Hiram Green via Hiram Green in his studio in Gouda, The Netherlands (a teaser for Hiram Green Vivacious) via Instagram
My sample of award-winning artisanal natural perfumer Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Vivacious – arrived yesterday; I was eagerly anticipating it for several reasons. Firstly, because I have yet to be disappointed by any perfume of his; secondly, because Hiram provides brilliant aromatic counterpoint to those who fundamentally eschew natural perfumery on principal; and lastly because I am an incurable romantic who Venerates the Violet.
Manet Bouquet of Violets
The perfumer has given us yet another voluptuous floral, one which woos us with vestiges of vintage violet – in this case, a sharing of DNA with my very old flacon of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue extrait. It is inevitable that some will notice similarities between the two. It is equally not my intention to harp on about it, but to direct the nose along a path which reveals Vivacious’ singular charms.
Franz Hohenberger – Portrait of a Lady in a Blue Dress with Violets
Disclaimer: I don’t believe that any flower ‘goes out of style’ or is dated. One treatment may appear more current, relatable to a particular audience – which is what we encounter when an individual sniffs a fragrance and remarks, “Wow. That’s such an old lady smell.” Many view violet and carnation (along with rose and lavender) as old-fashioned in perfumery – when it actually is how they are portrayed /partnered which one perceives as unpleasant (no need to be insulting about it: taste is taste; to each his own). Present the same person with a hot, leathery carnation with an oud underbelly – or, say – an aldehydic, verdantly metallic, edgy violet walking a tenuous tightrope – and that same person would likely feel quite differently about these flowers. Hiram Green’s Vivacious is its own creature: it delves into the cream of what’s vintage and suffuses it with originality so that it feels timeless (it also feels Classic and Elegant).
Alexander McQueen 2007 used fresh flowers photo by Steven Meisel for Vogue
Hiram’s violet appeals because it’s luscious, in hot pursuit of that lusty flaming carnation. Vivacious‘s bergamot is a palate cleanser, and what ensues is thoroughly floral/effulgent in its own way, sparkling with vitality, nudged with green. If one is purely regarding notes, then it’s old school vintage beauty full stop: some of the loveliest perfumes we know include them, houses like Guerlain and Caron (not to put too fine a point upon it). Where one’s beloved L’Heure Bleue opens spicily anisic followed by the richness of orange blossom, heliotrope, tuberose, jasmine (with violet, orris and carnation in tow, among others), it morphs into a deeply powdery whisper-cocoon of cinnaminic benzoin, tonka, vanilla and musk. L’Heure Bleue’s softly honeyed almondy hush is a far cry from Vivacious’ tone: amber may contribute its dulcet balsamic nature as base, but floral ebullience is the order of the day. At no point does this perfume wax boudoir-powdery, even in the drydown phase.
Vanithe¦ünez a nez
Vivacious is comfortable in its own skin, unapologetically joyous and abloom with enthusiasm. It is not wistful, moody, dusky in any wise; Hiram Green’s latest scentchild is bursting with bonhomie. Perhaps Patchouly would do well to scoot over for a while: maybe it’s Violet’s turn to be the Next Flower Child. Notes: bergamot, violet, carnation, orris (iris), amber
Sample kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks for this gem! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
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Hiram Green Vivacious via Instagram
Thanks to Indigo Perfumery, we have two samples of Hiram Green Vivacious – one for one registered reader in the USA OR one registered reader in the EU. (Ida will be sending the sample from the EU) You must register here or your comment will not count. (We are sending one sample if it is EU). To be eligible, please comment upon what appealed to you in Ida’s review of Hiram Green Vivacious and where you live. Do you have a favorite Hiram Green Perfume? Draw closes July 4, 2020
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