DER DUFT ACT (photographed by Cristian)
When it comes to deciding whether or not I love a fragrance, for reasons other than the essential answer to the question “Does it smell good?”, I pay close attention to the part of my mind that loves quality storytelling. Early on in my foray into the world of perfume, I noticed several habits I was developing involuntarily. Among these is the almost instinctual reaction of closing my eyes as I inhale as deeply as possible the scent I am trying to make sense of. And when I close my eyes, things get exciting! Images, sounds, music, colours, textures flash before my closed eyes, as if I were searching for the correct translation of that fragrance. Not unlike a slot machine of sorts landing on the perfect combination. And slowly, a story starts to reveal itself, woven by lived or borrowed experiences, extremely personal or shared ones.
The Dream, painting by Henri Rousseau
I described DER DUFT ACT as “citrus taxidermy”: it is animalic yet approachable, ferocious but somewhat harmless. Composed by Art and Olfaction 2 x Finalist (2017 and 2018) Prin Lomros, whose other creations caught me by surprise on several other occasions, DER DUFT ACT is a slightly dirty citrus scent, invigorating and just a touch “obscene”. And by that, I mean that the lime and the bitter orange are married with a generous amount of ambergris, musk and tobacco to present a fragrance that is succulent and mouth-watering while also bestial and offering up the perfect amount of funk. The vetiver and moss give it a cool, earthy backbone and they expand the harmonious kaleidoscopic olfactory landscape of this fragrance.
orange in hand (photographed by Cristian) mage 4
It has an exuberant opening, a lime that makes your mouth “weep”. It is green and vibrant, with some elusive floral notes. DER DUFT ACT smells like a perfectly clean and crisp shirt that you decide to put on after a long day’s work in the sun but before having a shower. Once the vegetal notes diminish in their vigor, the animalic makes the skin its territory. The exhilarating part of the storytelling starts here: in a citrus orchard at the time of harvest. Perched on a stepladder, a farmer in his late 40s is arduously picking fruit. He is rugged and burly. His hands have seen better days and his clothes are what you would call “work clothes”: stained, missing some buttons and ripped here and there. He is definitely a heavy smoker and his angular jaw is covered with a few days’ old stubble. You walk past him and you stop. A mix of citrus peel, tobacco and sweat take you aback. You want toin grab his hands, bring them cupped to your nose and take the deepest breath in that you ever took! Hard working, cigarette stained hands imbued with bitter orange oil and a few drops of sweat. That’s what this fragrance smells like to me!
DER DUFT ACT crane by Cristian
I included DER DUFT ACT in my ‘Olfactory Peregrinations’ collection and created one of my signature paper pieces directly inspired by it. I tried to translate it and to convey the story that it tells. By using a gradient of greens to yellows to browns, the intention was to reflect the evolution of the fragrance of skin. And circling back to gambling, I envisaged DER DUFT ACT as a round composition, mirroring a spinning Roulette wheel where the colours appear to be merging with one another and thus highlighting the exquisite blending of notes. Despite it being a citrus fragrance, I believe that DER DUFT ACT is not just a summer fragrance and that it would be a worthy companion no matter the weather.
Notes: Lime, Bitter Orange, Star Fruit, Vetiver, Ambergris, Cypress, Musk, Tobacco, Moss and Lavender
Disclosure: I purchased my own bottle and opinions are my own
Cristian Marianciuc – Contributor
detail of Cristian’s photo
Thanks to the generosity of Anselm Skogstad we have a 50 ml bottle of Act (120 Euros) for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. You must register here. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Cristian’s review of and where you live. Currently, Der Duft is not available in the USA, what boutique would you like to see carry the line. Draw closes 4/22/21
Please join us in welcoming Cristian as a Contributor!!
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @icarus.mid.air @der_duft @prinlomros
Read more about DER DUFT on CaFleureBon:
Ermano & Michelyn Camen: Best Fragrances of 2020
Deputy Editor Ida Meister: Grasse Review
Editor Nicoleta Tomsa: Cinematic Review
Editor Nicoleta Tomsa: Monopteros
Former Editor Elena Cvjetkovic & Editor Nicoleta Tomsa: 2020 Top Ten Fragrances
Former Editor Elena Cvjetkovic: Bubble Review
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
Like our Facebook page: Çafleurebon and use our blog feed for new updates and articles