Esxence 2019 Collage by Michelyn
Esxence is always abuzz with activity: a teeming hive of bloggers, vloggers, journalists, photographers, perfumers, creative directors, distributors, passionate perfumistas – name one, come all. CaFleurebon is in its 8th year as an Official Media Sponsor, and Esxence 2019 was Sr Editor Ida Meister’s first “official” reporting (although she has visited before but by no means was she unrecognized, she was stopped by many associates/friends/perfumers).
CaFleureBon Michelyn Camen, Ermano Picco and Ida Meister April 25, 2019 photo Ermano
This is the first year in my five years that I felt overwhelmed and underwhelmed at the same time (that is Michelyn since Ida is too polite to say so). No matter how hard we tried we could not get to every booth or attend every event, although we did our best to smell what’s new or about to be released, exploring the ever-burgeoning cornucopia of nascent lines, sitting in on as many panels, discussions, lectures as possible. The big difference this year was the amount of “vloggers” (note Sebastian Jara of Smelling Great, our Editor has been attending for several years and always with grace; he is not part of this, nor are the majority of video fragrance reviewers we met there). While there is room for everyone, one has to grumble when you cannot make your appointment because there is an ”influencer” cordoning off the narrow aisles, not everyone but a few. One or two brought their own highly-visible entourage complete with groupies, press, videographers, photographers and heaven knows what else. Someone had to say it, so we did. It did however galvanize the blogging community and we hope the fragmentation of how we present fragrance, via the written word or video will play nicer in the near future. There’s room for everyone. Let’s unite not fight.
.At breakfast for the launch of Michael Edwards new book photos by Lucasz of Chemist in the Bottle and Clayton at Esxence 2019
We were a tag team and each other’s shadows and went to the same booths, which might be why we agreed on so many of the new releases and discoveries. We would like to take a stab summarizing some of the patterns/trends we noted as well as the stellar stuff which stopped us in our aromatic tracks. Please bear in mind that this is in no way intended to be complete, but a representation of what we smelled only. With two hundred booths, we only made it to less than half in three days.
Carthusia Tuberosa
The return of pretty perfumes: a renewed interest in what smells lovely and is wearable, for one aspect. Many fragrances we sampled were outright fetching and appropriate for wear in several settings, making them a good go-to: prime example, the latest Carthusia by Luca Maffei, Tuberosa. It’s as happy as it can be, non-mentholated, sparkling, amiable.
Olfative Studio Iris Shot, Rose Shot and Violet Shot photo Ermano
Sophisticated Soliflores: aka glamorizing the single note/ingredient conceptually, often much more challenging than ‘mixed bouquets’ or other fragrance categories.The rose shone via myriad depictions: Hiram Green’s glorious Lustre; Maître Jean-Claude Ellena’s brilliant oeuvre for Perris Monte Carlo, Rose de Mai; Olfactive Studio’s Rose Shot; Masque Milano Love Kills – to name but a few.
Perris Monte Carlo Arancia di Sicilia, Jasmin du Pays and Rose de Mai
Then there are other solo voices: from Perris Monte Carlo, Jasmin de Pays by Jean Claude Ellena, Perris Monte Carlo Arancia de Sicilia (sweet orange) by Gian Luca Perris, the fourth in the Italian Collection, and Olfactive Studio’s Violet Shot, Iris Shot, and Rose Shot.
photo:Nishane
Musk as soliflore: Rania J. Musc Moschus, Nishane’s exquisite Muskane by Christian Carbonnel (Saints preserve us, this is perfection for Ida), Essential Parfums The Musc (Calice Becker), the upcoming Maurice Roucel collaboration Musc Panache for Maison Rebatchi (the working title at this present writing). Skin musks are everywhere you look, whether they explore fruity, floral, spicy or fleshy aspects.
Photo Ida© Riviera Lazuli, Pomelo Riviera and Riviera Drive
Fragrance as Escape: Atelier des Ors fêtes the Riviera in its latest collection housed in cobalt glass with gold flakes swimming like exotic fish, Simone Andreoli breathes life into Italy with his Diario Olfattivo, and Martine Micallef envelops us in the blossoms of Grasse with her new Botanique Collection.
Beso Bendito, Beso Canalla, and Beso Negro- From sun-up to sundown
Master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, too, evokes his beloved Grasse via Perris Monte Carlo Rose de Mai and Jasmin de Pays. Luxuriate on Beso Beach, a new brand collaboration with Carner Barcelona or travel to Greece via Menditerrosa Ithaka.
Goldfield and Banks Velvet Splendour
Indigenous ingredients: Goldfield and Banks (Dimitri Weber) is a prime example, using Australia’s native golden wattle (mimosa originated in the Antipodes) as star player in its newest release Velvet Splendour. Simone Andreoli celebrates Amalfi’s lemon, Sardinia’s fig, and Sicilian almond pastry.
Michelyn and Olivier Durbano who reminded her to breathe when it became overwhelming
Grasse parades its jasmine, roses, mimosa, and gardens. And of course Olivier Durbano who has moved to Grasse continues to be a scent beacon and artist amongst all else.
Oud as accompaniment: more recently, oud seems to play nicely with others as opposed to being the star performer – although there are many exceptions to the rule. If you want Big Oud, it’s easy to locate – just follow your nose.
Clayton© Maison Rabatchi
Small companies utilizing big name perfumers: a very astute move on the part of perfume houses. Essential Parfums (Bruno Jovanovič, Antoine Maisondieu,Sophie Labbé, Calice Becker, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto) P.S. the new vanilla has Michelyn patiently waiting for its 2019 late release. Maison Rebatchi (Maurice Roucel, Karine Chevallier, Bertrand Duchaufour, Randa Hammami, Aliénor Massenet), Beso Beach (Olivier Cresp, Annick Menardo, Christophe Raynaud).
Nishane Ani and Nefs via Ermano
We adored: Perris Monte Carlo Jasmin du Pays (Ida’s dream jasmine) and Arancio di Sicilia (Nishane Muskane and Ani (Cecile Zarokian, from the No Boundaries collection which tells the tale of war and hopes to heal Armenian and Turkish people; ANI also means “memory” in Turkish and during the creation process of the scent, Cem Karabacak, the beloved friend of the creators of NISHANE passed away. NISHANE dedicates this scent to the loving memory (ANI) of Cem Karabacak); Goldfield and Banks Velvet Splendour; Rania J Musc Moschus and M. Micallef Fleur Lumière, which smelled so good on Michelyn someone stole her sample out of her bag!.
Hiram Green Luster
We continue with Simone Andreoli’s Diario Olfattivo Fico Nero di Segna; Olfactive Studio’s Iris Shot; Santi Burgas Primal Waters [T] TDM – Torroella De Montgrí…
We will be reviewing many individually so bear with us as we just want to do credit to these fantastic fragrances.
preview of Antonio Alessandria 2019 perfume Ermano© based on a “clerical theme”
Antonio Alessandro’s new mystery perfume (as yet unnamed, but it’s gorgeous!) has both of us under its spell as does Art and Olfaction winner 2019 artisan Hiram Green’s Lustre, which even rose dissenter Michelyn loved. Think what he did with Hyde… he does with the rose.
Like a Jewel is based on Freddie Mercury from top to bottom notes.
Best Releases at Esxence 2019: Perris Monte Carlo’s Jean-Claude Ellena soliflores captivated both of us. Michelyn agrees and add Masque Milano Kintsugi, Aether Arts Suprae (synthetic exploration of patchouli using an overdose of Akigalawood – a Givaudan capture), Etat Libre D’Orange Experimentum Crucis by Quentin Bisch , Homoelegans Like a Jewel whichexplores Freddie Mercury from top to bottom notes (Luca Maffei) and Nishane Nefs, a modern oriental that wins best presentation from Michelyn. This is an Oriental that is boozy, with touches of honey, fig and florals.
Great New Discovery: Plumage Parfums inspired by different birds of paradise (we saw Bertrand Duchaufour at the booth and he is the perfumer for some)
Roberto Dario DFG 1924 and Ida
Wonderful line new to Ida: DFG 1924, perfumes composed by Roberto Dario (Ida’s innamorati are Il Sentiero degli Dei – a talismanic veil of musky iris cedarwood which feels holy – and Il Risveglio delle Esperidi, a plenitude of juicy citrus and white flowers which make me swoon.
Much missed: The visionary Vero Kern. There was a memorial for her friends the day we left back to NYC. Our hearts are with Sarah Colton who could not attend Esxence 2019 for personal issues.
Santi Burgas Primal Waters photo Ida
Thanks to many perfumers and Houses (most represented here) who generously gave us extra samples of over 30 fragrances that were introduced or exhibited at Esxence 2019 we have a draw for a registered CaFleureBon reader for the EU, USA and Canada for a lovely gift bag of new or soon to be released perfumes from Esxence 2019. To be eligible please leave a comment with which of the fragrances sound interesting to you, where you live. Draw closes 5/10/2019
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume
Please read our friend Lucasz from Chemist in The Bottle first impressions
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @idameister @magnificent @a_nose_knows @lookfeelsmellgreat @clayton_wmssl @danu_sf