Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber courtesy of the brand
Artisanal perfumer Justin Frederico might be an unfamiliar name to many readers. I hope to amend that, if it rings true. Many of us have come to know and love Creative Director Nir Guy’s line of Perfumology fragrances – all five of them. The nose behind each of these is Justin Frederico. Justin is a marvelous collaborator (we’ve worked together on many projects over the past four years), and the time has now come for him to step into the spotlight as the consummate professional he is. To this end, Justin has recently released his own brand: Frederico Parfums. His inaugural fragrance foreshadows delights yet to come: Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber is a transcendent white floral amber which trails a sensual, diffusive honeyed warmth and is timelessly tender.
Catherine Frederico (founder) and Justin Frederico (Co-founder and perfumer)
Justin Frederico’s resume alone would astonish you: he holds a post-doctoral degree from Columbia University in synthetic organic chemistry, and has worked for such renowned fragrance houses as Givaudan and IFF throughout the span of his lengthy career. He’s a whiz with a gas chromatograph (just ask him how many he owns!) – but it’s his own nose which is a cherished possession. As a perfumer and chemist Justin has done the heavy lifting behind the scenes for others for so many years; it is time for him to create according to his own desires without externally imposed constraints.
Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber photo courtesy of the brand
Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber is nothing if not plush – but it’s plush without being ponderous. This fragrance reveals an underlying essential romanticism which dwells within the perfumer’s heart. Several critical elements converge seamlessly as the effervescent introduction of mandarin and orange facets evoke a lighthearted, breezy disposition. This airiness segues into a voluptuous honeyed heart garlanded with a trio of white blossoms – lily of the valley, jasmine and neroli – and just enough lavender to temper sweetness and contribute its lovely plaintive herbal/floral voice to Blooming Amber’s floral chorale. Blossoms float gauzily upon a velvety base of gossamer amber, musk, vanilla and moss graced by polished patchouli and a cashmere note which is diffusive, somewhat spicy, woody and muskily powdery. Arrayed in elegant and unmistakable sillage, Blooming Amber possesses impressive longevity and tenacity.
Ida and Justin Frederico at the launch of Perfumology Clutch at Perfumology, November 18, 2018, photo by Nir Guy of Perfumology
For those who are cautious about indolic perfumes, rest assured that neither the jasmines nor the honey read as overtly animalic; those touches are appropriately subtle. I’ve had my bottle for about six months, and it has deepened to the point where its drydown has become even richer: I notice a gourmand quality which resembles a butterscotch caramel without excessive sweetness. Blooming Amber is beautifully balanced and has wings enough to take flight combined with sufficient gravitas to be taken seriously.
Stock photo bee
Delicious as its taste of honey may be, the perfumer has given us no flighty fragrance. I perceive Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber as a welcome addition to anyone’s collection; it is marvelous all year ‘round – and encourages the wearer to view amber perfume from another point of view – namely, that of the bee.
Notes: mandarin, orange, honey, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, lavender, neroli, amber, musk, vanilla, cashmere, patchouli, green moss
Bottle provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Frederico Parfums, we are offering a 50 ml. Flacon of Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible, REGISTER HERE and please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber based on Ida’s review. Draw closes October 29, 2022 and the winner will be announced within ten days after.
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