DIS- | disconnection through design, image, and scent

 An excerpt from DIS- The book. Credits Francesco Romero. disconnection

 An excerpt from DIS- The book. Credits Francesco Romero.

A night downtown in Parma, in the last days of what we will remember forever as the summer between two lockdowns, I felt blessed for being able to dine with a dear friend, which probably is going to be the only shared moment together this year. To meet after such a longtime and not to hug,  to talk or to kiss -to smile with our eyes only behind a mask feels so emotional there is a lump in my throat. Disconnection is something we all experienced lately this year, for better or worse, and despite being more and more virtually connected through social media, this pandemic surely taught us human contact is essential.  Some took this separation very hard even reaching the deepest depth of depression. Some others  handled it differently and much has been said on how to turn isolation into an opportunity to put order in one’s life, to improve themselves or at least to learn something new.  “We’ll be better when we’ll be out of this” many said. Hopefully.

 DIS-connect limited edition perfume

 DIS-Connect 3x30ml edt, limited edition

Arts and passions have been crucial to make sense out of disconnection, and scents are no exception for perfume lovers, keeping us good company during the confinement. The dear friend I met in Parma last September is Francesca Gotti and I was really glad that night she introduced me to such a meaningful project called DIS-. The DIS-connect project started in 2019 with only the concept itself: Disconnection. It resonated with the creative trio formed by Francesca Gotti, Francesco Romero and Omer Ipekci (whom I first met in 2019 at Pitti Fragranze). They talked to each other extensively about something, without resorting to words. The only agreed upon concept was disconnection. With barriers of distance, language, medium and confusion between them, the message dissolved and three products emerged.

Halfway through the collaboration, they have experienced a disaster on a global scale, demonstrating their state of connection without a word. Disconnected from nature, from each other, and from reality. They have collectively and personally experienced their unavoidable connection to each other. They have experienced isolation on a global scale, they have faced their needs, wants and addictions.

Behind their personal filters, cultures, identities and differences, they have experienced what they have all experienced. DIS- is a personal reflection through scents, images and design of this absence.

DIS-connect Decay, Concrete and Paradox perfumes of disconnection

 DIS-Connect 1-2-3: Decay, Concrete and Paradox

Three conceptual scents were created by Omer Ipekci (a self-taught Turkish perfumer also behind the brand Pekji) for the collaboration. Rather than being escapist portals of fantasy, they frame the mundane reality that escapes our attention.

Disconnection DIS- Francesco Romero

 Decay. Credits Francesco Romero

Inspired by Francesco’s first image that I named ‘decay’, accompanied by Trail of Tears by William Basinski. This is not the easiest scent to wear, but like most smells that betray our nature I keep going back to smell it. An earthy, musky, floral and a disturbingly familiar mix of synthetic and natural.

Decay explores amber is all its most Mediterranean warmth featuring a thick labdanum as its centerpiece. The resin in exalted in its comforting, edible licorice facets by saffron and vanilla, yet a primal roaring earthiness hides under the surface with the furry blanket of costus, the leathery bite of castoreum and the aromatic insolence of angelica root echoing the bittersweet balance of Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan set against a memory of the last intimate human embrace.

Notes for Decay include: Angelica root absolute, costus root co2 extract, synthetic saffron, synthetic jasmine, castoreum, vanilla, plastic accord

Disconnection in the age of the pandemic

Concrete. Credits Francesco Romero

Inspired by Francesco’s second image that I named ‘concrete’, accompanied by Infinite Abstract by Truffaz &Murcof. This one is diaphanous and actually pleasant to wear. Substantial but invisible at will, like the ubiquitous pillars of our collective culture.

Concrete is a set on a bubbling baking soda pillar of high-octanes violets,  a cross between garage and kitchen, redolent of the peculiar smell of methyl octine carbonate, a molecule fans of vintage Christian Dior Fahrenheit (Jean-Louis Sieuzac) remember well (that’s why probably is my favorite in the trio). Here it is emphasized by a sous-bois layer of mossy woods, moist bark scattered in little white fluorescent mushrooms.

Notes for Concrete include:  violet, lily-of-the-valley, galbanum, mushroom alcohol, ozone, sheer woods, musk

Paradox from the DIS- collection

Paradox. Credits Francesco Romero

Inspired by Francesco’s third image that I named ‘paradox’, accompanied by Stave Peak by Loscil. It’s linear, textured and monolithic and even though it’s the shortest formula, it took the most tries to get right. Deep, dark, heavy notes juxtaposed by brilliant notes.  For me it’s the scent of departure.

Paradox is the most conceptual concoction of the trio, something definitely closer to a multimedia piece of art rather that to fine perfumery. From the very first smoky swirls of burnt woods unfold. A minty, metallic greenery, along with a vegetal humor redolent of overripe tomatoes and matte leaves are sprinkled in dust and decay. The total disconnection is completed.

Notes for Paradox include: Nagarmotha, geranium, camphor, patchouli, vetiver, iris, ozone

Dis- book by Francesco Romero

 DIS- The book. 82 images / 128 pages

Former musician, photographer and perfume writer, Francesco Romero created the DIS- book showcasing DIS-connection through images. Sometimes playful, sometimes disturbing and often absurd, the relationship between humanity and nature is played out in 82 images. Inside the gleefully pink cover, bags, balloons, tires, cars, buildings become alien traces of humanity in Francesco’s signature scenes of desolation. The book is limited to 200 pieces.

DIS- The book by Francesco Romero for DIS-Connect is a limited edition to 200 copies disconnection

 DIS- The book by Francesco Romero for DIS-Connect is a limited edition of 200 copies

Drawing from her own perception of isolation and disconnection, the designer Francesca Gotti (former creative director of One of those and pack designer for Rubini Profumi) designed and created the objects and packaging for the collaboration.

DIS- connect box. Limited edition of 30 pieces designed by Francesca Gotti

DIS- Connect box. Limited edition of 30 pieces

The Dis-connect box is a house made out of Glebanite©, a compound material from recycled fiberglass and holds the three scents behind a window. This icon of isolation, complete with a big roll of paper is limited to 30 pieces. Signora Gotti also created Dis-proof, an object to be stored and never exhibited. The archival prints of the three photos by Francesco Romero that served as a starting point for the project and the initial sketches of the three scents made by Omer Ipekci inspired by these photos are placed inside a double glazed window.

– DIS-Connect box housing the fragrant trio Decay, Concrete and Paradox

DIS-Connect box housing the fragrant trio Decay, Concrete and Paradox

More information about DIS- can be found at www.dis-website.com

This article is based on samples of DIS-connect perfumes trio kindly provided by Francesca Gotti of DIS-. My opinions are my own.

Ermano Picco, Editor

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @magnificent @disconnect_box @francesca.gotti @alfarom70 @omer_pekji

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7 comments

  • This sounds like it would be a much more interesting concrete interpretation than the disappointing CDG take! Love.

  • Daniel Fisher says:

    I love the idea of making something to never be used, existing solely in the hearts and minds of those who would seek to unravel its mystery. It’s this sense of yearning for something unattainable. Really thoughtful piece and I’d love to see it in exhibition!

  • This is a truly innovative concept and should go some way to restoring the faith of jaded fragrance enthusiasts, that there is indeed still lots of creativity in the industry.
    It’s like a supergroup! The bloody olfactory Travelling Wilburys or something?
    I was already a big fan of Francesco’s artwork as well as his blog and no none sense writing and reviewing of fragrances. Omer has a genuinely unique spirit to his fragrances and is constantly striving for artistic satisfaction, not just releasing to stay relevant or whatever, huge respect for him. I’m not familiar with Francesca but the packaging looks great and dovetails into the other two contributors work.
    I love this project.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    This is so interesting! I knew there would be some great art to come out of this pandemic. I love the multifaceted approach to this project. Thanks for sharing!