Geza Schoen photo Anatol Kotte
In 2005, perfumer Geza Schoen (Geza Schön) changed the olfactory landscape with his introduction of Escentric 01 and Molecule 01. Over the past (soon to be thirteen) years, I have interviewed Geza Schoen numerous times for ÇaFleureBon as well as for other publications. If anyone would have asked me that “Iso E Super in a bottle” would become one of the most well-known niche fragrances in the world back then, I would have been skeptical. Geza told me how it all happened, and it was happenstance. He was testing ingredients in his lab and just dabbed on Iso E Super before going clubbing. Women were attracted to the scent, which was pheromonal and asked where they could buy it. In his own words:
“well the initial moment of it all to happen was in autumn 1990. I had just smelled Iso E Super for the first time at Haarmann and Reimer (now Symrise) when I realised that there is some olfactory magic in that stuff. So I gave it a friend of mine to wear on a Friday night and we went to our hometown bar and just stood around for a few minutes when this young woman showed up in front of us saying : “who smells so nice here“ – I then spoke to her and explained what it was, she mentioned that she was in love with Fahrenheit and Tresor, two completely different fragrances yet they both had a big chunk of Iso E Super in its formula, Fahrenheit 25%, Tresor 20% – the link was quite obvious herewith.” -Geza Schoen
His fragrances (for his own brands or for other commissions, which include Ormonde Jayne 4 Corners of The Earth, Clive Christian, Diesel, Boudicca Wode amongst others) have a signature that is uniquely his. I learned of the new additions to the Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M+ Collection on February 13, 2023 but wanted Geza Schoen to speak directly to his latest creations, Escentric Molecules M + Ginger, Black Tea and Guaiac Wood (brand extensions of 2021’s Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M+ Iris, Patchouli and Mandarin) all based on one of the most game changing perfumes of the past 20 years, Molecule 01. Take it away Geza–Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + courtesy of Escentric Molecules
About Escentric Molecules M +“Molecule + is all about match-making. It’s about taking this phenomenal molecule, Iso E Super and discovering how a single fragrance accord creates a whole new sexual chemistry. I have two rules of engagement for Molecule +. First, only one fragrance accord is matched with Molecule 01 for each fragrance. Second, the partner is a natural since the complexity of a natural plays best against the simplicity of the molecule. Molecule + Ginger pairs Molecule 01 with a top note, Molecule + Black Tea with a heart note, and Molecule + Guaiac Wood with a base note. Molecule + is perfumery deconstructed. You don’t need dozens of ingredients to make a great fragrance. In fact, the opposite is true. Minimalism brings clarity.” -Geza Schoen
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Ginger courtesy of Escentric Molecules
On Escentric Molecules Molecules 01 M + Ginger: “What’s striking about ginger is how it combines freshness and spiciness in one ingredient. I’ve always loved that, when I smelt this new ‘ginger oil fresh’ from the Ivory Coast, I knew I had to do Molecule + Ginger. It’s so clean, so pure, with a sharp effervescent quality that plays beautifully in the landscape of Molecule 01.”-Geza Schoen
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Black Tea courtesy of Escentric Molecules
On Escentric Molecules Molecules 01 M+ Black Tea: “There’s not only one black tea in the world. I wanted to bring out the various facets of this complex aroma to make my own accord using an extract of black tea as an infusion together with a maté tea absolue. What I love about black tea is its subtlety. The way the airiness plays against the earthiness and the bitter, fresh notes play against the floral aspect, all with a light touch.” -Geza Schoen
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Guaiac Wood courtesy of Escentric Molecules
On Escentric Molecules M Molecules 01+ Guaiac Wood: “Guaiac wood has the smokiness and aromatic quality of a great whisky together with a creamy warmth. It has a gentle ‘cocooning around the fireplace in winter’ feel to it. It’s like emulsified smoke that melts into the Iso E Super to make a skin-scent that is super-sexy and erogenous.” -Geza Schoen
Video Editor Steven Gavrielatos review of Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Ginger, Black Tea and Guaiac Wood
Disclosure Steven and I both received bottles, opinions and copy our own.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Ginger, Black Tea and Guaiac Wood via the brand
To be eligible you must be a registered reader IN THE USA PLEASE STATE THIS. REGISTER HERE OR YOUR COMMENT WILL NOT COUNT. In addition, please let us know about what you enjoyed about STEVEN’S VIDEO AND MICHELYN’S AND GEZA SCHOEN’S INTRODUCTIONS, that you live in the USA and which you would like to win: Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Ginger or Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Black Tea or Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 M + Guaiac Wood. Draw closes 2/28/23 and will be announced within ten days thereafter. Have you worn Escentric Molecules Escentric 01 and Molecule 01 or M+ Iris, Patchouli, or Mandarin?
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