J’s image of Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 has always felt like a Donald Judd sculpture to me. One of his minimal block works made from mirror polished materials that have a distinct structure, but vanish into the space as they reflect their surroundings. Iso E Super or iso gamma super, Geza Schoen’s slightly tweaked version of the molecule as it’s rumoured to be, is intoxicating and whose scent seems to enhance your skins own aroma. Iso E Super has multiple facets; it’s cedary in a powdery way, as if the wood has been atomised into a fine musky dust cloud. There’s a hint of spicy warm with soft purr of amber, giving a thicker feel to the powderiness while pushing it closer to incense smoke, with subtle dark leathery facets making it feel calming, with a flirtatious wink. The closet real life experience I’ve had to it would be that intense smell of a sauna in Helsinki. Cedar wood heated into a powdery cozy steam, but much softer like a hug that wraps you in powdery velvet. It’s an experiential molecule whose views come in and out of focus as you wear it, similar to looking at Donald Judd’s sculptural works, a kind of invisible physicality capturing an elegantly minimalism.

 

Geza Schöen courtesy of the brand photo ©ANATOL KOTTE and Donald Judd, 100 untitled works in mill aluminum, 1982-1986. Permanent collection, the Chinati Foundation, Marfa, Texas. Photo by Douglas Tuck. Donald Judd Art © 2020 Judd Foundation.

 

The M + Series, now with six iterations M + Guaiac and M + Ginger being part of this second trilogy release with M+ Black Tea, feel like you are no longer alone with the Donald Judd work anymore, other artworks gives flashes of colour and tone as they pass over the mirrored surface, giving new shape to this minimalist form. Think Michael Craig-Martin’s object works reflected in the surfaces or  Hilma AF Klint’s spiritual paintings, bringing new angles of experience.

 

Michael Craig-Martin Eye of the Strom via IMMA and Hilma AF Klint Alter Piece No.1

Geza speaks of these three perfumes as one being a top note, M + Ginger, M + Black Tea as the heart and M + Guaiac Wood as the base. Having spent some time with only M + Black Tea it has me thinking that Herr Schoen might have hidden a layering combination in plain sight, so that when all three are layered a secret perfume is released? I say this because M+ Black Tea has shared elements of both the other two. He mentions in an interview with Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen that “Molecule + is perfumery deconstructed.” Maybe a little wink again at this hidden combination urging us to reconstruct? I’ll let that question linger as I remove my ‘Always Sunny Charlie’ hat and get back to minimal elegance of M + Black Tea, which is a beautiful composition in itself. One of my favourites from the M + series along with M + Iris.

 Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea

Molecule 01 + Black Tea Opens with blast of warm, slightly spiced citruses, bergamot with a slice of ginger giving a creamy smooth woody freshness swirled into that familiar aroma of black tea. Imagine wet wood being slowly heated, soft sweet citruses start to rise off its surface with cool cedar woods leaking through. It feels warm yet slightly astringent which is countered well with the sweeter almost floral aromas. There’s just a hint of bitterness that captures the taste of tea expertly as it stirred into an elegant cosy perfume. It feels airy and refreshing with a gentle earthiness, like lemon has been squeezed into black tea. Geza Schoen used his own black tea infusion which appears in the first half of M + Black Tea with a máte tea absolue working in the base, it s as if you drink it like a darker heavier tea, with subtle leathery notes, which whisper through this composition.

With the brighter citrus notes from the opening softening, more of the now contemporary classic Molecule 01 is revealed. It’s powdery velvety woodiness wraps you in an elegant cosy slight smoky musk that’s reminiscent of guaiac woods smokiness and gentle vanillic smoothness, it picks up more of the máte tea aroma too, facets of light dry hay and whispers of dry tobacco. M + Black Tea hums with a quieter ginger like spice also present in máte tea which adds to th ewarmth of the iso e super base. Again that image of a sauna returns as M + Black Tea wears like a soft steam from a teacup scents you, hovering above your skin. It feels soft and light to wear, but knowing the power of Molecule 01, this leaves a seductive scent trail wherever you go. Molecule 01 + Black Tea is cozy minimalism done to its finest, it’s a meditation on the beauty of simplicity. An utter joy to wear.

Notes: Iso E Super, Black Tea, Máte Tea Absolue.

Discloser: A bottle Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea was sent to J for review, his nose, thoughts and “theories” are his own.

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea courtesy of the brand

Thanks to amazing team at Escentric Molecules, we have a100ml bottle of Escentric Molecules M+ Black Tea for one registered reader in the UK or USA. Please be sure to register! To be eligible for the draw, please tell us where you live, what appeals to you about J’s review and “theory”, and your favourite fragrance by Geza Schöen. J is a big fan of Kinski.  Michelyn loves Steidl Paper Passion Draw closes 2/13/25

To purchase a sample or bottle at Jovoy Mayfair and Luckyscent

Please read one of Michelyn’s many interviews with Geza Schöen here

Karl’s review of M+ Ginger and M+ Iris. Please watch Video Contributor Steven Gavriolatos’s  Black Tea and Guaiac Wood and Ginger

Molecule 01 is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. More here.

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