J’s image of DSH Perfumes Bacchanal bottle

I’ve lost sleep staying up to watch Award Winning Dawn Spencer Hurwitz do her wonderful perfume sketching on Instagram lives. We’re in different time zones, but it’s always worth it as I’ve learned so much, albeit slightly abstractly as I don’t have access to all the materials she works with. So when she announced that she was releasing a limited edition “smell along box” for the creation of Bacchanal I jumped at the chance and ordered it as soon as it arrived on her Etsy store; that’s the store for those outside of America. 30 boxes where made, 15 with perfumers alcohol and 15 with IPM, it has a higher flash point so is safe to ship, its the same with her perfumes that come in voile rather than alcohol. The base notes tend to get more amplified with this carrier oil, so take that into account with my description later. I love her animalic creations so the more base the better.

Images of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz live sketching DSH Perfumes Bacchanal over the 4 weeks of the project. Images via@dshperfumes

Over four weeks we tuned in and sniffed materials along with Dawn as she created DSH Perfumes Bacchanal, a lush pastoral chypre. She’d explain her concept, process and how the materials were interacting with each other as she was blending. I’ve done some lectures via the Osmothèque with sniff along materials, but my French is how you say “merde”, I’ve also bought many other materials and a few perfumers have been generous enough to send me small amounts to explore, but some materials are hard to access, so these sprayable materials in the smell along box are amazing to have, especially for those who love oakmoss, as you get two versions to compare, the absolute and a synthetic version, Everlyn©, along one of Dawn’s own accords. Having the chance to smell materials in isolation is incredible, especially as they’re being described to you, having a perfume created in front of you, that’s a whole other experience, one that feels special. Bacchanal is of course stunning and it was on Michelyn’s top ten perfumes of 2023 and my Best in Scent List for 2023, I mean who doesn’t love an orgy?

 

Johan Dankerts, A Bacchanal circa 1648, private collection image via Wikipedia

 DSH Perfumes Bacchanal unfolds in a manner that befits its name, an all-indulging perfume opening like wine cascading down the creamy skin of another, consumed with unrestrained fervour out in the wilds of nature. It’s as if the grapes themselves are being plucked, peeled and squeezed, their aroma lingering in the air alongside the earthy green scent of vines and leaves. Creamy sandalwood notes are infused with a touch of tantalising green cassis spices, create a sinful yet enticing allure. Amidst the intoxicating blend, bergamot adds a refreshing touch, as a rich Armagnac accord emerges, with facets of crispness of green apples and succulent green figs, transforming Bacchanal into a decadent feast of boozy, luscious fruits. This is no ordinary revelry; it exudes a suave elegance, it’s a refined and creamy essence that conjures the sensation of cool, damp silk gliding softly against the skin. Bringing a touch of sophistication to the untamed and earthy sharpness of the green fruits; as the wine and Armagnac are savoured from the gently spiced crevices that eagerly embrace them.

 J’s DSH Perfumes Bacchanal Box IG livestream box no.1 IPM edition of 15

Coumarin permeates the Bacchanal, taming the spices allowing them gracefully mellow and dry. Slowly more pleasure unfurls, revealing the intoxicating aroma of hay upon which this extravagant debauchery of fruits takes place. It is a delightful blend of sweet and dank earthy hay, soaked in the excess of wine and other intoxicating pleasures preformed on it. Bacchanal dances upon the skin, caressing it with a velvety green softness, as the spices now exude a powdery and aromatic allure. From the hay delicate florals unfurl, blossoming with grace and beauty. Jasmine lends a voluptuous and slightly intoxicating aroma, reminiscent to the scent of crushed velvet, seducing the senses with a playful indolic purr. Once again, it unveils a soft yet tantalising blend of intimate spices, as the cool and creamy flesh bathes in delicious wine-soaked hay. Gradually, the hay and oakmoss take centre stage, as the bodies slow their passionate movements. A dark and mossy dampness emanates from this exquisite combination, giving the fragrance a decadent and opulent chypre-like quality. Yet, amidst the wild abandon, this bacchanal retains an air of elegance, reminiscent of a black-tie affair that has ventured into the realm of untamed desires.

The Triumph of Bacchus by Velasquez was an inspiration to Dawn when composing Bacchanal 

For those who still mourn the loss of oakmoss-heavy perfumes, this one’s for you, especially in its dry down. Surprisingly, only a small amount of oakmoss is needed in the composition to transport you to a woodland floor, where the intensity is deeply felt. It’s enhanced by the presence of Evernyl©, which brings forth a cool, powdery, spiced green snow that blankets a cold forest floor. There’s a slight funk of seaweed, a salty mix, with the sweet decay of green leaves, adding an intensity to the forest floor of covered mosses and patchouli. Coumarin dries things up a bit more, with faint whispers of that deliciously dirty, drunken hay, evoking memories of wild Bacchanal fun. It’s as if spilled wine has moistened this moss, creating a cool, creamy drunken sandalwood chypre, as if every last drop has been savoured. There’s a purring hint of labdanum, giving a subtle nod to leather and fun. Bacchanal is an exquisite vintage chypre that exudes the opulence of oakmoss and the intoxicating allure of boozy revelries; it is the epitome of a refined yet wild elegance. More wine please!

Notes: Bergamot, Blackcurrant bud, Fig,  Fig leaf, Grape leaf, Green grape, Red wine, White cognac, White grape, Hay absolute, Iris, Jasmine grandiflorum, Labdanum, Rose, Spices, Amyris, East Indian patchouli, Oakmoss.

Disclosure: The DSH Perfumes Bacchanal Box was purchased by myself with the sample kindly provided by the perfumer. Thoughts and nose my own.

J WeAreScentient Senior Contributor, Artist and perfume nerd.

J’s image of DSH Perfumes Bacchanal

Thanks to the largesse of DSH Perfumes, we may offer a 30 ml bottle of DSH Perfumes Bacchanal for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what piques your interest about Bacchanal based upon J’s review. Giveaway closes 1/30/2024

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