AI-generated image for Francesca Bianchi Encounters by Nicoleta©

When trying to describe Francesca Bianchi’s perfumes to others, the visual that most often came to my mind was that of the circles from “Arrival” –  a movie that was released in 2016 around the time I first discovered her perfumes. The SF movie directed by Denis Villeneuve has the story centered on an alien species, called Heptapods, who had a very different perception of time compared to humans, and this fundamental difference was reflected in their written language. Unlike linear human scripts, the Heptapod’s language was composed of intricate, circular symbols, representing entire sentences and these circles were palindromic, with no discernible beginning or end, reflecting the Heptapods’ nonlinear perception of time.

Arrival movie still Denis Villeneuve 2016 via Imdb

All of Francesca Bianchi’s fragrances seem to possess a nonlinear, circular quality. When they touch the skin, they don’t merely unfold in the traditional olfactory pyramid – but instead, they radiate outwards, with spikes and valleys, in all directions, enveloping you in a sensory experience that feels both familiar and completely new. And might I add, also strangely alive. And just as the imaginary language used in the movie, Bianchi’s fragrances defy the conventional structures of scent, immersing the wearer in an olfactory narrative that feels both ancient and futuristic, deeply personal and also universally human.

AI-generated image of patterns with fleur de lys by Nicoleta©

A (quite disputed) linguistic hypothesis, Sapir-Whorf, states that the language you speak determines how you think, ultimately affecting your perception of the world. So, learning a new language is not just about words, it’s about understanding new cultures, ways of life, and perspectives, just like adding new colors to your mental palette, broadening the way you see and understand the world. Today, Latin phrases or Chinese characters, for instance, find their way into the mainstream culture through tattoos, and for many, it’s not always about comprehending the full depth of these words or characters but embracing them as a form of aesthetic expression or symbolic resonance. It’s a reflection of humanity’s timeless fascination with “the other”, and the endless quest to weave the unfamiliar into the fabric of the familiar. And why would not this stand true also for the silent language of liquid emotions?

Francesca Bianchi courtesy of the perfumer

Francesca quotes “the fascination of contaminations” as the genesis for Encounters: “I have always been fascinated by contaminations from different cultures, giving birth to new forms – called syncretistic, eclectic: to me, a new deviant marvel. I remember my enchantment for the exotic and mysterious Pseudo-Arabic scripts in the halos of some Renaissance paintings focused on a quintessential character of Christian culture and yet contaminated by a reference to the Arabic culture.”

Collage with details from the following paintings: Giotto Madonna and Child, Lorenzo di Niccolo St Paul and Gentile da Fabriano Adoration of the Magi 

In the heart of the European Renaissance, a peculiar artistic trend emerged: the incorporation of what looked like Arabic script into paintings, especially in the halos of religious figures or on the trappings of saints. This script, which came to be known as Pseudo-Kufic, wasn’t actually Arabic. Instead, it was a European interpretation or representation of Arabic, inspired by the art and artifacts that made their way to Europe via the complex web of trade routes and cultural exchanges. The Renaissance was a period of rebirth, rediscovery, and an immense fascination with the ‘other’, as the Crusades had, over the centuries, introduced Europe to the rich tapestry of Islamic culture, art, and science and as a result, Islamic influence pervaded many facets of European life. However, it wasn’t just a mere decorative choice, as incorporating these scripts was a conscious decision to invoke a touch of the divine mysticism associated with the East.

“Where East meets West: the fascinating point of contact between different cultures, where diversity produces a new language.  Iconic materials from East and West – Oudh and Iris – blended into a new mysterious and voluptuous creature. I wished to render this obsession of mine with Encounters, thanks to a combination of two iconic ingredients from East and West, Iris and Oudh – a moment of contact from whom a new creature originates. You will find the sophisticated refinement of Iris butter, with its soft and mysterious powderiness; a material which develops in the soil to then generate the most lyric among flowers. And you’ll find Oudh, a material born out of an infection of the Aquilaria trees, which then produces one of the most mesmerizing and complex odors in the perfumery range of ingredients.”

AI generated still life painting with ingredients from Francesca Bianchi Encounters by Nicoleta©

Being a long-time Francesca lover, I sense there is a new olfactive direction, starting with Byzantine Amber – that I have reviewed in detail, here.  Her fragrances have always been complex, and profoundly human, and felt like intimate letters, whispered secrets from one soul to another. But with her recent work, I feel a palpable shift, as if Francesca isn’t just detailing the personal odyssey anymore, but is also painting the vast backdrop against which these personal stories unfold. It’s as if she both choreographs the dance and sets the stage, presenting not just individual journeys but the grand tapestry of our shared human experience. And seen through the eyes of an art historian, this journey she is taking us on is absolutely breathtaking.

To me, Francesca Bianchi Encounters picks up the story in the new saga that started with Byzantine Amber, zooms out to a grand perspective, and re-writes the story through the eyes of the other.  An encounter between two worlds, where, I can sense Francesca’s attentive eye, placing the first pin on the map in Western Europe, zooming in to the city of Florence. There, we see the symbol of the city fluttering on Florence’s flag, tied to the red stings of time, all the way back to the Roman Empire, in 59 BC, amidst the festivities honoring the Roman goddess Flora. Then, the map rotates even further to the west, to the Fleur de Lys adorning the banners of French Kings ever since the 12th century.  Another pin falls to the map, to the southeast of Asia, then draws near to the Middle East, where the deep aroma of oud unfurls, the liquid gold with smoky veins that spreads its intense and complex roots all throughout the distant lands.

AI-generated image mood image by Nicoleta for Francesca Bianchi Encounters

I close my eyes and imagine the chords of a Renaissance lute, on a bright morning in a Florentine piazza. The smell of honeyed citrus fruits fills the crisp air of the morning and the soft wind of the spring moves aside the white curtains of the palazzo, where a woman in a flowing gown looks up the window. But as the lute’s melody continues, it subtly morphs and deepens. The sunlit piazza transforms into a bustling Middle Eastern souk at dusk. The tune has now seamlessly been picked up by the deeper tones of a traditional oud lute, filling the air with the depth and mystery of a desert night. The scent of spiced woods, resinous amber, and smoky incense wafts through the atmosphere, intertwining with the sultry breeze that carries stories of ancient caravans and legendary tales. The pallazo’s white curtains become draped tapestries with intricate patterns, and our Florentine lady is now a mysterious figure, cloaked in embroidered silks, drawing you into a world filled with dangerous shadows, where time melts and boundaries blur.

AI-generated image by Nicoleta for Francesca Bianchi Encounters

Francesca Bianchi Encounters is a warm, carnal, and enveloping interpretation of iris, sculpted with Francesca’s trademark flair. It’s an ever-revolving narrative loop, seamlessly weaving tales of disparate worlds into an ouroboros that shifts from the powdery royal coldness of iris to its creamy and makeup-ish hedonistic frivolities. There are notes of ripe oranges, bergamot, and a touch of lavender that make for a welcoming and beautifully rounded first act, full of light and sweetness. As the plot thickens on your skin, resins, woods, and spices nod to darker things to come and the deus ex machina beast soon makes its appearance – all sleek furs, pointy fangs, and tensed muscles. But Francesca beautifully escalates the crescendo of danger and raw sensuality from the animalics and oud, and so masterfully puts them into context, that Encounters is far from being – finger quotes in the air – a “difficult” fragrance.

AI-generated image by Nicoleta©

A voluptuous and dirty iris,  Francesca Bianchi Encounters is an olfactive exercise in syncretism, with two old worlds that could not have been more different, meeting and melding into a beautiful new form. It’s a fragrance that challenges linear perceptions, a silent reminder that our stories, no matter how distinct or far apart in time and space, are inevitably interconnected, as the end is but the beginning, and the journey is an endless, mesmerizing dance.

Made for those born to sweet delight and for those born to endless nights too. A must-try for both indie-arthouse iris lovers and action-adventure blockbuster fans of oud.

Main accords: Bergamot, Orange, Cassis, Lavender, Coriandre, Iris Butter, Rose, Angelica, Cinnamon, Ambergris, Castoreum, Oudh, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Benjoin, Peru Balsam

Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

Disclosure: A bottle of Encounters was kindly offered by the brand, opinions are my own.

Francesca Bianchi Encounters Official brand image

Thanks to the generosity of Francesca Bianchi Perfumes we have a 30 ml bottle of Encounters for one registered reader in the EU, US, or UK.  You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s review and where you live. Draw closes 10/18/2023

Francesca Bianchi was the recipient of  Michelyn’s Best of Scent Artisans 2019

Also, check out the reviews for: The Lover’s Tale, Etruscan Water, Luxe, Calme, Volupte, Byzantine Amber

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