Mecheri Clair-Obscur (formerly named Jasmine): perfumer Yann Vasnier, 200?: Years ago, before such things came readily to light – it became known that young Yann Vasnier was composing for Keiko Mecheri (who is one of the loveliest people I know). In 2005, (but it might have been earlier, perhaps 2000) this fragrance was released under the name Jasmine, and then re-released as Clair-Obscur (meaning chiaroscuro) in 2012 (according to her website), Has it altered? Not a bit. Clair-Obscur continues to be a true jasmine soliflore which falls into the wistful feathery category. It is the variety of perfume which makes you feel beautiful: a wisp of indolic floral swept away in a cloud of radiance, ever-so-soft and approachable. It manages to be truthful and romantic – the one I purchased for my Pakistani girlfriend to wear on her wedding day (and my friend is quite particular, nay fussy). Clair-Obscur suits wildly differing skins: it’s heavenly on my cafe latte-hued Fiona, yet alabaster, Renoir-esque Christine (whose complexion resembles roses and cream) wears it with equal success. I resemble neither friend and it compliments me as well. I’ve had to decant a lot of it because it’s so appreciated overall. Refined, elegant perfume which doesn’t overwhelm you and flatters like good lighting and a well-designed garment; I think that’s a good introduction. Notes: Sicilian night-blooming jasmine, jasmine absolute, petitgrain

 

 

 

via Providenceperfume.com

Providence Perfume Co. Sweet Jasmine Brown: perfumer Charna Ethier, 2014:  I had to slip one tiny-but-mighty powerhouse indolic jasmine-cum-gourmand in there, you know; I couldn’t help myself. When perfumer Charna Ethier came out with her bevy of oil perfumes in 2014 I felt like a kid in a candy store: how could I choose??? Over time I grew to love each one passionately for wildly varied reasons. Suffice it to say that Sweet Jasmine Brown is one dirty dirty girl, which is why she’s included here among all the romance. We all have occasion to desire a sassy little spitfire like her: only 4 mls., but heavens! What a big personality. Completely portable and long lasting, these oils pack a punch – and this little growler is decadent and skews dark. Vanilla is for gentling, but don’t expect it to photobomb this fragrance, because it won’t. Neither will tonka, for that matter. Cocoa nib is a dark horse and ylang is its perfect foil (I’ve often paired them in baked goods); the latter possessing its own buttery, bananalike animalic tones. A touch of pepper works well with both jasmine and cocoa (try it next time you’re making something dark chocolate-themed) – a little spicy, dries out excess sweetness, gives you that pop we so enjoy. Horsey ambrette lends tenacity and further underscores the jasmine growl. This is such a fun perfume! Give it a go, if you’re feeling adventurous. Notes: jasmine, vanilla, pink pepper, tonka, cocoa nib, ylang ylang, musk ambrette

 Jasmine workers in Grasse via flikr

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Jasmin Rêvé: perfumer Jean-Claude Gigodot, 2013 for Virginie Roux: If brevity is required, then Jasmin Rêvé classifies as Glowing Jasmine. It is equal parts spicy jasmine and woody-vanillic largesse bedded down in sandalwood from heaven – all the while tenderly tempered with rose (the universal playmate). This fragrance is a Solifloriental. It spans the seasons graciously: cozy in cold climates and all lush abundance when temperatures soar. The aromatic materials are topnotch and seamlessly blended by a perfumer who clearly adores the South-of-France terrain and is completely at home in it. So might you be, if you choose. The 100 ml. bottles seem to last forever, which is another plus: plenty to wear, to share, to enjoy in shameless plenitude. Spray yourself mad; go ahead. It’s delicious, affordable, irresistible. Why it isn’t much talked about is a mystery to me. Notes: jasmine, rose, musk, sandalwood, vanilla

N.B. – all these perfumes I purchased and are from my own collection. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

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Thanks to the generosity of Virginie Roux the creative director of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger (whose Eau de Virginie won a 2018 Art and Olfaction Award), we have a 100 ml bottle of of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Jasmin Rêvé for one registered reader (register here if you have not already done so) in the EU, USA and Canada. Please leave a comment saying what appeals to you to about Ida’s choices and where you live. Draw ends 5/4/2020

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